The Emax Tinyhawk is the latest in the line of ready to fly quadcopters from Emax USA which started with the BabyHawk R and the Hawk 5 both of which have been reviewed here at QuadifyRC. Both had good gear on board but were excellent when considered as a package because unlike any other model available these have been full set up and tuned. The new Emax Tinyhawk follows in the same vein albeit in a much smaller 1s brushless whoop form factor. This review will cover the setup out of the box as well as flight and video performance.
First lets take a look at the specs and I'll immediately adress the fact that it is 1s only unlike the HappyModel Mobula7, Eachine Trashcan or FullSpeed TinyLeader (links go to reviews). I'll discuss this more later but for now I don't think it is a disadvantage, rather it just fills a different position in the market. Rest of the details with comments in red below:
What is included
This is my favourite part of this quad - it is FULLY set up. You may want to set up your custom rates and OSD but there are already 3 sets of rates setup and the stock OSD setting are good. I'm just a creature of habit. All unique betaflight screens as set by Emax are shown below.
Woah, this flies really nice. Whether it comes down to the tune or the design of the quadcopter (more likely a combination of both) this is just a pleasure to fly. Yes running on 1s means you'll be using more of the throttle and so will have more resolution but I've never been able to fly as close to the ground consistently as I have with my tinyhawk. The DVR below was the second pack I ever flew and the first on my own personal rates.
To once again address the elephant in the room it is not as fast as a 2s micro quadcopter and it is harder to pull off and recover from freestyle maneouvres. That said it is superior to the Trashcan or Mobula7 running 1s becuse it is full optimised for 1s. The Snapper7 would be a closer comparison but it feels much better and more powerful than that. This means that the Emax Tinyhawk is not a jack of all trades quadcopter like the Mobula7, Trashcan and to a lesser extent TinyLeader but IS a master of 1s brushless. As you can see from the DVR it is perfectly fine outdoors so long as there is not too much wind. Because of this I think this fills a very useful niche where it is probably my most strongly recommended starter quadcopter that is capable of indoor and light outdoor flight - it is extremely well tuned, it is fast enough (but not too fast) and it is super-durable which segues me nicely into durability...
My work this is a tough little quadcopter. The frame is beautifully designed with well thought out material and executed in a very tody manner. Couple this with 1s speed and it is near indestructable. Not just the frame either - the electronics and motors are extremely well protected from exposure to crash impact.
Not bad. I know a few people have complained about reception here but I don't find it that bad and certainly it's fit for purpose for the type of range you'd expect to be flying this. If video reception is a real issue though the vtx unit is discrete so can be replaced with something more powerful like an HGLRC nano or the like. Once I pull this apart I'll see if I can improve signal quality by exposing the antenna more but it is not a priority at present because I find it good enough.
As for the camera it is ok, comparable to other small CMOS cameras like you'd find on the snapper7 and mobula7. Works pretty well at night as you can see from my video below.
Comparison to other micro brushless quads
If the Emax TinyHawk had've been launched 3 months earlier it would have dominated the market. However it happened to launch at the same time as the Mobula 7 which really shook things up and left everyone asking emax: "why didn't you go 2s?" My answer to this would be that the Tinyhawk feels like this was much longer in development by the attention to detail in designand tune meaning the 2s electronics simply wouldn't have been available when development on this quad started.
So here I'm going to go opinion based and run a quick comparison below of why you might choose each of these current models. I've done some grouping where models compete a little more directly
Summary and Conclusion
So after having reviewed the much more powerful 2s whoop I thought the Emax Tinyhawk was going to be a real let down. I was shocked however to find I enjoyed this out of all the brushless whoops It's certainly not the fastest but is no slouch for a 1s (and superior to all the other 2s whoops running 1s). More importantly it was fun and easy to fly whereas I always feel like I'm fighting the keep the trashcan, mobula7 and tinyleader under control. I believe the reason is that 2s may just be too much for a whoop (in my opinion) because of the peculiar characteristics it imparts on flight performance - freestyle especially. This is one of the reasons I converted the tiny leader to open 1.9" props here - immediately improved on flight performance.
Don't get the Tinyhawk if you want all out speed - get the mobula7 or trashcan. Likewise get the tinyleader if you want cinewhoop HD footage. But if you want to just enjoy flight indoors and out equally well with cheap batteries then this is the one to get. For this reason this is the quad I will be recommending when someone asks about getting into the hobby - the durability, design and predictable, well-tuned flight just makes this such a good option especially now that it comes in a $170 ready to fly kit with goggles and transmitter.
Quick note - Gearbest has the Tinyhawk BNF on sale for $89 till end of January with the code GBEMTH6
Link and Spare parts to everything realted to the tinyhawk below, just click on the picture:
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After quite a bit of teasing on their site, Banggood have released the Eachine VRD3 goggles for sale. These are a well-specced low cost 5.8GHz Goggle with DVR aimed at beginners or as a backup pair. On to discussion of the specifications below and what it included
Focus Adjustable - Should mean basic corrective lenses are not required
Support DVR Recording - Record your flights for reviewing later or helping fing a lost quad
Real-time display current voltage - Lets you know if battery is getting flat
Diversity Receiver - Better reception by utilising 2 x antenna types
Weight : 164.7g (without antenna and headband) Fairly light - shouldn't fatigue user.
Size : 138*129*79mm(without antenna seat and antenna height) - quite small for a box goggle (easy to transport)
Working Current : 350-450mA Low power consumption, included battery should last 2 hours continuous use
3 inch 900 x 600 screen Small but very high resolution screen - with the right optics this will make for a good FPV experience
Receiver Connector : RP-SMA Male - Most connectors are SMA - be wary with antenna choice and or buy adaptors
Built-in Battery - Great... no extra battery needed
Charging Real-time standby function - plug in a powerbank to keep you running if the battery gets low.
Receiving Frequency : 5.8G 40CH - fairly standard list which gets you access to all channels.
1 x Eachine VRD3 Goggles
1 x Mushroom Antenna
1 x Panel Antenna
1 x USB Charging Cable
1 x User Manual
On first glance these look like well-made durable goggles. You have the option of installing thick or thin foam pads when you get these. When you receive these you'll need to recharge the internal battery which you can do by plugging in the usb cable. The red light near when you plug in will show you this is charging and this will go out when charged. A full charge should be enough to give you about 2 hours of continuous operation.
Next you'll need to screw down the antennas. It doesn't matter which side each go on but do make sure the patch antenna (panel) has the flat face pointing away from you. If you want to use the DVR, you'll need to insert and micro sd card into the slot at the front of of the goggles at the top. Although it is overkill I'd recommend class 10 since they are so cheap now anyway for example this $6 32GB one from Banggood.
The last bit of preparation you'll need to do it ensure the straps are adjusted so the goggles fit correctly - I'm sure you can figure this bit out for yourself!
So what are the actually like? Firstly the screen looks fantastic. Although it is 'only' 3 inch the optics help provide an immersive field of view whilst keeping the size down. The colours are good and the resultion is fantastic - higher than my $270 Aomway Commanders as I reviewed here. Of course you can't take full advantage of the resolution given the input signal but it does make the image more crisp. I like the fact that voltage is always available so you know how much charge is left in the battery given it is an internal one. Once you get down to about 3.7v you'll need to recharge. Also in the goggle OSD is the diversity feedback, letting you know which antenna (and receiver) is picking up the FPV signal from your quad.
What I like less about these is the fit on my face. I don't think I have an especially big or wide nose but find the goggles rest uncomfortable on the bridge of my nose. I was only able to fly 2-3 packs before they became too sore. There was no light leakage though and they are otherwise comfortable. Remember there is no single set of goggles that will fit everyone well, there is such variation in the sizes and shapes of human faces you really need to find what works for you.
In contrast with what at least one other reviewer has stated, these goggles actually have 2 receivers meaning that have true rather diversity - not just antenna diversity.
The included antennas appear to work just fine but if you want to use different ones the more common connector standard is SMA (not RP SMA). It's not the end of the world, you'll just need some cheap adapters as below
Pricing and Conclusion
A quick note on pricing before I conclude this blog: Banggood state that these have a retail price of $99 and they are currently on discount for $59. That is rubbish - $59 is the standard price. That said $59 is actually really good value considering the diversity, DVR, screen resolution and included battery. As a result I think these will become very popular starter goggles and with good reason. Assuming these fit your face better than they do mine these will be a durable goggle with good performance and should be quite compact for carrying which is a surprisinly important consideration. If you are looking to purchase, you can buy them here at Banggood for $59.
In the world of brushless ducted quadcopters (whoops) I have been lucky enough to review most of the big hype products - Happymodel Snapper7 and upgrades, Happymodel Mobula 7, Full Speed TinyLeader and now the Eachine Trashcan. Clearly it is a silly but memorable name and it will surely be easy to search for online.
It is great to see a case included here and like the mobula7, enough battery power to get flying in earnest. The included XT30 is a small gesture but a nice touch nonetheless.
For this review I will make comparisons to the Happymodel Mobula7 given it is recognised as something of a performance standard and the popularity and obvious similarities. You can find the full review for the Mobula7 here. When the Eachine Trashcan was first announced the Mobula7 could not be found in stock for love or money, and the specs read like an upgrade of every single component of the Mobula7 - see below for my comparison. Other than winning the mine is bigger than yours prize, there were seemingly some key areas that were addressed that were a known point of discussion for the Mobula 7:
So from a specs perspective it looks to be superior to the Mobula7 in every way however it does pay for this somewhat in weight - up from 26g in the Mobula 7 to 34g but still much less than the 45g of the Tinyleader. Note, for the uninitiated these are all 2s ducted micro quadcopters with 40mm propellers.
So it does look like betaflight has been customised with a factory tune however it does seem to behalf baked? See my comments in the Betaflight screenshots below. Interesting to note that mine shipped with Betaflight 4.0 which although well regarded at the time of writing, is still only a nightly build.
The Eachine Trashcan is capable of both 1s and 2s power supply. The stock batteries are 1s but are designed to be used in series. If you are looking at new batteries I'd recommend converting to proper 2s 300-350mah packs and changing the connector to the included XT30. Unlike the Mobula 7 the Eachine trashcan will fit these pack natively. Packs I can confirm that physically fit the stock frame are:
Throttle limit (modified from my Mobula 7 review)
If you are looking at flying indoors I'd recommend against using larger 1s batteries (450-600mah) but instead use a throttle limit in betaflight. The advantages here are lower current draw and less battery sag. Putting the limit in betaflight rather than on your radio gives you better control and allows you to put throttle limits on an auxilliary switch. Full details on how to limit throttle in betaflight 3.4.0 and up here.
