QUADIFYRC MODS AND REVIEWS
  • RC Cars
  • Car of the Month
  • Quad Reviews
  • Quad Mods
  • COUPONS AND DISCOUNTS
  • Long Range
  • About & Contact

TIPS and TRICKS

IFLIGHT ADJUSTABLE FPV GOGGLE HEADSTRAP Review: My favourite strap for DJI FPV Goggles

24/11/2020

0 Comments

 
The iFlight FPV Goggle Headstrap is an adjustable length of elasticated material designed to make wearing FPV goggles more comfortable. It is suitable for both analogue goggles and DJI digital HD FPV goggles and includes the necessary mounting hardware. This review focusses on replacement for the DJI goggles but is also relevant for Fatshark, Skyzone and practically all other goggles as well.
Picture
In order fly FPV quadcopters we strap one or two monitors to our head with all the associated electronics and in some case batteries. This is quite a bit of weight so having goggles that are comfortable to wear for a long period of time is important. Straps are a key part of this and because most of the material investment for goggles (rightly) goes into the screens and receiver, the strap is typically neglected and are often inconvenient, uncomfortable or both. I knew when I purchased my DJI FPV goggles that the included strap was poor and that fitting and aftermarket strap was made difficult thanks to the closed loop clips on the DJI model which is why I was so pleased to hear the release of the iFlight fpv goggle headstrap that included new open loop clips especially to fit DJI goggles and at a reasonable price. To be clear this means that they include everything needed to fit to the dji goggles without cutting or trimming anything

Read More
0 Comments

How To build a quad for flying at night

28/7/2020

0 Comments

 
Currently where I live it is winter and so it gets dark early meaning I don't have as much time to fly my quad. On the other side of the world it is too hot to be outdoors during daylight hours. Should this limit us to simulators? Nope. I've got a build here that will allow you to see better at night and is very quiet so as not to upset the neighbours.
Picture
First of all the build needs to be based around a very light micro quad; 3 inches or smaller. This is because anything larger will make too much noise and will be travelling too fast to fly in you local neighbourhood and to avoid objects at night. Lightness (and the right choice of props) is key to making this quiet but more on that later.
How to see in the dark
Without putting to fine a point on it, it is the improvement in cameras that have made this build possible and practical: it used to be that the only good night cameras light the runcam owl were very large, even the more recent runcam eagle micro was too big for a lightweight quad. However now that we have the foxeer toothless nano 2 (and to a lesser extent the caddx baby ratel) we have MUCH better night vision. There are many good review on the toothless 2 nano at night, particularly the one by Nick Burns that I based this choice on. I've also included DVR from a day flight to show that even though you gain performance in low-light, it doesn't sacrifice daytime performance.
DVR Runcam nano 3 night
DVR Foxeer Toothless nano 2 night
DVR Foxeer Toothless nano 2 during an overcast day
You can simply slap this cam on an existing build and have a night flier as is but to really make it discrete to fly at anytime read on...

Read More
0 Comments

Mobula 6 upgrade: Ultralight lowrider

14/1/2020

6 Comments

 
Picture
​The Happymodel Mobula 6 is proving to be one of the most popular drones of early 2020 just like the mobula 7 in 2019. What makes it so successful? It is small, light and agile and fast enough given the power source. And, with the introduction of esc firmware capable of running at 48khz, it seems to offer the flight time.

Even though it’s a great quad as is, I always like to tinker to see what can be squeezed out. In my opinion it is the super light weight of the Mobula6 that makes it so good in all the parameters above, so how to make it better? Make it EVEN lighter.
For this particular mod I've chosen to remove the canopy and replace it with a lowrider camera mount which I must credit Chaotix from the micro motor community forum with. This was a mod to mount split aio cameras to before canopies were commercially available and offered the following advantages:
  • Cheap!
  • Light
  • No ducts in view
  • Very low profile (more on the advantages of this later)
I wanted to see if these benefits were still applicable today and so far as I can tell – yes they are.
Picture
First time I did this mod was on a silverised E011C with bolclash split cam about 2 years ago. This was well used and abused and still holding up
So how is it done?
Get a pack of zip ties (like these) that are at least 80mm long and 4mm wide. The smaller the zip mechanism the better. Use a new blade on a hobby knife to cut a slit along the length as below. The lens of the camera will be wedged in this slit and tightened at an angle that suits your flying.

