Blog Archives

Betaflight OSD settings not saving - how to fix

27/8/2019

Recently I've had a number of niggly issues with Betaflight OSD. When I switch to my favourite font (Digital in case you're asking) the save doesn't take on some of my quads. However since I could still add/remove and reposition elements of the OSD I never looked into troubleshooting because it wasn't worth my time.

More recently though when I've switched cameras between quads (NTSC to PAL and vice versa) then I have lost my OSD altogether. The easy fix seemed to be to change the PAL/NTSC in betaflight but this didn't fix the issue. What I didn't realise is that these issue have the same root cause and the answer is surprisingly simple:

Changing between NTSC and PAL here did not save either, this was the cause of me loosing OSD altogether when incorrect

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Balance charging for the Fatshark battery case: Mod Tutorial

16/8/2019

4 Comments

Recently I made my biggest ever FPV purchase - the Fatshark attitude V5 FPV goggles with the new 30 degree FOV OLED screens. I'm still field testing these for a review which will follow but first I wanted to look at the battery case, more to the point, how to fix the shortcomings.

The Fatshark 18650 battery holder comes with the Attitude V5 or can be bought separately

I love that you can use 18650 cells to power the goggles because lithium ion cells are much better suited to the task given their big capacity. The problem is that the battery holder has an incomplete balance connect meaning you cannot charge them. Since I don't have a dedicated 18650 charged I've modded my case so it can be charged safely using a regular balance charger. Note, the Fatshark 18650 battery holder can be bought separately here and can be used with any goggle.

In this tutorial I rectify this issue by showing you how to safely open the case and mod it to allow for real balance charging whilst losing noe of the rest of the functionality. With this mode you do not need a special charger for 18650 cells, you can use your regular balance charger and charge your pack safely and efficiently. If you need batteries a local vape shop will probably have the best prices but if not then I used these 3000mah ones that have been rebranded.

Tools needed

Craft knife
Small Philip-head screwdriver. This set looks good if you don't have one.
Soldering iron. I use the excellent TS100
Solder. This is fine
Flux (optional but recommended). I use this cheap stuff
An old battery-end balance lead. Or if you buy this one you won't need the extra wire below
Some extra 20-26 guage wire. This is cheap in 22AWG

See below how to complete the work. This took me about 30 minutes. Most of the time was to figure out the best path for the wire and make the path for it accordingly. As always, pictures can be embiggened

1. Remove the read sticker and then remove the 2 screws that were hidden behing the sticker. Gentle pry the clips off to remove the cover as above

2. Slide out the battery connecting plate as above

3. Tin the battery connecting plate as above. Scrape where you wish to solder, use high heat and flux to make it easier

4. Solder on a 20-26AWG wire that is at least 10cm in length

4 Comments

How to fix Jello in the Diatone 2019 GT R239, R249, R249+ and R349 plus final PIDs

7/8/2019

2 Comments

The Diatone GT R249+ is my favourite traditional 2.5 inch micro quad based on it's relatively lightweight in this class, motors which have a wonderful mix of power and efficiency, reliable electronics and excellent built quality. My review of this quad is here and it is still available across multiple retailers.

However over a short period of time I started getting a lot of Jello which is concerning given the camera is a CCD which should be much more stable. I did a lot of PID and filter tuning but gave up after a while and let it sit on my shelf. Now I've come back to it with a fresh set of ideas and believe I have fixed the Jello problem once and for all. Firstly I can categorically state that in my case it was not the tune nor the propellers that fixed the issue as I've seen stated elsewhere. The issue is around the camera/VTX and this fix should be relevant to all canopy versions of this quad that doesn't use the TBS vtx i.e.

GT R239 (2 inch plastic frame)

GT R249 (2 inch carbon frame)

GT R249+ (2.5" carbon frame)

GT R349 (3 inch carbon frame)

What is the problem?
The problem is the way that the runcam TX200u vtx attaches to the camera. Although this is actually a very good clean vtx that is light and great for saving spaces it requires the manufactur to remove the screws that hold the camera lens housing to the sensor board and re-use these mount point to use longer collared screws that perform the same function as well as holding the vtx to the camera. What I think it happening is that this is compromising the solidity of the mount between the sensor and the lens housing thereby introducing vibration between these two units.

Runcam tx200u vtx

The screws that hold the vtx to the cam also hold the sensor board to the lens housing and I believe the connection between the board and housing is compromised as a result. At least the Caddx Turbo F2 has some foam tape between board and housing unlike the stock runcam swift although I don't believe a camera change is necessary.

2 Comments

TIPS and TRICKS

Betaflight OSD settings not saving - how to fix

Balance charging for the Fatshark battery case: Mod Tutorial

How to fix Jello in the Diatone 2019 GT R239, R249, R249+ and R349 plus final PIDs

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