Straight off the bat, this quadcopter is very quick. In fact when I first took off on my initial flight and blipped the throttle to overcome the ground effect, I catapulted straight into the overhead louvres! The power is apparent in actual flight too particularly in the low to mid range where the power feels difficult to manage at times (for me anyway). I found I could manage better when limiting throttle to 80% as above through betaflight throttle scaling. All this thrust means that big power loops and pulling out of large dives very late is even more impressive than the mobula7 and is significantly better than the TinyLeader on 2s. The speed is such that it is hard to believe this is actually a ducted whoop when flying on the goggles - it looks very alien seeing this quad fly line of sight because it is speed and the tiny size.
In terms of handling I feel it is a little more awkward than the mobula 7. I am not convinced this is because of the extra weight alone - I think the more supports on the frame may have altered the aerodynamics. It is not bad by any stretch, just takes a little getting used to unlike the Mobula 7 (or emax tinyhawk) which feel a little more natural. I have not yet tuned to any real degree but this may well help. While still on handling I do get more yaw twitches than the Mobula7 (but not as many as TinyLeader) particularly on split-s and hairpin manouvres rather than pulling out of dives. Since these moves are typically asssociated with propwash it may be that I just need to add additional d-term on roll and pitch axes.
Efficiency - power consumption
The Eachine trashcan comes with 300mah batteries run in series for 2s and outdoors this will get you 2.5 - 3.5 minutes flight depending on how hard you fly and what voltage you come down at. This is the same sort of flight time on the Mobula7 which achieves it with 250mah batteries and smaller 0802 motors. I noticed early on that I was not using the top 20-30% of throttle because although the current draw increases, the thrust does not increase to the same degree. This tells me that on this setup the motor becomes inefficient in this range - specifically that the kV is a little too hight for 2s alone. My guess is this choice was a compromise to still allow reasonable 1s flight. My recommendation for this is to scale maximum throttle to 70 or 80% on 2s which should offer better efficiency, better throttle resolution and longer flight for very little practical loss in trust.
Although I personally do not need it, it is nice to have 200mW available close to hand via betaflight OSD switching. It will give you greater confidence at range for video signal which is an important consideration given the speed at which this tiny quadcopter can cover ground. Its worth nothing that the ability to go to 200mW puts this ahead of all other brushless whoops other than betaFPV 65x and 75x (which have questionable VTXs) and the Fullspeed TinyLeader which goes up to a staggering 600mW.
In terms of camera, the Caddx EOS delivers a superior picture in daylight compared to the AIO cameras of all other brushless whoops exept the Tinyleader which uses a full size micro camera. This was clearly a conscious choice as it contributes somewhat to the weight increase over the Mobula7. That said there are 2 things I do not like about this camera:
Conclusions and summary
The Eachine Trashcan is a 2s brushless micro ducted whoop-style quadcopter avaialble exclusively from Bangood. It builds upon the huglely successful Happymodel Mobula7 and it improves it in practically every aspect from a specs standpoint, most importantly for me from a frame strength perspective which I felt was the only real let down of the Mobula7 in my review. In flight it is a powerhouse but suffers a little from awkward flight characterstics which I suspect can be remedied with tuning. I believe this will be a very popular model and so PID tunes from users with know how will become more readily available.
If you are looking for a 2s brushless whoop and do not need HD recording (like the TinyLeader HD) the trashcan is probably the one to get - if you can get it. It is available exlusively through Banggood and at time of writing it is in pre-order status.
Update: I have just added a new article - how to improve the beeper using software only (for beginners)
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These can be found below and are interchangeable with other micro brushless quads, particularly the Happymodel Mobula7:
I will add more parts as they become available here but in the meantime check out all of the parts available on my Mobula 7 review
The Fullspeed Tiny Leader is a new sub-micro class quadcopter from FullSpeedRC.com that is ducted and competes in the now popular and increasingly competitive brushless whoop market. Full Speed is a now well known and respected producer of micro brushless quadcopters including the original Leader 120 (review here) and more recent Leader 2.5 (review here) and Leader 3 (review here). Below I will outline the published specs and what sets this apart from other brushless whoops - good, bad or indifferent. To clarify there are 2 current Full Speed Tiny Leader models: The TinyLeader Regular and TinyLeader HD with onboard HD recording. This review is for the TinyLeader regular
Weelbase: 75mm plastic + carbon frame (1mm) Lightweight carbon frame to which 4 injection moulded flexible ducts attatch. The motors attach to the ducts. Feels very durable prior to flight and nice touch that ducts are identical for individual replacement if needed. Replacement frame here
Weight: 45g (without battery) This is the heaviest whoop with 75mm props to date by some margin but also the most heavily specced. I am concerned about disc loading
Flight controller: FSD408（F411 FC） 2-3S built-in OSD Nice to have an f4 processor here. Rather than using a whoop sized board this is a more traditional 16mm 2 layer stack
ESC: FSD408（1-3S ESC） BLHELI_S 4in1 ESC Dshot600 3s!!! This is a big deal not just for this model - a 16mm x 16mm flight stack has never been able to do 3s. This flight stack can even run on 1s
Motor: 1103 11000KV with connector This is where a bigger portion of the weight comes from but these motors should be more efficient and more durable in the long run with twin bearings as opposed to bushings. The Betafpv 75x uses similar motors.
Propeller: 40mm 4-blades props, 1.5mm shaft hole Same design as the Mobula 7, Beta75x with larger 1.5mm hole for 1.5mm motor shaft on 1103 motors
Camera: Caddx Micro F2 camera with angle adjustable（0°- 45°）This is a standout over all other whoops thus far- a true micro camera with much better colour reproduction and light handling than any AIO or EOS unit. This is the main reason for the weight penalty. As for angle adjustment, this is the best, most positive and reliable angle adjustment in any whoop bar none.
VTX: FSD TX600 Pit/25/100/200/400/600 switchable VTX（support IRC Tramp）An overkill allowing up to 600mW? Adds weight but this is one of the best VTXs I've come across on a 3" quad (used for Leader 3, 2.5) let alone a brushless whoop.
The design objective for this brushless whoop truly sets it apart from other brushless whoops: good, bad and indifferent. My opinion here is based more around design than flight performance for now:
The TinyLeader software comes heavily customised and tuned from the factory. I would recommend trying as is with your rate, switch and OSD configuration. I have kept all of the stock settings below in screenshot form for quick reference. Please note although current sensor is turned on, there is none present.
A note on batteries
If you have seen any of the Full Speed TinyLeader flights on Lewis Lees Youtube Channel the you will know that this tiny quadcopter will take 2s or 3s - the first of its kind to do so. Small, high discharge 2s batteries are becoming more common thanks in part to the Beta 75x and here are my favourite 2 options below:
3s batteries that fit this quad on the other had are simply hard to come by at the time of writing in a suitabe size - I am picking 250-300mah. There are however a few options available for 350mah but these may require replacing the battery holder with a rubber band:
As expected this is the best image and signal performance I have seen on a ducted brushless quadcopter. Although it is not great at low light conditions the Caddx micro F2 offers a superior image to any camera currently found on brushless whoops (even including the EOS which several have used as an upgrade). Better yet you can easily swap out for any other micro cam if you wish. Similarly the VTX (FSD TX600) is vasly superior in power options and transmission quality to anything from any other brushless whoop. I would recommend against any setting above 200mW because it will start to noticeably impact your battery life. See below for camera perfomance in very low light (11pm)
Just to get some personal bias out of the way I do prefer super lightweight quadcopters that do not overload the prop. I light the way the change direction quickly and are use the battery more efficienty. Good examples of this are the original Leader 120 (reviewed here), my micro 2 inch build here and my old racing floss 2 build here. The Tiny Leader is not light - in fact it is the heaviest in the 75mm prop class as you can see below (obviously not all these are 75mm).
The TinyLeader is fast, can do a passable powerloop, split-s and can dive without a significant amount of yaw wobble. It can even do turtle mode in the way that you would hope. I cannot help but feeling the weight though on the little props. I need 40-45% throttle to hover which is an indication of the thrust to weight ratio however it is the feel of pulling out of maneouvres and dives that make me uncomfortable as is its lesser ability to change direction in fast low racing-style flight where much heavier use of the throttle is required. This makes it more of a point and squirt style flyer than being able to make longer flowy sweeping turns that inevitably use more roll than yaw. Again, not bad, just not the way I like to fly. Update: as I spend more time with this little quad, I am starting to get the hand of flying it more. By keeping the throttle up I find I can maneouvre and control it much better. You will see this in the video below where I pull off a decent powerloop, spit-s and faster turns.
A quick note on noise
The side effect of loading up these props tends to be noise - it is noticeably louder than other quads running the same props on a lighter build. This is just the price you need to pay though for a superior FPV system - nothing comes for free.
Battery life and voltage sag
Battery life is not great on this one owing to a heavier than average all-up weight and larger than average motors. I have been using the GNB 2s 300mah HV battery charged to 4.2v per cell and have typicaly getting 2:30 or less flight. Charging to 4.35v per cell may get me another 10-20 seconds but I would rather look after this battery.
Battery sag is at an absolute minimum owing to the quality of the battery and the xt30 connector used. In fact I had to increase the warning voltage to 3.5v because of the lack of sag - the battery did recover to a higher voltage after the flight finished. This means you need to be careful - unlike the mobula 7 and whoops in general you cannot run the voltage down as low with the expectation that it will bounce back up again.
I currently do not have a suitble size 3s battery (smallest is 450mah at 40g) but will look to order tosee if I can get the kind of performance hit that the Full Speed team got in their prototype videos - see below
Opportunities to modify
Disclaimer: this is my opinion only, read on if you dare... Not sure if I mentioned it above but the tiny leader is physically small for a quadcopter but large from a whoop, even a 75mm one. You can see below that external dimensions are close to a 2 inch mico and that is in essence what I think it should be. Making a single piece 2mm carbon frame without ducts than can take a 1.9 or 2 inch prop would certainly be an interesting proposal for mitigating some of the weight. It would of course create a new limitation in that it could not be flown indoors however at 65g including battery I feel it is already too heavy to fly indoors anyway (in my opinion). I believe a larger prop would allow us to take better advantage of the 1103 motors and at 11000kV would be ideal for 1s or 2s (maybe 3s).
Conclusions and recommendations
There are no 2 ways about it, the TinyLeader has the best FPV setup by some margin for any brushless whoop released as at end December 2018 - genuine micro camera size, VTX with up to 600mW output and a handsome canopy that allows an adjustment of up to 40°C camera angle that doesnt move when set (looking at you mobula 7). Additionally this has perphaps the toughest 2s whoop frame I have come across with provision for individual duct replacement if required.
However between the FPV system, the stronger frame and the larger and more powerful (but heavier) 1103 motors, the TinyLeader has ended up quite heavy at 45g without battery. This can have a negative impact on battery life and propeller noise but the good new is you can fly through it. Furthermore you can still perform all the freestyle maneouvres we have come to expect from 2s brushless whoops.