Read More
6 Comments

Eachine Tyro79 Ultimate Final upgrade guide

18/12/2019

26 Comments

 
Picture
The Eachine Tyro79 is a low cost brushless high performance FPV quadcopter that is sold sold as a kit exclusively from Banggood. I have written a full review here and the popularity has prompted me to write this full and final upgrade guide after nearly a year of testing, tweaking and changing parts. Sadly my Tyro 79 has been lost in a dense bush area and I have not been able to recover so cannot share pictures of the upgraded on the quad. However, I have noted carefully what has worked for me and this is shared below split into the following systems:
  • FPV (camera, vtx, vtx antennas, goggles)
  • Motors and props
  • Electronics (flight controller, ESC)
  • Frame
  • Batteries
  • Control gear (receiver and transmitter)
  • Add ons
  • Betaflight
I'll make my strongest recommendations clear in each section and will recap in the summary as well.
FPV systems (Came, VTX, Antennas, Goggles)
I put this first as I think the most crucial improvements are here. Without mincing words the default camera is awful. Although it was working well for the first one or two flights you can see from this video below in slightly overcast conditions that it can be nearly impossible to fly.
The good news is that the tyro79 takes a standard micro 19mm camera and there are some good options available for not much money as below. This is the very first upgrade I would recommend.
Picture
Foxxer Arrow Pro Micro. Still my favourite bang for buck micro camera at less than $20 with a CCD sensor.
Picture
Caddx Ratel Micro. This CMOS cam has a massive sensor and excellent performance as a result. Can be had for as little as $25 on sale.
Picture
Foxeer Razer. The new budget cam from Foxeer with a CMOS sensor. Personally I prefer the Arrow but this is an option if you prefer CMOS

Read More
26 Comments

Simple, Effective MOds for the Sailfly-x and Red Devil

12/10/2019

4 Comments

 
Picture
The good and bad of the Sailfly-X and Red Devil
Happymodel have launched two of the better value toothpicks recently of which I have reviewed both - the Happymodel Sailfly and the Eachine Red Devil. Unfortunately both have minor niggles on the FPV side of things -
Picture
  • The Happymodel Sailfly-x is low on vtx power (25mw only) and the although good for an AIO camera/vtx it it has comparatively poor dynamic range. Also, you need to change canopy if you want to change camera angle
Picture
  • The Eachine Red Devil (made by Happymodel) has a better VTX which goes up to 200mW, a better camera in the Caddx EOS2 but the canopy is plagued by Jello and the camera is terrible at handling the image in low light conditions with peculiar red hues showing up at odd times.
The objective of the mods:
Since the underlying powertrain of these quads is light and effective I set out to improve the above issues while trying to stay as light as possible. Also, in order to keep things simple I wanted to avoid soldering where possible to provide an easy and cost effective upgrade path for those who wanted to emulate the build. The result? I'm super pleased:
Picture
Picture
Modded version weighs just under 39g
Picture
Sailfly-x minus 3d printed battery holder (plus rubber band) is just over 38g
Picture
Eachine Red Devil is closer to 39g with battery holder
Picture
LArva-x is quite a bit heavier due to slightly bigger motors, heavier frame and dvr on board

Read More
4 Comments

Happymodel Larva-X: Testing battery and propeller combinations

19/9/2019

8 Comments

 
Picture
PictureThe stock Larva X comes fitter with Emax Avan props and no battery
Introduction
That Happymodel Larva-x is a great value bind and fly ultralight toothpick-style quad which I reviewed and provided and improved tune for here. This is their first model to come without a battery which is due to the fact that many international shipping suppliers are banning lipo batteries from shipment. Stock propellers are the Emax Avan Rush 2.5 but due to supply issues HQ Prop 2.5x2.5x3 are also included as spares. My full review is here where I flew almost exclusively on the HQ 2.5x2.5x3, not because they were necessarily better but because they were less stiff and transmit less impact to what is a relatively weak motor (see my review for more details including a response from Happymodel).

If you're new here you'll find I'm never satisfied with status quo and like to tinker. Propellers and batteries are dispoable items so I've chosen to share the outcome of my tinkering with these. What I did find however is that this quad is very sensitive to these combinations and although some improvements can be had, there are also some very poor combinations that are inefficient and noisy with less than stellar performance.

Read More
8 Comments

Betaflight OSD settings not saving - how to fix

27/8/2019

2 Comments

 
Picture
Recently I've had a number of niggly issues with Betaflight OSD. When I switch to my favourite font (Digital in case you're asking) the save doesn't take on some of my quads. However since I could still add/remove and reposition elements of the OSD I never looked into troubleshooting because it wasn't worth my time. 

