USB charging for the Taranis Xlite: FullSpeed X-Charger Board install tutorial

With USB charging I will never be taking those funny batteries out again

The X-lite has been a very popular controller ever since launch (you can see why in my review here). For me there were two key shortcomings:

1. It used a proprietary docking port meaning you couldn't fit the crossfire module. This is since been solved with a simple adapter that I reviewed
2. There was no onboard charger to charge the unique 18500 sized batteries.

In order to solve the charging issue FullspeedRC (yes the same ones that launched the Leader series of micro quads) have released a simple board that allows the batteries to be balance charge using the existing USB port. It can be bought for around $10 at the following retailers:
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• Xlite Charging Module @ FullspeedRC.com
• Xlite Charging Module @ Banggood
• Xlite Charging Module @ Gearbest

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Please note this is not a beginner install but if you can solder a FPV cam and vtx to a flight controller you can probably do this. I've put in a LOT of photos and steps in below to make it as straightforward as possible since Fullspeed's manual is accurate but overly short. As usual click any image below to embiggen.

Tools I recommend for this job:

• Small Phillips screwdriver e.g. something like this
• Good soldering iron with small tip. Strongly recommend the TS100
• Side cutters. I have been using these cheap Daniu ones for about a year now
• Hot glue gun. This is optional to insulated new solder joints and provide a stronger fix for the antenna UFL connection. I've been using this one for about 6 months.

1. Remove the rubber caps on the far left and right on the back of the controller. Also remove the battery holders and SDCard

2. Remove the small philips head screw left...

3. ...and right

4. GENTLY pry open the case. Use a plastic electronics opener like this one if you have it. The only clips on the case are these ones on each side.

5. Gently pry the case open bottom...

6. ...And top

7. The rear of the case should come off completely as nothing is attached to it. You can see the tabs more closely here

8. He is how it should look with the rear cover removed

9. Remove the 2 screw shown above

10. Cut the 2 cable ties shown above being careful not to snip any wires. I just use these cheap side cutters

11. Gently py off the internal antenna connection and remove the rubber bung that covers the external antenna

12. Now you should be able to lift up the daughterboard but note it is still attached by 2 bundles of cables. Do not discnnect these

13. In the middle of the image above you can see a capacitor lying flat against the board. It is installed like this in all but the very first review versions of the X-Lite as NJTech found in his excellent video here. If your capacitor is standing up you'll need to see his video for the fix.

14. Solder the included wires and LED to the board as shown above. You must use a fine tipped soldering iron. I used the TS100 which is excellent

15. Mine included 3 screws not 4? Weird, Never mind, 3 is fine

16. Use those screws to attach the new board to the rear of the daughterboard as above

17. Carefully solder the yellow and white wires (1s, 2s) to the x-lite as circled above

18. Remove the sticker as shown to access the 5v and ground source from the USB

19. Solder 5v and ground as above. The 5v supply is the single most difficult soldering job here. Take your time. Look at the fullspeed manual here if you need a clearer image

20. Gently move the bundle of wires away from the base of the daughterboard in order to re-attach.

21. Reinstall screws, cableties and antenna UFL and external antenna bung in reverse of steps 9, 10, 11. Put the battery covers on, plug in a USB cable and cross your fingers! If it's all wired correctly the LED lit like this shown the batteries are charging. Now you can tuck loose cables away too.

22. I used E6000 glue to stick the LED to the board near the smartport pins but hot glue is probably better as it sets more quickly

22. This is how mine looked with cables tidied away before in put the rear cover back on.

23. The rear cover was much easier to re-install than it was to remove. Make sure you put the screws back in and the rubber caps back on. You can see mine charging here with the pale blue light coming from the smartport.

24. After the LED went off on its own the 2 cells are reading a perfect 8.4v i.e. 4.2v per cell. Just right!

So how does it go? It's works exactly as you would hope. You plug it in, it starts charging and it turns off when it's done. It charges up to 4.2v per cell which just right for a Li-Ion cell. It's a shame it didn't come like this from the factory but I'm glad fullspeed had the vision to come up with a solution.

Update: FRSKY have just announced 2 new x-lite variants (X-lite pro and X-lite s that do have USB charging as standard). These are more expensive than the base models of which there are a LOT in circulation. Now that mine has USB charging I personally see no reason to update for what I need from a controller.

Thanks for reading, if you found this article useful please feel free to like or share, the facebook links below directly link/like this article. Links are affiliated and help me buy the bits I need to produce this type of content. I don't have a Patreon and never will, this is a hobby for me and not a source of income.