The TinyLeader offers quite a different flight experience to the Mobula 7 (reviewed here) and other micros, good news being that we now have another option that may suit your style. Better yet the HD option with Caddx turtle V2 offers you a cinewhoop option right out of the box.
Full Speed have created a well thought out model here that has been fully set up out of the factory. Personally I think the weight is a little to high but after a few flights it is certainly manageable.
The TinyLeader as reviewed here is available for order presently here from Full Speed RC or here from Banggood, both ship internationally. In addition Full Speed has worked hard on distribution meaning it may well be available in your own country from a retailer.
As well as the standard model, an HD version is also available that has a Caddx turtle v2 hd cam seamlessly installed. Likewise this is available direct from Full Speed RC here or Banggood here.
All spares are available from FullSpeedRC.com and I suspect these will trickle through to retailers as well.
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The Diatone 2019 GT R249+ is one of the newest series of micro quadctopers from Diatone that is built around the Mamba mini f4 stack.
The full range from smallest to largest includes:
As you can see there is a high degree of modularity - for all except the largest they share the same 1105 5500kV motors. All sizes feature a 3mm thich carbon baseplate except for the R239 which uses and injection moulded plastic chassis and prop-gaurds. All models share the same injection moulded lightweight canopy and mamba mini f4 stack.
I've chosen to review the R249+ since my experience with micro quadcopters has lead me to believe that this is the 'sweet' spot in terms of performance and staying small and discrete when flying.
Overall look and feel
The first thing I'll say is that this is a very polished looking quadcopter. The build is well put together and includes some thoughtful parts like buzzer, spare screws, cable ties etc. although sadly only one set of propellers are included. Most impressive is perhaps the canopy that ties everything together. This is not a 3d printed canopy (like on the Leader 2.5) but an injection moulded one meaning a tidier finish and lighter weight as well as providing much more torsional strength. The design is clever and ingregrates with the quad well and includes well though-out features like the camera protection moulded in. The canopy is common across all of their 2019 GT range and is available in clear, white or black. No doubt other colours will be available later too. A quick shout out that the kit also includes 2 battery straps - these are my new favourites - lightest I've come across at a hair over 2g and 150mm long.
A closer look at the specs (my comments in red)
Wheel base: 115mm A good tight frame for 2.5" props. carbon fibre thickness is 3.0mm
Propeller: 2.5 inch. These are gemfan 2540 props, simply the best 2.5" prop available
Color: lucency / black / white
Weight: 77g This is the weight without receiver or props. Weight with receiver, props, battery strap is just under 83g.
Lipo battery: support 4S (not included) Can support 4s but I feel more comfortable with 3s on 5500kV
Flight controller: Mamba F405 mini; MPU6000; AT7456 OSD; 16M flash; 5V 1A BEC. Very pleased for this to have F4 and blackbox flash for tuning. 1 spare UART available outside those used for receiver and vtx control
ESC: Mamba F25 / 25A 4S ESC Dshot600 2-4s capable. Pleasantly suprised that this has a current sensor - my first 20 x 20mm ESC to have one.
Motor: Mamba Racing MB1105 5500KV Good kV choice for 3s. These are made by BBB (3BR) - a well recognised motor manufacturer
Camera: RunCam Micro Swift. The original micro CCD cam and still very capable. A testament to reliability
VTX: RunCam TX200U 48CH 25 / 200mW - Piggback VTX that runs off 5v. Has OSD control. Needs unlocking - more below.
Setup prior to flying
Before anything else I'd recommend unlocking the video transmitter which is a Runcam TX200U. By default this is locked to 25mW transmission power and many of the channels cannot be accessed. By holding down the button for 10 seconds you can unlock the vtx meaning all available channels plus 200mW transmission power will be available via betaflight OSD (tramp protocol).
Next you'll need to add your own receiver and I use the XM+ (FRSKY) fairly exclusively. I don't use telemetry because the XM+ has a great feature that sends RSSI over an auxilliary channel so that it can be displayed in betaflight OSD (once firmware is updated). It's cheap too - Hobbycool.com have this permanently on sale at less than $10 here. Its very easy to wire up with the flight controller already pre-wired. The receiver can then easily be stuck to the top of the flight stack thanks to the plastic cover that is included.
Lastly I've captured the default betaflight settings below both in screenshot form and as a diff file but spoiler: This tune is awful, at least the version I have. Further down in the flight section I'll show updated screens and diff file.
First flight impressions?
Awful! After getting excited that there was a custom tune I was very disappointed to find out this tune was just rubbish. I switched to stock PIDs in betaflight OSD but this was even worse. I think someone has much about with the filters meaning it oscillates like crazy, even with extremely low (single digit!) P and D values on pitch and roll.
Resetting betaflight and next flight
Before taking to the sky again I updated to betaflight 3.5.3 but more importantly, reset all the custom settings. I then followed the betaflight 3.5 tuning guide here to enable all of my favourite settings like I-term relax and RC interpolation. Screenshots on the tune below and a diff file as well.
After tuning (using Albert Kim's betaflight tuning guide) I managed to get rid of the oscillations but still have some work to do in tightening it up. All of my tuning was done with a GNB 3s 450mah battery which I feel is a good match although anything up to about 650mah 3s would offer a little more flight time without compromising performance too much. Update: I now have my final tune in the gallery above. I'm pretty happy with it on 3s. It's conservative but not osciallation or Jello. Please make sure you run PID loop at no more the 4kHz.
The first thing I noticed about this quad it how quiet it is. I think this is because it is lighter than most and props aren't spinning as fast running 3s on a mid kV motor. Although not as quick as the Leader 2.5 (reviewed here) it was a lot more gentle on the battery meaning I could get a fairly comfortable 2.5-3 minutes from the 3s 450mah battery with low and fast flying which is reasonably intensive for a battery (vs. say floaty freestyle). That said I found throttle on this very linear with plenty of thrust up high in the throttle range where I'm used to it levelling off and just making more noise. Grip, cornering is all getting familiar now and assuming nothing strikingly wrong with the quad is more down to the software setting and tune than anything else. In terms of feel thought with was really good and given I have a preference for lower kV and lighter weight this suited my tastes well.
Although I prefer this quad with 3s it can most definitely handle 4s. I used my China Hobby Line Ministar 4s 650mah battery and dropped Ps and Ds a little to compensate. It is noticeably faster but I'm not a fan of this flying style where it is hard to scrub off momentum in a corner - it essentially becomes a flying bring (albeit a very fast flying brick). I'd still recommend 4s for wider open spaces if this is your only quad and yes it will perform well but I personally think wide open spaces are more suitable for larger quads. Again this is my bias showing through but I like this R249+ best on 3s and threading through smaller and more technical gaps. If you are looking for a 4s battery for this though I'd recommend a light 4s 450mah like this one from china hobby line. Update: PIDs finalised for 4s. I did quite a bit of work with D to make sure that motors were only slightly warm with a full, hard run on 4s 650mah.
Since I unlocked the VTX above, all of my flights have been on 200mW. Performance is good but not great. At first I was really impressed by the runcam VTX but after more high throttle runs I found out that there was noise coming through at high throttle. Given the runcam TX200u runs off the 5v supplied by the flight controller, the flight controllers' BEC may well be the culprit which is typical - this is what I found with the Leader 120 when I ran the vtx off the 5v line compared to battery voltage. Unfortunately though the TX200u only runs on 5v. Don't get me wrong though, it was fine, just not as clean as the Leader 2.5 or babyhawk R
Comparison to other 2.5" micros
The 2.5" brushless micro market is now relatively crowded so it's hard to stand out. I've been lucky enough to review a number of these so feel like I am in a good position to make these comparisons. There is enough differences between them in weight and motor spec to suggest some maybe more suitable than others (particularly if you have existing batteries you wish to use) but for a large part they are interchangeable.
So you can see by comparison this is relatively light for a modern 2.5" micro, only the Leader 120 is lighter. The components on the Leader 120 are now getting rather dated (although it can be greatly improved) so will take no further part in this comparison. The 1105 5500kV Motors for the 249+ are slightly smaller and lower kV than the other modern 2.5" quads and personally I find them more suitable for a light-ish 2.5 inch propeller. I also like the fact that I can get the bulk of the performance out of it on 3s unlike the skystars bolt that really needs a 4s, although it is nice that the option is available. Although the babyhawk r pro and leader 2.5 have electronics capable of managing 4s, their motors are too high in kV to be practical here.
For me the R249+ hits a nice balance on price, weight and power meaning it's not the fastest, lightest or most powerful but it is a good balance of these which makes for respectable battery life, good performance less noise during flight. In the end you'll probably be driven more on promotional prices than any specific features here and unless you are very passionate about something specific it would be hard to argue with that reasoning. I think the last word on this would be that the quality of Diatone, FullSpeed, and EMax are somewhat on par with the Skystars bolt somewhere behind. Same goes for availability of spare parts - Fullspeed, Diatone and Emax support their products well.
2019 GT R249+ Conclusion
Diatone have done a Diatone and released a very nice quad on paper but this time at a much more competitive price than the previous 2018 GTR90. The R249+ reviewed here shares the same electronics and motors as the 1.9 inch R239 and 2 inch R249 but the 1105 5500kV motors suit this size best rather than adding unneccessary weight with the smaller-propped versions. It's a very predictible flyer that is far from slow on 3s which I this is where the sweet spot is on this quad although you can run on 4s for more speed but also more weight.
Would I recommend it? Sure it's a good quad but no better or worse that the Leader 2.5 or Babyhawk R Pro. Diatone, Fullspeed and Emax all have a strong brushless micro pedigree and resultant support for these models so that is a wash too. Really it will come to price and that will change from time to time depending on promotions so at the prices listed above. For now, the Diatone GT R249+ and Leader 2.5 look to have the best offering and for me personally the Diatone edges the Fullspeed Leader 2.5 with a faster F4 processor and motors that better suit my flying style. See my leader 2.5 review here to compare. For me the Babyhawk R pro is just too expensive AND heavy.
The Diatone GT 90 (Rabbit) R249+ is available from Banggood here as a plug and fly model
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The Mobula7 is made by Happymodel who also released the popular Snapper7 which I reviewed here. Like the Snapper 7 it is a 75mm brushless whoop but it is lighter and more importantly, designed for 2s batteries. The Mobula 7 is not the first ready to fly 2s brushless whoop to the market but it is by far and away the lightest at just 28g without battery. That means the small and light 0802 16000kV motors are able to reach their power potential even on the small 260mah batteries included in the kit and make this quadcopter move very quickly with extremely nimble handling.
Specs and breakdown
As per the instructions you'll need to bind the receiver first. Since this receiver is integrated, binding process is really easy: power on THEN hold down for bind button for 2 seconds to enter bind mode. Don't need to hold down the tiny button when powering on!!! It's a small win but a win nonetheless. Please not the receiver bind button is underneath the canopy (you'll need to remove it). The button you can see underneath the quad is for the DFU FC boot mode.