More recently though when I've switched cameras between quads (NTSC to PAL and vice versa) then I have lost my OSD altogether. The easy fix seemed to be to change the PAL/NTSC in betaflight but this didn't fix the issue. What I didn't realise is that these issue have the same root cause and the answer is surprisingly simple:
Picture
Changing between NTSC and PAL here did not save either, this was the cause of me loosing OSD altogether when incorrect

Read More
2 Comments

Balance charging for the Fatshark battery case: Mod Tutorial

16/8/2019

4 Comments

 
Picture
Recently I made my biggest ever FPV purchase - the Fatshark attitude V5 FPV goggles with the new 30 degree FOV OLED screens. I'm still field testing these for a review which will follow but first I wanted to look at the battery case, more to the point, how to fix the shortcomings.
Picture
Picture
The Fatshark 18650 battery holder comes with the Attitude V5 or can be bought separately
I love that you can use 18650 cells to power the goggles because lithium ion cells are much better suited to the task given their big capacity. The problem is that the battery holder has an incomplete balance connect meaning you cannot charge them. Since I don't have a dedicated 18650 charged I've modded my case so it can be charged safely using a regular balance charger. Note, the Fatshark 18650 battery holder can be bought separately here and can be used with any goggle.
In this tutorial I rectify this issue by showing you how to safely open the case and mod it to allow for real balance charging whilst losing noe of the rest of the functionality. With this mode you do not need a special charger for 18650 cells, you can use your regular balance charger and charge your pack safely and efficiently. If you need batteries a local vape shop will probably have the best prices but if not then I used these 3000mah ones that have been rebranded.
Tools needed
  • Craft knife
  • Small Philip-head screwdriver. This set looks good if you don't have one.
  • Soldering iron. I use the excellent TS100
  • Solder. This is fine
  • Flux (optional but recommended). I use this cheap stuff
  • An old battery-end balance lead. Or if you buy this one you won't need the extra wire below
  • Some extra 20-26 guage wire. This is cheap in 22AWG
See below how to complete the work. This took me about 30 minutes. Most of the time was to figure out the best path for the wire and make the path for it accordingly. As always, pictures can be embiggened
Picture
1. Remove the read sticker and then remove the 2 screws that were hidden behing  the sticker. Gentle pry the clips off to remove the cover as above
Picture
2. Slide out the battery connecting plate as above
Picture
3. Tin the battery connecting plate as above. Scrape where you wish to solder, use high heat and flux to make it easier
Picture
4. Solder on a 20-26AWG wire that is at least 10cm in length

Read More
4 Comments

How to fix Jello in the Diatone 2019 GT R239, R249, R249+ and R349 plus final PIDs

7/8/2019

2 Comments

 
Picture
The Diatone GT R249+ is my favourite traditional 2.5 inch micro quad based on it's relatively lightweight in this class, motors which have a wonderful mix of power and efficiency, reliable electronics and excellent built quality. My review of this quad is here and it is still available across multiple retailers.
However over a short period of time I started getting a lot of Jello which is concerning given the camera is a CCD which should be much more stable. I did a lot of PID and filter tuning but gave up after a while and let it sit on my shelf. Now I've come back to it with a fresh set of ideas and believe I have fixed the Jello problem once and for all. Firstly I can categorically state that in my case it was not the tune nor the propellers that fixed the issue as I've seen stated elsewhere. The issue is around the camera/VTX and this fix should be relevant to all canopy versions of this quad that doesn't use the TBS vtx i.e.​
Picture
GT R239 (2 inch plastic frame)
Picture
​GT R249 (2 inch carbon frame)
Picture
GT R249+ (2.5" carbon frame)
Picture
GT R349 (3 inch carbon frame)
What is the problem?
The problem is the way that the runcam TX200u vtx attaches to the camera. Although this is actually a very good clean vtx that is light and great for saving spaces it requires the manufactur to remove the screws that hold the camera lens housing to the sensor board and re-use these mount point to use longer collared screws that perform the same function as well as holding the vtx to the camera. What I think it happening is that this is compromising the solidity of the mount between the sensor and the lens housing thereby introducing vibration between these two units.
Picture
​Runcam tx200u  vtx
Picture
The screws that hold the vtx to the cam also hold the sensor board to the lens housing and I believe the connection between the board and housing is compromised as a result. At least the Caddx Turbo F2 has some foam tape between board and housing unlike the stock runcam swift although I don't believe a camera change is necessary.

Read More
2 Comments

Mobula 7 Upgrades: The Complete and Final List

23/7/2019

7 Comments

 
Picture
Picture
The Mobula7 can often be had for less than $80 ($74 at time of writing)
The Happymodel Mobula7 was probably my favourite quad of 2018 because it opened up a category that didn't meaningfully exist before - the power whoop... A quad that could be run indoors safely and was still very capable outdoors at a very sharp price point. If you haven't read it yet my original review is here. It has been a hit for newcomers to the hobby which is great too. It is of course not without it's faults like any other quad but it's benefits well and truly outweigh the disadvantages.
Over the time that I have owned this quad I have improved and customised this quad to overcome some of the initial shortcomings and improve on what already makes this great. I have written several articles on this and have summarised these here with links to the full article plus any other improvements I've since made. Practically all of these upgrades are relevant for the Eachine Trashcan as well (which I reviewed here)
Frame Upgrades
Picture
$2 e6000 glue
​My biggest disappointment with the very original mobula was the frame which was just not strong enough for 2s crashes especially in the cold weather that this is typically flown. In terms of a quick and easy fix I found that $2 e6000 glue from banggood made for cheap and effective repairs in this article here:

MOBULA 7 AND WHOOP FRAME REPAIR GLUE - E6000 FROM BANGGOOD
Picture
V3 frame (yes it was backward for a reason!)
Next I found that the v3 frame from the Eachine Trashcan which is definitely the strongest option and proved this through a lot of crashes and no damage to the frame. My article including instructions on the change to the V3 frame is here:
​
THE BEST FRAME FOR YOUR MOBULA 7
Since then I have found I prefer the V2 mobula frame which is the same design as the V1 but stronger (although not as strong as the V3). This is because I found it was easier to fit my favourite gemfan props and the overall flight characteristics were better, most notably decreased yaw washout compared to the V3. Note: the mobula7 v1 has been discontinued and all new mobulas ship with the V2.
Batteries​ and related upgrades

Read More
7 Comments

MOBULA7 UPGRADE: Betaflight 4, PIDS and Filters

17/6/2019

16 Comments

 
Picture
The Happymodel Mobula7 uses a F3 based flight controller and since Betaflight 3.4, these boards have not had full functionality of F4 and F7 boards due to smaller memory size for firmware storage. However in this article I will cover how to upgrade to the performance edition of Betaflight 4.04 kindly compiled by UAVTech (his in depth YouTube Channel is here). This special version adds the key performance functions at the cost of typically irrelevant features like servo control, acro trainer, camera control etc. In this article I will show you where to access this firmware and then I'll show you the filters that suit brushless whoops best as well as some good starting PIDs. 
This is the seventh and likely final article in my series of HappyModel Mobula7 upgrades, many of which can be used for the Trashcan too. Also to come are:
  • Swapping to a much more durable frame​
  • Improving the battery connector for more power
  • converting to run 'props out' 
  • Long term propeller upgrade recommendations​
  • Converting your 1s batteries into a true 2s battery
  • receiver range improvement​
All links will be updated here when completed. Many of these I've completed the work and am testing at present - it's starting to feel like a more complete little quad now. If you're looking for my review of the mobula7 including setup it can be found here
Betaflight 4 Performance edition for F3 boards
This is the final version of Betaflight you can use and I strongly recommend you use this version rather than the one on the Betaflight configurator to get full performance functionality otherwise you will miss out on features like:
  • Gyro Lowpass2
  • Launch Control (optional - OFF by default)
  • Dynamic Lowpass Filters (Dyn_LPF) (ON by default)
  • D-term Minimum (D_min) (ON by default)
  • Throttle Boost (ON by default)
  • iTerm Relax (ON by default)
  • RC Smoothing - Filter (ON by default)
  • TPA Mode - D-term ONLY option (ON by default)
Download the custom file below at the GITHUB source. SKIP THIS STEP FOR THE EACHINE TRASHCAN
For FRSKY built-in receiver
betaflight_4.0.4_crazybeef3fr_performance.hex
File Size: 679 kb
File Type: hex
Download File

For Flysky built-in receiver
betaflight_4.0.4_crazybeef3fs_performance.hex
File Size: 646 kb
File Type: hex
Download File


Read More
16 Comments

MOBULA7 AND TRASHCAN UPGRADE: Long term propeller results

12/6/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
The Happymodel Mobula7 (reviewed here), Eachine Trashcan (reviewed here) and many other brushless whoops use generic 4 bladed 40mm props that are cheap and readily available but are they the best? Simply put, no. They are from a toy grade mould and we have accepted them because when these brushless whoops were first released there was simply nothing else available. Fast forward to the present day with the growth in popularity of these models there are a lot more options, some readily available internationally, some not so much. In this article I'll give you my experiences on what I found to be my favourite prop and the justification of why (what it is I look for in a propeller).
This is the sixth article in my series of HappyModel Mobula7 upgrades, many of which can be used for the Trashcan too. Also to come are:
  • Swapping to a much more durable frame​
  • Improving the battery connector for more power
  • converting to run 'props out' 
  • tuning betaflight filters more specifically for brushless whoops, 
  • Converting your 1s batteries into a true 2s battery
  • receiver range improvement​
All links will be updated here when completed. Many of these I've completed the work and am testing at present - it's starting to feel like a more complete little quad now. If you're looking for my review of the mobula7 including setup it can be found here
What props are available?
If you're in North America probably the full list of what is below. I'm not in North America though so I was limited to what was locally available and what had low (or no) international shipping cost. Therefore this is not an exhaustive test, my approach was more on of pragmatism. ​
Props I looked at
Picture
Mobula 7 propellers
Picture
Mobula 7 propellers cut down to 2-blade
Picture
Gemfan 1636 1.6x3.6x4 40mm 4-blade 1mm Hole Propeller
Picture
​Gemfan 1635 1.6x3.5x3 40mm 1m Hole 3-blade Propeller
Props I didn't look at
Picture
KINGKONG/LDARC 1545 40mm 4-blade Propeller 1.0mm Hub