Great news that at the time of writing the Mobula 7 ships with betaflight 3.5.0 which is the latest major release. It is fully setup out of the factory although you may want to set up your own rates, OSD and anything else that is unique to you. Please see below for all factory settings in screenshot form.
Batteries and throttle limit
The mobula7 is capable of both 1s and 2s power supply. The stock batteries are 1s but are designed to be used in series. If you are looking a new batteries I'd recommend 2s 250-350mah and changing the connector to a JST or XT30. Most people seem to be having success with the following hobbyking batteries:
Turnigy nano-tech 300mah 2S 45~90C Lipo Pack
Turnigy Nano-Tech Plus 300mAh 2S 70C Lipo Pack
If you are looking at flying indoors I'd recommend against using larger 1s batteries (450-600mah) but instead use a throttle limit in betaflight. The advantages here are lower current draw and less battery sag. Putting the limit in betaflight rather than on your radio gives you better control and allows you to put throttle limits on an auxilliary switch. Full details on how to limit throttle in betaflight 3.4.0 and up here.
There has been much already said about this quads performance and it is all true. You simply cannot compare this to any brushed whoop (e.g. santa whoop) or brushless whoop that has come before, 2s makes it so much more powerful and responsive. It flies like a full sized quadcopter in terms of ability to perform freestyle moves including dives, split s, power loops except that prop wash is exaggurated due to betaflights inability to cope with this well (compared to say, NFE silverware).
Where does the mobula 7 fit?
For me you cannot beat a lightweight 1s brushed whoop running NFE sliverware in tight indoor spaces for simplicity, agility and its ability not to get confused when you bump into things. In tight indoor spaces 2s on the Mobula 7 too sensitive on the throttle unless of course you limit throttle. For outdoor flight I prefer to have no prop gaurds on micros like on my eyas x2 build. So where does the mobula 7 fit in? I think the very best scenario is a large indoor area where you can really open it up or a smaller outdoor area where people or property can be upset - reason being it is tiny, quiet and if you do happen to crash into something or someone then between prop gaurds and the extremely light weight, that something or someone is unlikely to be damaged. Furthermore I often here people asking for 1 quad that can peform in all situations - not perfect for anything in particular but capable of all. I can think of not other quad that can perform this broad role better - for example 1s brushed quads lack power for outdoor flight and ductless brushed quads will damage an inside environment.
Below is a night time flight I did that should give you a feel of the camera performance in the dark which was surprisingly fly-able. As you can see I was fairly gentle on the throtte given the lighting.
It works! So much better than the 1s brushless quads - the extra voltage from 2s means turtle mode works just as well as the bigger quads on a hard surface.
Straight up this is not a strong frame, especially if you are flying in colder weather. It is however easy to fix with flexible e6000 glue available here but I would definitely recommend a spare frame available here for only $4. Apparently Happymodel are working on a new more durable frame. In my mind frame strength is the weakpoint on this quad.
I can genuinely see why there is a lot of hype around this quad. There is no other quad available at any price that will perform capable in both tight indoors and large outdoor space so competently. But this is not any price, it is just $80-$90 depending on where and when you buy it. Yes it has shortcomings, the frame is weak, ducts handle propwash poorly the camera performance and range is limited. But the fun this quad offers and represents easily offsets those issues. My final summary is this: If I were to go on a trip and take just 1 quad for ANY situation, it would be this one.
I hope you enjoyed the review, please feel free to like or share the article on facebook or anywhere else if you found it useful.
Spares available here:
I'm not usually one to preview a product, I'd prefer to have it in from of me but I'm really excited about this one. After switching from the QX7s to the X-lite (seemy review here) I haven't looked back, to me it is better in every way EXCEPT I couldn't natively fit crossfire. I've tried this 3 print here but have never had a lot of success, in fairness because my 3d printing skills are poor. Also you will need to sortout your own wiring.
The good news for me is that Banggood have just released a JR Adapter for the X-Lite that will do just this. I love the fact that it is injection moulded. It does however look fairly 'minimalist' so not sure how it would stand up to abuse. Also the wiring solution looks fairly ugly but it may be possible to tiday this up.
Remember it wont fit into your standard case with the crossfire attached, so you'll need to remove or find a larger case for transport.
In summary I don't this this is a perfect solution by any stretch but could be good enough for those without access to a 3d printer or those who, like me are just no good at 3d printing.
The JR module adapter is available on preorder from Banggood for about $8 at time of writing. It will accept Crossfire or any other JR module.
The Leader 2.5 is a recent release from FullspeedRC and as well as being available on their own website, is also available from Banggood and Gearbest. If you do decide to purchase, Fullspeed over many more customisations and offer free shipping till Jan 2019. The Leader 2.5 follows the recent Leader 3 but is limited to 2.5 inch rather than 3 inch propellers. My objective for this blog is not to write a tradtional review due to the similarities to the Leader 3 but to cover the keys settings and physical changes I'd strongly recommend to enjoy this quadcopter.
The key differences to the Leader 3 (reviewed here) are as follows:
As you can see these differences are minimal, the key differences for flight performance will be the higher kV motors and of course the smaller propellers. It's an interesting choice that they went for an F3 rather than an F4 processor on the flight controller but for now this shouldn't make much difference especiallly if you use the F3 performance edition of Betaflight described here.
All betaflight settings as customised by fullspeedRC are shown below. I usually find this is an easier way to refer rather than looking through lines of code in the diff file (which I've also included below for completeness. As you can see this shipped with betaflight 3.3.0
A quick note on weight
Perhaps the key ingredient than made the original Leader 120 such a successful micro was it's light weight, coming in at less than 70g stock. Unfortunately the Leader 2.5 cannot keep this up largely due to the VASTLY improved camera, vtx and much larger motors. Weights with and without props are below for comparison.
Changes recommended before first flight
After the first 2 flights there are some immediate updates I'd recommend.
Next I'd recommend rotating the VTX by 180° so that the connector is at the back of the quad rather than the front, This will allow you to have better adjustment for camera angle. As you can see below I could not drop my camera angle to less than about 40° before I did this. UPDATE: I mentioned this to Lewis @ Fullspeed and they are now assembling this way.
Flight performance here is as expected and comparable with any modern 2.5" quadcopter. With 1106 7500kV motors it has a power edge over most though but you'll need good batteries to manage supply them. I'd recommend a 2s battery of around 650mah which should give you 3-4 minutes flight depending on how you fly. The GNB 3s 650mah would probably be the pick of the bunch and is available from Banggood or Gearbest amongst others.
Given I wanted to make a number of changes to betaflight settings I chose to update Betaflight to 3.5.1 performance edition (OMNIBUS target). So far I've had to dial back the P and D values around 10 points do reduce oscillations but will post PIDS here once I've refined a little more. UPDATE: New Pids for 3s and 2s below:
From testing around 50-60 packs I can say the frame is extremely strong with no signs of damage. It does a great job of protecting the camera and motors.
Below is DVR of some early flights:
In summary this quadcopter needs a few very minor tweaks out of the box for the best experience however once these are done (at very little cost) you have a very, very good 2.5" quadcopter with a strong featureset, particularly the powerful motors and VTX which allows up to 600mW transmit power and full tramp telemetry control via betaflight OSD.
Oddly the closest competition to this model is probably Full Speed's own Leader 3. Personally I do prefer the Leader 3 given the difference in retail price is only $4 and you get better props and a more capable FC out of the box. More relevant to this choice though is the motor kV and what batteries you have available. Outside of the Leader 3 though, the closest competition for the leader 2.5 is the Emax Babyhawk R Pro but at $170 retail price this is over $40 more expensive. The Leader 2.5 is a great step forward from the Leader 120 (reviewed and modded here) and brings the featureset up to date with common tech for 2018.
The Leader 2.5 is available from the following retailers that deliver worldwide:
Boldclash have recently released a new all in one plug and play fpv solution for brushed and brushless whoops called the F02H PRO following on from the F02H which I reviewed here. This includes:
What has changed?
So what makes the pro version different to the regular version? Simply put it is the VTX and the changes are impressive. Unlike practically all other whoop AIO or split cam and vtx units this one has smart audio control and the ability to adjust vtx power between pit, 25, 100 or 200mW. This is a big deal because with the advent of brushless whoops, flying longer range is more commonplace and so the extra VTX power is becoming more of a necessity. Having smart audio means that of course this adjustment can be made through your OSD which I find to be my main use for OSD VTX adjustment.
Installation is very straightforward and Boldclash do not skimp on the hardware. Included is:
Unfortunately I dont currently have a whoop running with OSD and smart audio so you will not see this in the DVR below. I can confirm I have tested both in a full sized mini quad just to confirm it is working as expected (it is).
Camera and VTX performance is on par with other good AIO cameras. Below I have included DVR from indoor during the day and outdoor at night in tricky conditions. I was actually quite impressed with night-time performance which is actually quite a useful option for whoops - with days getting shorter it is not uncommon for me to fly a whoop a night because of the lower noise levels.
Understandably this FPV unit really shines when you are pushing range limits or wanting your VTX signal to penetrate walls, trees or other object simply because it has more power output options available. 100mW was a good improvement but found 200mW to be disadvantageous on my B03-pro because I had no benefit in signal quanity because of my limited battery range and the battery life suffered on the small 260mah 1s power supply. I would think a 2s brushless whoop (like the mobula7, beta65x or beta75x would most benefit on longer runs at 200mW.
I really put this canopy through its paces and it held up to an awful lot but is not indestructable. When looping my house I lost a prop and fell 2 stories down on the corner of my deck. This cracked my canopy but left everything else functional and intact. My guess is that with more basic 3d printed mounts as I have run in the past the damage would have been much worse.
Based on my testing the F02H pro offers no real advantage to the F02H standard on a regular brushed whoop. However, given the additional smart audio and power adjustable VTX, this is a great option for brushless whoops that tend to have more battery capacity. This means the VTX can be run at higher power levels which is a definite benefit when travelling the larger distance brushless whoops with larger batteries can manage. Like the regular F02H, the canopy is excellent - durable high quality injection moulded plastic that will bold directly to practically any brushed or brushless whoop. It is a shame the camera angle is not adjustable given the speed at which you can fly the new brushless 2s whoops but this would have added complexity and weight to the current setup.
I would recommend the F02H pro for 1s or 2s brushless whoops but would probably stick with the F02H standard for brushed since it is 0.4g lighter and costs $2 less unless you really need smart audio and pit mode for racing.
The Boldclash F02H pro can be bought exclusively here from boldclash.com
To briefly cover some old ground, the Hobbymate comet 5" racing drone is a 4s/6s lightweight 5 inch quadcopter with premium components sold exclusively at HobbyCool.com It is available from $180 as a kit up to $210 pre-assembled and tuned with a frsky receiver. After seeing the high quality components used in the build and finding how easy it was to tune in the betaflight setup I have been really looking forward to flying this and I have not been disappointed.
This is the final part of my 3 part blog where I review the flight performance of the Hobbymate Comet 5" racing quadcopter. To recap part 1 is a build walkthrough and part 2 is a full betaflight setup
Starting with the power supply, the Airbot Typhoon V2.1 ESC is loaded with surface mounted capacitors and measured a total capacitance of - the highest I've ever come across on an ESC. Additionally the Omnibus F4 v6 flight controller has a special 8v circuit to run the FPV camera and VTX - unique from the 5v circuit that runs the flight controller and receiver. Combined with a LC filter this theoretically makes the cleanest power feed possible - a great start point for a strong FPV link.
The next key component in the FPV system was a complete unknown to me - the Iflight Force VTX that looks like it is made by PandaRC. It is well specced with a microphone, 0, 25, 100, 200, 400, 600mW, tramp OSD control, MMCX connector but none of this matters if it performs it's core task poorly. The good news it that it performs it's core task very well. This is the cleanest FPV link I've ever had. In fairness though you could pop practically any VTX in between that clean power supply and the excellend Foxeer Lollipop antenna and I think it would perform well. Speaking of the foxeer lollipop antenna it is compact, seemingly robust and performed well with the other components. The image always looked clean and clear in my Aomway Commander Goggles, even on high throttle with 6s drawing 105A (equivaent power to over 155A on 4s). I have included DVR below but for some reason all Commander goggles (V1 and V2) have DVR issues when diversity switches between channels - none of this showed in my gogges during flight.
As for a fundamentally racing quad I'd have no trouble recommending this FPV system - camera and signal transmission. I think even without diversity the signal strength would be just fine with 25mW on a racetrack but adding diversity and bumping up transmission power will give better performance if running behind obstacles or flying further away from yourself.
The Tune and the motors
Although I covered off the tune in the previous blog, I didn't say how I arrived where I did. Previously when I have run a stock betaflight 3.5 tune on a 6s quadcopter (this one) it had terrible oscillations and I had to lower p-gain and d-gain significantly. It was therefore a pleasant suprise to see that the stock tune on betaflight 3.5.1 was perfectly fine on the Hobbymate comet. Never being satisfied I turned on i-term relax, boosted i-gain 50% on pitch and roll, 100% on yaw as per the betaflight 3.5 tuning guide. Still no sign of oscillation so I then narrowed the dynamic filter range. Still no oscillations and motors and barely warm. I've left it there though and now have the most locked in quad I've felt - better than the pro-tuned Emax Hawk 5 which was my previous best tuned quad. This ease of tuning is largely due to the smoothness of the motors and from what I can see seems to be the way to go. All out power is great but if it means you need to run a 'looser' tune you will struggle more in the tune with more lag in the system as the result of more filtering for gyro noise etc. To a lesser extent the stiff frame will also have helped as will a reliable gyro (MPU6000) on the FC.
A full set of screenshots for the specific tune and a CLI diff file can be found in the tuning blog here. To me this quad + tune feels like it can turn on a dime with the least prop-wash I've ever had.
Power, Performance and Prop Choice
Straight up these motors are not as powerful as the Hobbymate 2207 motors (rebadged returner R3). They are however much easier to tune as I mentioned above. kV is relatively high for a 6s motor: 1800kV is the equivalent of 2700kV on 4s is is higher than the 1700/2500kV I typically run on 6s/4s respectively. This means props have to be chosen carefully. I started with the HQ 5x4.8x3 V1s but found peak current draw to be too high at 105A (power equivalent of nearly 160A on 4s!). HQ 5x4.3x3 V1s were a minor improvement at 90A so I'll probably stick with these until I get some of the new 5.1x3.1x3 V1s. It felt like the top end of the throttle was less about delivering additional thrust and more about drawing current which makes sense with a 2305 where the wider, lower stator favours torque at a lower RPM at the expense of efficiency at higher rpm. For this reason I placed a 15% scaled throttle limit on rate profile 2 in my betaflight setup section as I wrote about in the betaflight throttle scaling blog.
I'll close this section by saying that these motors are a good for the beginner - moderate/advanced level. They are powerful and easliy tunable but lack the top end punch of the race motors with taller stators. There are probably less than 10% of pilots that could genuinely take advantage of a bigger motor and these aren't likely the type of pilot that will be buying a ready to fly quad anyway.
A quick note here in that the ESC has caused no fuss whatsoever. BLHELI32 current meter was easy to tune (+25%) and no dipping during full throttle punches or any other odd behaviour. In a current ambient temperature of 20°C the hottest the ESC has gotten is a measly 32°C according to telemmetry.
The HobbyCool comet 5" frame is fairly simple. Strong, chamfered 5mm separate arms in a stretch-x layout with a sandwich lower deck and single top deck. Weight is 85g which is typical for race frames now since they have increased in weight and durabiity again since the original floss, 2.0 floss and v1 mode 2 ghost which tended to break realtively frequently. Rather than go into detail I'll sum up what I like and didn't like about the frame.
When I started this build I noted the quality of the components but I've seen many quads before that have used good components and have been overly expensive or haven't taken advantage of them (or both). I'm pleased to say that the Comet is very sharly priced at $180 for the kit AND brings these elements together for a fast, well balanced and easy to tune racing quadcopter. There will be obvious comparisons to other well prepared 5" racing quads like the Emax Hawk 5 (review here) and HGLRC Batman but these are significantly more expensive: $230-250 and $280-300 respectively. Additionally they do not support 6s out of the box either. There are a few minor cosmetic issues I have with the frame as above but outside of that, I'd recommend this as the best value racing quad presently available for beginner tomoderate/advanced pilots. Note the kit (build it yourself) is $180 or you can buy preassembled without a receiver for $200, with an XM+ receiver for $210 or with an r-xsr receiver for $220.
This is the second part of my coverage of the Hobbymate Comet 5" quadcopter. The first part (parts overview and build walkthrough) can be found here and the third part (review) can be found here. If you are here for the PIDs scroll directly to the bottom but would recommend you read through as tuning in betaflight 5 is more than just the PIDs.
Betaflight setup on this quadcopter is the same as any other but because of the telemetry, VTX OSD control, resource mapping for an ESC that is rotated it is fairly involved. For that reason I have created a betaflight 3.5.1 diff file which can be downloaded below. If you built the way that I did feel free to just load this CLI diff. If you want to read on to see what I changed specifically it's all documented in screenshots and text below. I'll assume a moderate level of betaflight understanding from the audience but happy to point out more information if needed.
My customised 3.5.1 CLI diff file is here:
this diff will change the motor output to be correct assuming you have mounted your ESC with the connector at the back (which I recommend as per build walkthrough)
These are best described by the screengrab below. Changes from stock are PWM rate increase to 48kHz for smoothness, motor direction adjusted for reverse prop direction (you will need you own values here), Auto motor timing, quiet dshot start up tone, loud shot beeper, min and max throttle adjusted for max resolution and most importantly I've used +25% to calibrate the ESC current meters correctly and have validated this number on my setup.
The Hobbymate comet is a 5" quadcopter that is sold in kit, or ready to fly forms and surpasses the Emax Hawk 5 and HGLRC Batman in specs and performance, especially running 6s natively. Better yet it is priced much more sharply. It is available exclusively from HobbyCool.com. My final review is now complete and can be found here
I'll cover this quad over 3 blogs. This first part will cover the build walkthrough, the second the software (betaflight/blheli32) setup here and the last part the flight review.
The Hobbymate Comet Kit is a premium 5" quadcopter that is currently available as a kit for $180 but will soon be available as a bind and fly version. Update: it is now available as a pre-build pnp or bnf with xm+ or r-xsr receivers. In the days since the Holybro Kopis 1 was released there have been some excellent ready to fly models (along with some not-so-great models) available including the Emax Hawk 5 (review here) and the HGLRC Batman (build here) which have been standouts because they have been well balanced, well built and good value for money overall. Since this is a kit, this particular blog is to walk you through the build and then software setup including a betaflight 3.5.1 cli diff.
The Hobbymate Comet from HobbyCool.com (or Amazon) is a kit the consists of higher quality parts than even the HGLRC Batman at only a fraction of the cost. Infact when bought on their own the parts come to $257 which is clearly much more than the $180 the kit costs (or even the $200 PNP kit). The Electronics are rated 6s from the factory (unlike the Hawk 5) and come with motors suited for either 4s/5s operation (2500kV) or 6s operation (1800kV). I'm especially excited that this include a genuine airbot ESC and flight controller. More details on the parts below:
Extra parts and recommended for the build
Firstly you will need extra parts for this build. I've used the following with links to Hobbycool as they tend to have the sharpest price:
And tools/sundry items:
On with the build
Captioned images below should walk you through the build process and I've noted anything tricky as I've gone through. Click on images to zoom.
T-mount propellers are those that are based on a 1.5mm diameter centre shaft secured by a 2mm screw either side. They have been the only mounting option for 2-2.5 inch props but are now becoming more popular for 3" due to the weight they save over a 5mm single shaft prop mount. There are only 4 different types of t-mount 3" prop currently available so I've compared them all plus the new HQ 2 blade which is due for imminent release plus a darkhorse prop in a smaller size to make up the numbers. Please note this is a subjective comparison based on my opinion but my help as a startpoint for your decision. This is based on real world feel, light time and bitter experience with motors I've burnt out.
Emax Avan 3 inch tri-blade
This is the first modern design 3 inch prop designed for a t-mount which was released with the 3" Babyhawk R (reviewed here).
HQ 3x3x3 v1s tri-blade
HQ props have the newest 3" t-mount prop design at present. This has been chosen as the stock propeller for the Full Speed Leader 3 (initial review here and flights here)
Gemfan 3035 triblade
This is quite an old prop and can be hard to find but is still suprisingly relevant.
Gemfan 3025 bi-blade
This is the original 3" t-mount prop and so can be found for sale in weird and wonderful places
HQ 3x3x2 v1s bi-blade
Just released at the time of writing: as per the 3x3x3 above but bi-blade rather than triblade. Disclaimer: I have not tested yet and below information based on assumptions from comparing bi-blades and tri-blades in general. Will update once mine arrive and I've tested.
Dark horse to consider...
Gemfan 2540 flash triblade
Yes this is a 2.5" prop but objectively it is so good it is worth considering downsizing. You can find an earlier review I did on these here and a review on the Skystars Bolt X120 which uses these on 4s here
Please note the King Kong 2840 propeller was not included here because I found the Gemfan 2540 superior in every way. Also I have not include the Rotor X 3044 because it is difficult to source where I am based. The feedback that I have had is that it is more aggressive in pitch than any of the above props and probably only suitable for for stator sizes 13xx and up.