​These are newly available since I started tests. KK can be hit and miss.
Picture
​TBS MICRO BRUSHLESS PROPS 4BLADE 40MM (BLACK) (1MM HUB)
Picture
​TBS MICRO BRUSHLESS PROPS 3BLADE 40MM (BLACK) (1MM HUB)
Picture
HQ Prop 1.6 x 1.6 x 4 (1mm Shaft)
My Findings
I'll compare all my findings back to a baseline result of the stock props for simplicity
Picture
Gemfan 1636 (4 blade)
I used these when I was running the v3/trashcan frame which I blogged about here. These were a direct improvement over the stock props in all aspects but were a little more amp-hungry. Grip and speed was improved and control felt better. Props are well balanced but heavier than stock. They are extremely durable especially when you consider the protection afforded by the ducts. You will achieve hover at very low throttle

These props are a good upgrade but not my personal favourite.

Note: These are more like 41mm than 40mm and frustratingly don't quite fit in the ducts of of the v3/trashcan frame - the ones you see above were painstakingly sanded down and even then still rubbed every now and then. I hear TBS props have the same issue


Read More
0 Comments

Sailfly-X Upgrade: Improving Range

10/6/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
The Happymodel Sailfly X is my favourite quad I've reviewed so fat this year (review is here) but as with any product, there are shortcomings especially when is it built to a price. Like I did with the Mobula7 I'm starting a new series of articles on upgrading and customising the Sailfly-x.
Current State
Picture
The Sailfly-X is based around a Crazybee board like many other models, in this case it is the latest revision CrazybeeF4 pro V2.1. It uses a SPI-connected receiver that offers full telemmetry and D16 or D8 modes for FRSKY. There is some very cool technology here (I think SPI connected receivers will be the future) but the implementation here is not great on the key measure - range performance. In this article I'll document how to improve range from minor tweaks to full on long range and will be relevant for FRSK, Flysky and DSM
Step 1: Software only
The most simple mod to do is ensure the onboard receiver is given an armchair ride from a software standpoint. This means changing D16 to D8 mode in betaflight and turning off telemetry which has been known to lock up the flight controller. This can be done as below. 

Read More
0 Comments

How To caLibrate your Voltage in Betaflight

6/6/2019

1 Comment

 
Picture
Voltage sensing is critical in Betaflight not least of all because it is the best indicator of when to land in order to protect your batteries to make them last longer. I've always taken for granted that this reading is correct on every board from the factory but I can tell you it is not. On 2 recent quads I've set up it was well out (Happy model Sailfly-x and my 2019 freestyle build) to the point were it reported my 6s battery as being 24v instead of 22v.
Picture
I've been pleased with this digital multimeter from Banggood
The good news is the is an easy fix , my recommendations to get the fastest, most accurate results are below. You will need:
  • A battery that can be connected to your quad, I'd recommend the most number of cells your quad allows.
  • Your quad and a computer running betaflight with the appropriate USB cable
  • A digital multimeter that you have a bit of faith in. I use this one from BG and it hasn't let me down. You could use a cheap lipo tester like this one but I think a reasonable digital multimeter is a very important tool for troubleshooting and building.
First you'll need to connect your quad to betaflight and enter the "power and battery" tab. Next plug in your battery (please do it in this order). With you battery plugged in you'll see the voltage as shown by betaflight in the area highlighted below:
Picture
Betaflight reports voltage in either of these locations
Next use the digital multimeter to test the battery voltage using the balance connector. Do this by touching the multimeter probes on the terminals at the extreme edges of the balance connector as below. Don't worry if on backwards, your multimeter will just report a negative voltage which is fine. It is important to do this whilst the battery is connected to the quad as the electronics (especially the VTX) will draw a small amount of current and thus cause the voltage to drop a little compared with having the battery disconnected.

Read More
1 Comment

MOBULA7 and Trashcan Upgrade: Convert your 1s batteries to a true 2s

12/5/2019

8 Comments

 
Picture
Both the Happymodel Mobula7 (review) and Eachine Trashcan (review) both come with 4 x 1s batteries that are designed to be used in series 2 at a time with a fiddly ph2.0 series connector. This introduces a lot of resistance in the power circuit and resultant voltage drop under load which shows as battery sag. It is easy to upgrade to a true 2s JST connector as I've shown in this blog or a XT30 if you'd prefer. Although 2s 300mah batteries are not expensive it does feel wasteful just leaving the old batteries to die. This article covers how to convert these or any other 1s cell into a 2s battery and is scaleable up to 6s!