I've had the Taranis X-Lite controller for 2 months now and in that time many reviews have been published, each adding to the information available in the public space. I have made sure I've spent a decent amount of time with this controller before writing my review and as a sneak preview I've sold my Taranis QX7s such is my impression of this controller. I've found that the universal comments that resonate with me are:
I am a thumber I don't care if I can or can't pinch
Let's face it, it's no surprise that this controller has taken design cues from console controllers to target those who have grown up with a controller in their hands. Further more it is suitable for any 'thumber' like myself where your hand naturally fall into a comfortable position with all controls and switches in close proximity. I'm all for the omission of a neckstrap because the weight, size and way you hold makes it unecessary in mind. What if you're a pincher? This review probably isn't for you because I can't empathise but there is no common opinion on whether this will suit you or not. For example two reviews I have a tremendous amount of respect for (NJTech and NickBurnsRC) have opposite ideas on suitability for pinchers. Check out their youtube reviews for more. All I can say is that it is excellent and feels natural for someone who has only ever been a thumber.
Open TX is the operating software
The Taranis X-Lite runs open TX which is the most common transmitter software in FPV (The Flysky Nirvana and new Jumper Radios use open TX too). The X-lite runs the latest version 2.2.2 and find navigating easier than on the X9d or QX7 with the new 'nub' control. I won't cover Open TX here but for those familiar with the system there are no surprises here. The latest version of Open TX for the X-Lite can be found here
I now have a better appreciation for the battery size
When the X-lite was first released everyone was upset about it using 18500 batteries instead of the more commonly available 18650. 18500 batteries were not as common but have now popped up in most stores like Gearbest, Banggood, Piroflip etc. Since battery shipping is still dicey I found an option to use "AA" sized 16500 batteries in my X-lite in this blog. I can now appreciate FRSKY's no compromise approach to choosing the 18500 over the 18650 - it is much more compact especially when considering the batteries used in the QX7 and X9D. Below is a picture of how the X-lite would have looked if they'd gone with 18650 batteries - awkward. Here is the link to thingiverse however if you wish to print.
It is so portable!
Unfortunately the thumbing/pinching has dominated discussion on this transmitter (at least in reviews) that many tend to gloss over what I believe is the strongpoint that sets it aside from most controllers out there - it is very small and very portable. My last controller was a Taranis QX7s which is up until recently has been the most popular transmitter, particularly in the cheaper QX7 form. Although it is an excellent controller, it is large in size (especially if you fly mostly micros!) and it is not especially robust, particularly the auxilliary switches. Really it needs to go in a protective case first and then in your backpack where it tends to take up most of the room. In contrast the X-Lite is small and even if you use the protective case it still doesn't take up much room. Furthermore the Aux switches are smaller, stiffer and overall stronger meaning if you can find a way of protecting gimabls and the screen you could chuck this straight in your backpack without any other protection. Gimbal protection is included but these are loose and would easily come off if the controller was placed directly in your bag. I've recently ordered the "Realacc Stick Rocker Protector & Screen Guard For FrSky Taranis X-Lite" from Banggood which is a 3d printed minimalist gimbal - screen - joystick protecter that *should* allow me to place this directly on the bag and leave a helluva lot more room.
It's worth noting the space and portability was a big reason I preferred Aomway Commanders over box goggles (blog here) and saving room with transmitter is similarly important now I know firsthand what a benefit this is to me.
It takes time to adjust but performs really well
It's no lie saying that my flying was significantly worse than usual when I started out with the X-lite because it felt unfamilar. Yes the gimbals are smaller and yes the have shorter throw. What this meant in the first few packs there was a lot of over correction because it makes you feel like you are running higher rates. Don't adjust any settings though because your brain will adjust and correct. Now I genuinely prefer the X-Lite after this adjustment phase becaue I could never reach full deflection comfortably with the QX7s but can with the X-Lite - I get to make use of the entire gimbal. Bottom line - stick with it, it will feel awful at first but you'll soon come right.
And on to the switches - they are bloody brilliant. They have a much more positive 'click' than other taranis radios and much shorter length meaning no accidental switch flicks plus they will be way more robust (I broke several switches on the QX7s). All four are much easier reach from your index fingers. The practical outcome for me is a can disarm just off the ground during landing rather than trying to land, boucing because of airmode and the disarming... a minor quibble no doubt but definitely still an advantage. There are 4 switches in total - top left and right are 3-way and bottom left and right are 2-way. You can swap these out for other variants including momentary switches if you want. Lastly there are 2 slider style potentiometers (pots) for progressive rather than binary control over gimbals, servos and the like. For most FPV quadcopters these will not be used.
It has a proprietary expansion port
Historically most modern radios including the Taranis range (X9D, QX7) have used the JR expansion port for additional functionality. This includes multiprotocol modules such as the MTX9D and IRange-X IRX4 Plus for control over other receivers and the TBS Crossfire module for a long-range 900MHz control link. For reasons that are becoming clearer now this has changed on the X-Lite. The module is smaller in size and profile and is unique to the X-Lite. At this stage only 3 modules fit the X-lite - the Vantax MPM Lite multiprotocol module, the IRange-X IRX4 Lite multiprotocol module and the FRSKY R9M slim long-range 900MHz control link. The TBS crossfire modules do not physically fit BUT since the pin out is the same, some clever cookies have made 3d print designs that allow the crossfire module to connect to the X-Lite ableit a little ungracefully. As a side note I have a $6 multiprotocol module that I will look to adapt to my X-Lite in order to control my NFE silverware bayang protocol micro brushed quads.
It's really easy to recommend this to a thumber
For a long time there was a lot of hype around project dark knight (now FLYSKY Nirvana) which was due to be the spiritual successor to the Turnigy Evolution. However, the Taranis X-Lite has come out of nowhere with a set of features comparable to the best Taranis controllers in a smaller package at an extremely competitive price and so has kind of knocked the stuffing out of the Nirvana launch. It's a simple upgrade for many in the FRSKY ecosystem because we can use the same receivers which on the whole are the smallest, cheapest and best performing - e.g. the XM+ with excellent range at aroung 1g can be had for around $9 at Hobbycool. The controller is so easy to like and obviously a lot of work has been put in by FRSKY to make this an extremely competitive price - it is only $20 more than their entry level QX7 and includes the much more expensive Hall-effect gimbals as standard rather than an upgrade part.
If you are a thumber or are coming from a game controller I would recommend this highly as a first (and last) controller. Likewise I would strongly recommend this as an upgrade from any other controller especially if you are looking for better portability.
Quick note on the FLYSKY Nirvana
This looks like an excellent controller but is $40 to $50 more expensive that the X-Lite. It has support for a standard sized Crossfire module, better grip options for pinchers and a more colourful touch screen display. It is bigger though - closer to the QX7 in size than the X-lite. If these things are important to you, consider the Flysky Nirvana but if they are not (like for me) then go with the X-lite if you are looking for a console controller style of remote. One potential downside of the Nirvana is that is uses flysky receivers by default which have historically been lacking in features (RSSI, Telemetry) and range although this will supposedly be rectified soon. If you have come from FRSKY though it would mean a full set of new receivers rather than just a re-bind.
Please note this Taranis X-Lite was kindly provided by Gearbest.com. If you find this review help you in your decision to purchase, please consider purchasing from them at this link
Accessories currently available for the X-Lite
Note: Any replacement parts can be purchased from HORUSRC.com
The Hobbymate D6 Pro Duo is quite simply this is the most complete charger I've come across. Up until very recently the charger I have been using most is the ISDT D2 smart charger than can charge up to 6s lipos x2 at a time on separate channels. This has been and excellent charger and the allowance for charging 2 batteries at a time (entirely independently) means that I have no used my balance board since I got it. User interface is very simple and it is a joy to use but there is a glaring omission - it only has AC in put meaning although it can be directly powered from a wall plug, it cannot be powered from a DC (battery) source when you are travelling or have no access to AC power. I'm happy to say the the Hobbymate D6 Dup Pro addresses this and allows you to power and charge from a dc source ranging in 6.5v - 30v meaning you can power from a 2s to 6s lipo/li-ion or a car battery for example.
It's fair to say there is more than passing resemblance to the ISDT D2 as you can see in the image above - the interface although different graphically is almost identical on a functional level. Menus are simple and intuitive as is the way you navigate - a click wheel that is mounted horizontally rather than vertically on the ISDT. The menu and options are a little more extensive in this charger as you can see below. The wireless mobile phone charge is a nice touch but for me at least I haven't had a wireless charging-ready mobile for some time. If I did though I often have my phone floating around when I'm charging lipos so probably makes sense.
In use it works as expected. There are 3 simple modes for your battery - charging, discharging and storage. A very wide range of voltages are available for each mode meaning you can charge, discharge or store rechargable batteries with any chemistry (e.g. Lipo, LiFe, NiMH, NiCd, Lead Acid etc.). The charger will automatically balance each cell in any mode up to 6s as you'd expect. It's easy to adjust current to suit your needs up to 15A on each channel meaning you could easily run 2 parallel boards at a time if you wanted. Current adjust is also available after you have started charging.
I've been using the Hobbymate D6 pro duo for about 2-3 months now and it has become my charger of choice to to flexibility. For the most part I no longer bother with the stress of parallel charging and matching voltages with 2 independent charging channels but with 15A available per channel it is easy to do so. You'll find that many reviewers in the community including Joshua Bardwell and Kabab FPV have also reviewed this charger with a similar conclusion - it simply does everything that is asked of it. It has clearly taken inspiration from the ISDT D2 but they have innovated with additional functionality without losing any of the intuitive functions of the ISDT D2 meaning that they look to have improved on an already excellent product. This charger is made by Hobbymate (HobbyCool) and they are starting to get a number of local retailers but I'd recommend buying from the source at HobbyCool.com here: http://hobbycool.com/d6-duo-pro-ac-dc-battery-charger-w-wireless-smartphone-charging/
Tiny whoops have firmly cemented themselves as a bonafide class of FPV flight. Racing is held indoors and can be run irrespective of weather and is very popular as a dedicated series rather than just something you do when the weather is rubbish. The beauty is that if you only want to do it when the weather is rubbish it is not expensive and you can have a great FPV experience even at the lower end of the scale which you can add to if you feel like it. Last year I wrote a series on the E011 whoop using a budget camera and F3 flight controller (part 1 and part 2 blogs) but in this review I'll cover the Boldclash B03 Pro which has better control as a stock quad, devilishly simply to convert to FPV and offers something for rate mode flight that is superior in performance to Betaflight or Butterflight.