This is the fifth article in my series of HappyModel Mobula7 upgrades, many of which can be used for the Trashcan too. Also to come are:
  • Swapping to a much more durable frame​
  • Improving the battery connector for more power
  • converting to run 'props out' 
  • tuning betaflight filters more specifically for brushless whoops, 
  • propeller upgrades. 
  • receiver range improvement​
All links will be updated here when completed. Many of these I've completed the work and am testing at present - it's starting to feel like a more complete little quad now. If you're looking for my review of the mobula7 including setup it can be found here
A Word of Warning
Lipo batteries - even these tiny ones - have a lot of power. Anytime you modify you run the risk of rapid discharge (shorting) which generates heat and possible worse. Only do this mod if you are confident around electronics. Please wear eye protection at a minimum and work in a well lit space. Just go buy the 2s batteries if you are unsure at any point.
Getting prepped
As well as having a well lit area and a good soldering iron, solder and flux (see my article on budget tools here) you'll nee the following items:
  • 2s balance connectors with silicon wire like these: JST-XH 2S LiPo Balance Cable
  • JST female plugs with silicon wires like these: 5PCS Amass 20AWG 10cm JST Male Plug Cable 
  • or XT30 female plug with silicon wire like this: XT30 Connector To 18AWG Cable 100mm
  • 30mm wide PVC heat shrink tubing like this: 5M Flat 29.5MM 18.5MM PVC Heat Shrink Tubing
Picture
1. Here is the start weight for 2 x 250mah batteries that are included with the Mobula7
Picture
2. Carefully peel back the stickers to expose the ends of the yellow insulative tape.
Picture
3. Fold the positive (red) and negative (black) terminals up

Read More
8 Comments

USB charging for the Taranis Xlite: FullSpeed X-Charger Board install tutorial

7/4/2019

11 Comments

 
Picture
With USB charging I will never be taking those funny batteries out again
The X-lite has been a very popular controller ever since launch (you can see why in my review here). For me there were two key shortcomings:
  1. It used a proprietary docking port meaning you couldn't fit the crossfire module. This is since been solved with a simple adapter that I reviewed
  2. There was no onboard charger to charge the unique 18500 sized batteries.
In order to solve the charging issue FullspeedRC (yes the same ones that launched the Leader series of micro quads) have released a simple board that allows the batteries to be balance charge using the existing USB port. It can be bought for around $10 at the following retailers:
​
  • Xlite Charging Module @ FullspeedRC.com
  • Xlite Charging Module @ Banggood
  • Xlite Charging Module @ Gearbest
​
Please note this is not a beginner install but if you can solder a FPV cam and vtx to a flight controller you can probably do this. I've put in a LOT of photos and steps in below to make it as straightforward as possible since Fullspeed's manual is accurate but overly short. As usual click any image below to embiggen.
Tools I recommend for this job:
  • Small Phillips screwdriver e.g. something like this
  • Good soldering iron with small tip. Strongly recommend the TS100
  • Side cutters. I have been using these cheap Daniu ones for about a year now
  • Hot glue gun. This is optional to insulated new solder joints and provide a stronger fix for the antenna UFL connection. I've been using this one for about 6 months.
Picture
1. Remove the rubber caps on the far left and right on the back of the controller. Also remove the battery holders and SDCard
Picture
2. Remove the small philips head screw left...
Picture
3. ...and right
Picture
4. GENTLY pry open the case. Use a plastic electronics opener like this one if you have it. The only clips on the case are these ones on each side.

Read More
11 Comments

So easy to improve your FPV feed - use knurled grips

5/4/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture
Picture
Picture
I promise I'll keep this one short. We are forever taking antennae on and off our quads and goggles as we arrive and leave our flight locations. I'm guilty of being too eager to get in the sky and not tightening my antennae correctly thereby leaving a poor connection to the active element on both the quad and goggle ends. Using a spanner is not a fix I'd recommend as it is easy to over-torque and damage the antenna or mount.

The fix here is really easy and I got the tip from my favourite VAS antennas which all include a plastic knurled grip (now I know why). Using a knurled grip that sits over the hexagonal drive on an SMA-style connecter allows you to get a better grip and more torque on tightening whilst avoiding over torquing as above. To put this another way - using these grips allows you to get the right tightness every time - good for the best connection and it will also help them coming loose in flight.

Read More
0 Comments

Emax TinyHawk: Repairing the camera when it comes loose

28/3/2019

2 Comments

 
PictureCrap! My Tinyhawk camera has popped out
I love the emax tinyhawk, even though it is 'only' 1s it is well suited as an indoor racer and they've recently started a spec class near me just for this. My full review of it is here. One one common furstration however is that the FPV camera can come loose in a crash and if you try to push it back in the wrong way you can easily snap the tabs on the frame that hold it in. I've prepared a simple step by step walkthrough heretht will allow you to fix it safely in less than 5 minutes (I timed it!).


Read More
2 Comments

Emax tiny hawk: upgrading the props

7/3/2019

0 Comments

 
PictureTinyhawk fitted with the new 4-bladed props
Introduction
The Emax Tinyhawk is a 1s brushless whoop-style quadcopter that has steadily grown on me since I first reviewed it here. It's certainly not the fastest but is probably the most well designed ducted quad available at present. It comes stock with very good 3-bladed emax props that perform well except that lack thrust when running in reverse meaning "turtle mode" does not work. I've installed and reviewed their new 4-bladed props where turtle mode works and how they perform in general.


Read More
0 Comments

MOBULA7 UPGRADE: EAsiest way to go props out to improve flight

4/3/2019

6 Comments

 
Picture
Reversing the rotation of all of your propellers (known as 'props out') is something you commonly do on larger quads to eliminate debris bring flung into your FPV camera and to push obstacles like branches clear. Obviously these don't apply when the props are gaurded like in a Mobula 7 but there is also a hypothesis out there that it can improve flight characteristics such as note on KababFPV's video here. Some of the beta fpv guys also believe it helps with yaw washout but the evidence appears inconclusive. Typically to do this correctly you need to
  1. Remove and swap all of the props
  2. Reverse each ESC direction in BL Heli Suite
  3. Tick 'reverse props' in betflight.
The method documented here allows you to skip steps 1 and 2 which is especially useful because you can run the risk of damaging the rather fragile motors when removing and re-installing the propellers. Just a quick note the the Eachine trashcan comes default with reversed-props.

This is the fourth article in my series of HappyModel Mobula7 upgrades, many of which can be used for the Trashcan too. Also to come are:
  • Swapping to a much more durable frame​
  • Improving the battery connector for more power
  • tuning betaflight filters more specifically for brushless whoops, 
  • propeller upgrades. 
  • receiver range improvement
  • modding your 1s battery to be a proper 2s
All links will be updated here when completed. Many of these I've completed the work and am testing at present - it's starting to feel like a more complete little quad now. If you're looking for my review including setup it can be found here

Read More
6 Comments

MOBULA7 UPGRADE: Better Range with the Onboard receiver

26/2/2019

15 Comments

 
PictureThis mobula 7 is getting more and more upgraded
Introduction
The crazybee F3 and F4 series of all in one boards that are the heart of the mobula7, m7hd, eachine trashcan, snapper7, ur65, uk/us65 and even beta75pro2 are an amazing piece of technology that incorporates a flight controller, 4xBL_HeliS ESCs and a receiver. Cramming all of this on one board does mean some compromises though and the biggest one for me is the poor receiver range. This brief article will show how to get a minor improvement with zero investment. Note: this mod is relevant for all the models listed above.

This is the third article in my series of HappyModel Mobula7 upgrades, many of which can be used for the Trashcan too. Also to come are:
  • Swapping to a much more durable frame​
  • Improving the battery connector for more power
  • tuning betaflight filters more specifically for brushless whoops, 
  • converting to run 'props out' 
  • propeller upgrades. 
  • receiver range improvement
  • modding your 1s battery to be a proper 2s
All links will be updated here when completed. Many of these I've completed the work and am testing at present - it's starting to feel like a more complete little quad now. If you're looking for my review including setup it can be found here

Read More
15 Comments

MOBULA7 UPGRADE: More power with better battery connector

5/2/2019

21 Comments

 
Picture
Introduction
In order to run 2s, the Mobula 7 comes standard with 2 x PH2.0 connectors that allow you to run 2 x 1s batteries in series. When running in series the strength of the connection is determined by the weakest link in that circuit. The strength of connection determines the maximum current that can pass and the voltage drop that results. Although it works this system has a very low current overhead from a design perspective - 2 x budget PH2.0 connectors with the dreaded 'folded' pin and very lightweight 26AWG wire. All this adds up to a lot of voltage drop when even reasonable current is pulled - something all will be familiar with on the mobula where you see voltage drop to scary levels (6v and below) during punches even when you have a full battery. Although it recovers almost immediately it does mean you don't get access to the battery's full voltage potential.

New Update: Read here how to convert your 1s batteries to a 2s battery
This is the second article in my series of HappyModel Mobula7 upgrades, many of which can be used for the Trashcan too. Also to come are:
  • Swapping to a much more durable frame​
  • tuning betaflight filters more specifically for brushless whoops, 
  • converting to run 'props out' 
  • propeller upgrades. 
  • receiver range improvement
  • modding your 1s battery to be a proper 2s
All links will be updated here when completed. Many of these I've completed the work and am testing at present - it's starting to feel like a more complete little quad now. If you're looking for my review including setup it can be found here
Picture
JST connectors are very cheap, light and perfect for this application
How to improve the situation
Now that we are through the dreaded theory we can get on to the solution. To cut to the chase I will be moving to a true 2s battery connection with a JST connector and this is why:
  • 1 x JST connector will allow much more current than 2 poor quality PH2.0 connectors
  • 20-22AWG (guage) wire has a lot less voltage drop that the 26AWGwire included
As a bonus this makes it more durable. Although I used a 20AWG in this walthrough, I'd recommend these 22AWG ones because they are much more easy to solder and manage. In order to keep you motivated I'm pleased to say this makes a significant improvement to power and reduction in battery sag, more in the conclusions at the end. 