The B03 Pro whoop
The Boldclash B03 Pro is a tiny whoop style quad made by boldclash and features the 716 size motor (7mm diameter, 16mm long) which is now generally recognised as a superior size to the earlier 615 motors for performance and flight time on 31mm props. It is generally similar to the Eachine E011 except in cowl design, transmitter and flight controller. This last bit is particularly important as I'll get to later. It can be bought with either 1 x 300mah battery or 3 x 300mah batteries - larger than the 260mah included with the E011. The set of spares included is basic - screwdriver, 1 spare set of spare props, a prop removal tool and a basic USB charger.
I'll assume you, the reader here is somewhat familiar with quads so in order to keep this review concise will focus on the similarities and differences between this and comparable tiny whoop style quads. First of all I'll note that the B03 Pro compared to the earlier (now obsolete) B03 standard does not have the psuedo altitude-hold mode - the controller operates the same as any other mode 2 controller.
Flight performance is comparable with the E011 which makes complete sense - same motor size, similar weight similar battery size. What heavily weighs in the B03 pro's favour though is that the highest rate mode allows a much greater angle than the E011 meaning much faster forward flight and better rates in general. The B03 pro battery has approximately 15% more capacity meaning that flight times are up about 15-30 seconds but flight-time repleatability is difficult here.
The transmitter is slightly larger than the E011 model but otherwise comparable: toy-style gimbals and basic trim control as well as a 'flip over' button and a button that cycles your rates. I'll mention here that this runs the Bayang protocol which means that you can use your full size remote to run with a cheap multiprototcol module $7 for a FRSKY compatible one from Banggood and the same price for one comparible with a FLYSKY controller at Banggood. Alternatively the Jumper radios (I can recommend the T8SG V2.0 plus) are all compatible with baked in multiprotocol. Interesting fact that Bayang protocol has much lower latency than Frsky, Flysky or even Crossfire...
If you go no further than just buzzing around line of sight then this is a great little quad - solid performance from a ducted brushed micro quad with good battery life and only $17 with one battery or my recommendation is $23 with 3 batteries. We're not here for line of sight though and where Boldclash really stands out is their genuinely plug and play option for FPV. Which brings me to the...
BoldClash F02H FPV - The most complete FPV whoop solution I've ever come across
FPV whoops have the jankiest camera mounting solutions you ever seen - 3d prints that fully expose the delicate camera, rubber bands, double sided tape. I've tried them all and get between 1-5 crash landings before I have to reassemble it or replace the camera/vtx unit due to damage. Sadly this is even the case with my beloved santa whoop as you can see below. Vacuum formed cowls like the one developed bu NotFastEnuf (Shanghai mullet) or the one by BetaFPV improve camera protection greatly but still don't positively mount the camera. The Boldclash F02H fixes all of this by using a purpose build canopy that exactly fits the Boldclash F02 separated camera/VTX and that alone. The result is a unit that is built as one and is very positively mounted and bolts down exactly to the mounting points of any tiny whoop-style quad. Things go one better with the Boldclash B03 pro though where it plugs into the main board. To install:
The finished unit weighs just 5.5g which is very reasonable considering it includes a full cowl. Vtx channel buttons are easily accessble with a button integrated into the canaopy and there is direct provision for video in/out if you wish to use a FC that supports Betaflight OSD. The Angle is fixed at 10° which is very common for whoops. The camera will run down to 2.9v meaning you do not need to run an up-regulator; 1s vbat is just fine. Since the camera vtx is based on a split board it is much lower profile that the BetaFPV cowl, Shanghai Mullet or even the UR65 cowl which I use as well.
Video performance is good - comparable with the VM275t and other more recent AIO cams that I run. It's 48ch/25mW fixed which is pretty much the norm and signal range is no better or worse than anything else I run. I do like that it is switchable PAL/NTSC as I prefer the extra resolution of PAL but I know others prefer the slghtly higher NTSC refresh. I can't recommend this unit enough. It seems more expensive at $20 but it is so sleek, clean and durable that I can see it lasting a heck of a lot longer than anything else I've used so far.
I'll clip this blog here as this is where you may want to stop if you are just want a cheap basher that performs well using the included toy remote or your own with multiprotocol. In the next blog (which I'll link here when available) I'll cover more powerful CM03 insane 19000kV motors and most importantly the upgrade to NotFastEnuf silverware - this particular flight controller lends itself to flashing with this particular firmware that outperforms anything betalfight, butterflight or inductrix is capable of. It is not an easy process though so will keep this to the next blog.
If you haven't yet seen the first part of my Leader 3 (SE) review, click here. In it I cover an overview of the New Leader 3 including full discussion of the components, build and software setup. A quick correction too: I mentioned originally that the flight controller (namely the gyro) will only do 8kHz loop times. This is incorrect - it will actually run up to 32kHz! Certainly the first I'm aware of on a board this size and something for me to test in future.
Before I go any further I should note that my Leader 3 is a review model and so there may be minor improvements in the final version shipped to buyers. I'm in regular contact with Full Speed RC to give them feedback on what I find to assist with these improvements. The Leader 3 is available directly from FullSpeedRC.com, Gearbest or Bangood.
Since FPV performance is common between 3s and 4s I thought I'd cover that first. In short it is outstanding. Fullspeed RC shared a lot of the development of the included TX600 vtx with me an a lot of effort went in to ensuring a clean video signal all the way up to 600mW and the results sure doesn't disappoint. The result is that the Leader 3 has the cleanest video signal I have every used. There is absolutely no impact of throttle or other electrical noise on signal and it is hard to put in words just how much more enjoyable this makes the signal. I do miss the audio that AKK VTXs allow for but most people don't rate this as being important, especially on a micro. It's noteworthy that the the transmission power will go as high as 600mW - equalled only by the AKK FX3 ultimate (review here) in this form factor. OSD control of settings via Tramp works as expected. Antenna connection is via UFL is common for micros and fit for purpose.
No propellers in FPV view
Great news for those who don not like seeing their propellers - the frame design means that even with fairly modest camera angles of around 35°and up there are no props in view. Hopefully this is clear from my videos below. This also make the drums for a Caddx Turtles HD camera install beat even louder...
I wanted to clear things up on camera angle since Nick Burns mentioned it couldn't go past about 45° in his otherwise excellent review. I can confirm that the camera connector does not foul on the flight stack and does infact smoothly go all the way up to about 90° amgle. Pictures are best here so please see below:
Performance on 3s
When the Leader 3 was shipped to me, 2 custom PID prodiles were programmed in by fullspeed, Profile 1 was designed for 3s and profile 2 for 4s. 3s was tested with profile 2. Both of these profiles can be seen in full in part 1 of the review here. For 3s testing I used Turnigy Nanotech 3s 450mah 65c batteries. They weigh less than 45g meaning all up weight was around 140g. Flight time using these batteries was typically around 2.5-3 minutes with batteries coming to a resting voltage of arounf 3.75v per cell.
Flying exclusively with the HQ 3x3x3 propellers flight felt very 'balanced' - what I mean by that is the quad didn't feel overly heavy (or light), top speed was fast enough but not ludicrously fast like the Skystars Bolt X120 on 4s (review here). It was however very predictable - I could hit gaps and avoid obstacles in a way where I felt I had complete control. It was fairly similar to the way the Emax Babyhawk R 3 inch felt (review here) but the HQ props felt more predictable and familar compared to the EMAX Avans. This makes sense - both the Leader 3 and Babyhawk R are of similar weight and with 1106 4500kV motors on 3 inch props and both have optimised PID tunes. Full Speed RC seem to have done a good job on the tune here not just for the feel during flying but also in keeping propwash to a minimum, even when I tried to put myself in dirty air in 180° turns or descending directly down.
Below is a video from an early flight (2nd pack ever) in a local carpark. Typical I had DVR issues in a flight later that day where I'd gotten more familiar with the flight characteristics :/
Performance on 4s
The battery I used for all 4s testing was the China Hobbyline Ministar 4s 650mah pack. It is an excellent battery that I even use on my 4 inch racer so is very capable although a little heavy at 87g.
First of all I'm going to talk about straight up speed and my perception. It did not feel as fast as the Skystars Bolt X120 using the same battery. This is not an objective measure, purely feel. It did feel faster than the Babyhawk R 3" using the same battery.
To dig in to this further though I do need to say that that Skystars Bolt X120 is very hard to control with this battery and I did not enjoy flying it because it felt difficult to control. It felt like it needed more open space which then kinda defeats the purpose of a micro. By comparison the Leader 3 felt in complete control using 4s and PID profile 2 as customised for 4s by Full Speed RC. As a result it felt right at home on 4s with all the control and balance I felt on 3s. I think part of this is due to tune but moreso that that larger 3 inch blade is able to better support the additional weight from the heavier pack and hasn't overloaded the propeller (disc loading theory).
All other features of flight were similar to 3s - excellent video, precise handling and minimised propwash. I was really enjoying flying this until...
When I first received this model, Full Speed RC cautioned me to use 4s using the smaller Gemfan 2540 props (review here) since motors could overheat. Since I was the only reviewer to receive mine where it is winter presently rather than summer, this was less of an issue although I did keep an eye on motor temps. For this reason I stuck with the included 3 inch props for 4s.
About 10 packs in of warm motors (40-50°C only) I fell out of the sky when attempting a short speed run (see video below). On closer inspection the left rear corner had failed that I could later confirm as a motor failure (as opposed to ESC). The motor definitely was warm only as above and not hot. The only other time I've had a motor failure was on the babyhawk r when I used PIDs with too much P and D on 4s and even then the motor did not fail mid flight, rather afterwards intsead. This motor was scorching hot.
I discussed this with Full Speed RC and found that they will be using a stronger motor on the production version - the review version like I have are a prototype. As you can see below when comparing to my burnt out motor on the Emax Babyhawk R, the Fullspeed one does not look nearly as abused - it failed at a much lower load. Interestingly shortly after this I saw Andy RC's review and found he had an identical problem - motor failed mid run using 4s with HQ 3x3x3 props. Update: The prototype motors are actually 4800-4900kV and the production version will be 4500kV.
So, what does this mean for you? Until I can confirm that Fullspeed RC have moved away from the proptotype motors I can't recommend using the HQ 3x3x3 props with 4s, even in cold weather. For now stick with Gemfan 2540 props on 4s. Of course if it ships with new motors then all bets are off. Full Speed RC is sending me a full set of new motors so I will test with these and post my results in a follow up review as soon as I am able. Update: The prototype motors are actually 4800-4900kV and the production version will be 4500kV.
The Full Speed RC Leader 3 is as an excellent flyer on 3s - great video signal and predictable handling make for an enjoyable flying experience. On 4s the Jury is out... custom pids make this fly well too but the motors' inability to cope with the included 3" props are a bit disappointing. For now a bandaid solution is to run with Genfan 2540 props on 4s but I expect that Full Speed will release with a stronger motor for launch as they did with the original Leader 120. Again, my sample is a reviewer model and this feedback is used to make changes if needed to the final launch product. Full Speed RC has proven themselves to be a reputable company with well researched (and tested) quadcopters and I expect them to follow through on this model too.