Read More
21 Comments

Mobula7 Walkthrough Upgrade: The best Frame for your Mobula 7

28/1/2019

11 Comments

 
Picture
Picture
PictureThe Mobula7 v3 frame (same as the Eachine trashcan frame)
Introduction and why I like the Mobula7 better.
It's been a few months since I reviewed the HappyModel Mobula 7 (here) and have more recently reviewed the Eachine Trashcan here. Since reviewing the Trashcan I've been flying the Mobula 7 more and find I actually prefer it. Why? Even thought the image quality is better I can't get used to the narrow vertical field of view on the traschan's EOS2 16:9 camera and I find the 0803 motors on the trashcan draw too much power on without delivering a whole lot more speed. The Mobula7's major downside is the frame which breaks easily even though the v2 frame is an improvement and e6000 glue (as tested here) is great for repairs.

For this reason I've written an article for newcomers on how to upgrade to the V3 (trashcan) frame which completely addresses the strength issues.

This is the first article in my series of HappyModel Mobula7 upgrades, many of which can be used for the Trashcan too. Also to come are:
  • installing a better battery connector,
  • tuning betaflight filters more specifically for brushless whoops,
  • converting to run 'props out'
  • propeller upgrades.
  • receiver range improvement
  • modding your 1s battery to be a proper 2s
All links will be updated here when completed. Many of these I've completed the work and am testing at present - it's starting to feel like a more complete little quad now.
Instead of just writing about it, please see the steps below with captions. Click on the picture to embiggen
Picture
1. Remove all of the motor plugs from main wires. You can just pull the wires but I'd recommed small needle-nosed pliers to pull on the plugs instead
Picture
2. Shown here with all 4 motor wires removed.
Picture
3. Use the included Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 3 screws that secure the canopy to the frame. Don't lose them!

Read More
11 Comments

Eachine Trashcan: Improving the Beeper with software only

7/1/2019

4 Comments

 
Picture
Introduction
​Recently I've reviewed the Eachine Trashcan and in many ways it is superior to the Mobula7 as I found in my review here. One omission from the trashcan though compared to the Mobula7 is the lack of a physical beeper. On the upside though is that the trashcan (like most other brushless quads) uses Dshot as the ESC protocol meaning you can use the motors as a beeper. This is in fact immediately available on the Trashcan with some simple software changes which I will outline below.


Read More
4 Comments

FullSpeed TinyLeader Serious Thrust upgrade - 1.9" props

5/1/2019

4 Comments

 
Picture
I did a thing. After reviewing the new FullSpeed TinyLeader 2s-3s brushless whoop (review here) I learnt to fly around the heavier weight which has come about because of it's larger motors and better FPV system. I still think that 1103 motors like on the TinyLeader and Beta75x are better suited to a lightweight 2" propeller like my ultralight build here rather than the 40mm props (1.6") as we see so commonly on the brushless whoops now. I decided to put my money where my mouth is so to speak and prove it rather than just hypothesing.

Read More
4 Comments
<<Previous

    Archives

    November 2020
    July 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    February 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017

    Categories

    All
    1.9 Inch
    2 Inch
    2s Whoop
    3.4.0
    3.5
    3d Printing
    5.8GHz
    6 Inch
    6s
    AKK
    AKK Infinite
    Antenna
    Attitude V5
    Battery Pad
    Beeper
    Betaflight
    Brushless Whoop
    Cheap Mods
    Dji Fpv
    Dshot
    DVR
    Eachine
    Eachine Trashcan
    Emax
    Fatshark
    Fullspeed
    Furibee X140
    Goggles
    Happymodel
    Hawk 5
    Hawk 6
    Headstrap
    Hq Props
    Iflight
    Jello
    King Kong Fly Egg
    Larva X
    Larva-x
    Leader 120
    Lightweight
    Micro Brushless
    Micro CCD
    Micro Quad
    Mobula
    Mobula6
    Mobula7
    Mobula7 Upgrade
    Omnibus
    OSD
    Pids
    Propellers
    Red Devil
    Repair
    Runcam Nano 2
    Sailfly X Upgrade
    Sailfly-x Upgrade
    T65mm
    Throttle
    Throttle Limit
    Thrust
    Tinyhawk
    Tinyleader
    Trashcan
    Upgrade
    USB Charger
    VTX
    Walkthrough
    X2 Elf
    Xlite

    RSS Feed

    follow us in feedly
Thanks for visiting QuadifyRC.com Follow us on facebook below to get all the latest updates
  • RC Cars
  • Car of the Month
  • Quad Reviews
  • Quad Mods
  • COUPONS AND DISCOUNTS
  • Long Range
  • About & Contact