This review has been kindly written by @fpv_airborne who is looking to become a regular contributor here.
Introducing the 30x30 HGLRC vtx + dvr combo from HGLRC. This is one of the first 30x30 DVR recording vtx available to the public. The DVR is switchable for 40 channels, has power levels of 25mw, 100mw, 200mw, and 500mw, and has a built-in DVR which takes up to a 32gb SD card. This board also includes a built-in microphone that records onboard sound. The vtx has a resolution of 640x480 which is reasonable for DVR recording. The HGLRC AIO VTX DVR can be bought directly from HGLRC here or from your favourite vendors including Banggood and Gearbest. It's about $40 at the time of writing (July 2018).
A closer look at the specs.
The HGLRC vtx has changeable power levels that include pit mode, 25mw, 100mw, 200mw and 500mw. It also includes 40 channels to connect to your goggles such as A band, B band, Fat Shark and R band. The board measures 36mm x 36mm, with the mounting holes 30.5mm apart. The built-in DVR has a slot under the board to accommodate an SD card up to a 32gb. This records 640x480p quality video with no static or breakup while flying FPV and this is what really sets it apart from goggle DVR. The vtx weighs just 7.9 grams and is the same size and thickness as a 30x30 mounting flight controller.
The HGLRC VTX + DVR combo works much better than expected. The small, thin board allows for easy mounting on top of or underneath the flight controller or power distribution board. The easy plug-in and -out MMCX antenna adapter also works much better than the UFL connector which was the main connector used on many types of vtx’s such as TBS unify pro and Tramp vtx. The MMCX adapter is much more durable and sturdy because of the plug-in design instead of the clip-on adapter; the latter can easily pop off during a crash and may not be easily noticed. This in turn can cause major issues such as burning out of the vtx, poor video and overheating and/or ruining other components on the stack.
From my first flight with the vtx + DVR combo I was impressed. The vtx was flawless to set up with clear instructions. Included with the vtx is a manual that includes a diagram of the vtx, wire layout, power levels and bands, and “How to's”.
The manual explains how to set up the vtx including how to wire up and how to change through power levels, bands and channels; this uses only 2 buttons that are nicely placed on the side of the board. Briefly pressing the channel side button once changes the channel from 1 up to 8, whereas pressing the button for 2 seconds changes the band from A band up to F band. Pressing the button for 4 seconds changes the power levels from 25mw up to 500mw. The DVR recording is set up by inserting an SD card (up to 32gb). Then briefly press the “REC” button and wait for the red LED beside the button to start flashing, indicating that recording has started. Once you are done with your videoing, just press the “REC” button again which will stop and finish the current DVR recording. Note that the DVR will automatically stop recording after 5 minutes.
Experience during flight:
As soon as I placed the goggles on my head, I was surprised to see the difference in colour compared to my other vtx, a TBS unify pro. The video quality seemed much more saturated and warmer in sunny areas and darker in shaded areas. This was seen partially in the FPV feed but was much more noticeable in the DVR recording after footage was reviewed. I was previously using a TBS unify pro with Foxeer antenna and Foxeer Predator v1 mini that gave images of more natural colour, but once I switched to the HGLRC dvr vtx, the quality of the image improved. I understand that not everyone will prefer the warmer, more saturated colours. If so, this can be changed with the camera’s OSD cable.
However, while flying I noticed that there was far less static in the goggle view from the HGLRC vtx compared to the TBS unify pro vtx. Both were running 25mw, and both had the same Foxeer antenna, Foxeer Predator camera, and flight controller. I was surprised to notice this difference but it was quite obvious in my test flights of both quads at the same location and under the same conditions. Because of the built-in DVR, there is no static or break-up which makes the video much more pleasing for the viewer to watch.
In conclusion, I would recommend this vtx to people who want to build a light racing quad with quality DVR footage for their races - but without need to add the extra weight of a GoPro. This DVR vtx board can also replace the more expensive Runcam split for most people, if you do not mind the loss of quality but want to have as little delay to the FPV feed as possible; in racing every millisecond counts.
However, there are some issues in terms of possible human error to be considered before purchasing this vtx.
Firstly, if your quad flies far away without control, or crashes in long grass, in high trees, in a different property or even unplugs in mid-air, the video feed, that was recording, is not accessible to review to locate where the quad has landed or crashed because the SD card is in the quad and not the goggles.
Secondly, after the races you might forget to stop the recording by pressing the button on the vtx, and instead just unplug the quad’s power lead. With the battery lead unplugged, the video will be cancelled leaving no trace of the recording on the SD card. This is because unlike goggles, the vtx-dvr unit has little capacitance to keep the circuit charge while recording is finalised.
The HGLRC AIO VTX DVR can be bought directly from HGLRC here or from your favourite vendors including Banggood and Gearbest.
AKK bring out new products at an amazing rate, particularly VTXs which are their core product. They tend to go through stepwise rather than stepchange product development where they make gradual improvements to already good products - the opposite of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' which is a say I HATE. Best of all they do this at an extremely competitive price which is possible only because they tend to sell direct rather than go through a third party. Don't worry they ship at zero cost or very little and are available on Amazon. I've already reviewed the excellent FX2 (30.smm stack) here and have installed the original FX3 (20mm stack) here on a 4 inch lightweight build.
Features as listed
The product I am reviewing today is the AKK FX3 Ultimate which builds on the AKK FX3 as mentioned above. Key features are:
I wanted to do a rebuild of my FlexRC Komori (original build here) as an efficient longer range quad so this was the perfect product to use - full control with smart audio, 20mm stack mounted for extra security and up to 600mw power for improved range. Having audio on longer range is highly underated too since you can hear if anything is suspect with your props or motors long after you've gone out of range of direct sound. To summarise install was painless. I prefered the solder pads to the connectors on the FX3 and the stack mount means I can get a super reliable and secure mount without reverting to doublesided tape or cable ties. I love having the option of UFL or MMX in this size. See below for images and specific commentary on the install - click to embiggen.
Like my tooth fairy and floss 2 builds I've used the Realacc UXII Stubby RHCP MMCX-J 5.8GHz 1.6dBi Super Mini Short Antenna here. It is a $6 right or left handed CP 1.6g antenna that is plugged into and supported by the MMCX connector if the frame allows. For me these are a super clean solution - no long pagoda or cloverleaf stalks or even dipole whips that need extra supports. Even the AXII ufl requires more room and a 3d print support. Reception is 'good enough' given the benfits I get. Other connectors and formats are available.
I fly with Aomway Commander goggles (review here). Reception is good enough for me but not a good as some of the stand-alone modules that are available for Fatshark goggles. I found the signal to be clear and static free when in line of sight and got fairly minimal break up with behind trees which lessened as I ramped the power up. I used the Aomway Clover for omni directional and the RealAcc patch for directional (review here).
I can confirm there are absolutely no issues with Smart Audio on Betaflight 3.3 and 3.4 and adjusted bands, channels and power without issue. The vtx it replaced from the origianal Furibee X140 (review here). This VTX transmitted video well be had no audio, no smart VTX, a very awkward button/LED interface and a direct solder connection only for the antenna. The FX3 not only brought more transmission power options but also added a lot more convience - I would choose to never change channel or power previously now I frequently change to suit the conditions. Also the option of using UFL is excellent because for micros this is typically a more suitable connector given space constraints. I'm just lucky that the Komori frame has the stack mounted close to the back for the UXII antenna with good clearance.
See below for a DVR of my flight running 200mW.
AKK pricing strategy?
From what I can tell AKK run on very tight margins akin to RCX motors at MYRCMART. This means that they only sell direct since there is not a lot of margin available for resellers and so the prices are very low for the feature set. For example the retail price of this unit is only $18. Nothing gets close to this price for the feature set. Furthermore at the time of writing, AKK have a sale on, meaning it is available for only $16
The AKK FX3 Ultimate is simply the most feature packed 20mm vtx available at time of writing. It is also the first 20mm sized VTX to offer 600mW maximum power and options for MMCX AND ufl connections. It is simple to install and maintain with direct solder connections and the standard stack size mound means it is very simple and secure in your build. I can happily recommend this for new build or replacing an older VTX that doesn't have the full feature set you want.
The Leader 3 (SE) is a follow up to the hugely successful Leader 120 which I have reviewed and documented modification extensively, most recently with a summary here. Both are available from Fullspeedrc.com This has been a highly anticipated release not least of which because there has been no releases from Full Speed since last years' Beebee 66 light. The good news is that a big chunk of that wait has been spent working on the Leader 3. FYI two of the main guys are pilots from Full Speed RC are pilots and do a lot of work testing before release which is a welcome change in this hobby compared to many models that come out half-baked.
Firstly the Leader is available in 2 variants. The standard model (Leader 3) can be seen below and weighs 87g with regualar standoffs. The Leader 3 SE is exclusive to Fullspeedrc.com and comes with a 3d printed canopy instead of the standoffs. It is 6g heavier but offers several benefits that I'll cover a little later on.
A run through the components
First the frame. Like the Leader 120 the base plate of the frame is 3mm thick although it has been stretched to 130mm motor to motor diagonally rather than 120mm This means it is capable of accepting a true 3" propeller rather than 2.8" maximum on the Leader 120. The frame is most definitely still a 'deadcat' shape meaning the two motors are further apart (107mm) than the 2 rear motors (98mm). Additionally it is a 'squashed-x' compared to a 'stretched-x' meaning the front and rear motors on the same side are closer together. This means it should be more stable in the roll vs. pitch axis but modern flight software somewhat negates this. Compared to the leader 120, sideplates have increased from 2mm to 3mm thick which should aid durability. More imporatantly a 19mm gap rather than 17-18mm means the leader 3/SE now natively fits a 19mm micro cam. It's worth nothing that the baseplate is only 1 piece so you cannot replace single arms. Personally I think replaceable arms are unnecessary on any quad size less than 4" since there is much less leverage for breaking on a smaller quad. The frame can be purchased separately here.
The canopy (Leader 3SE only). When I first saw the canopy I wasn't keen because it adds 8g weight however I think the functionality may just offset that - jury is out until I fly it some more. The 3d TPU print is of very high quality available in black,white, red, purple, blue or yellow and performs the following functions:
The motors are 1106 4500kv which is the same specs as those found on the Emax Babyhawk R 3 inch and the Skystars X120. They are not open bottom and have mounting holes for regular t-mount props and the emax 2.3" avan props. Most importantly they are rated for up to 4s.
Like the original Leader 120, build quailty is excellent. Solder is clean, wires are cut to length. Not much more to say here, it is well beyond my ability! With the quad assembled there is plenty of room behind the camera to adjust tilt (45° and beyond are capable) and the receiver is mounted in this void. with plenty of room left yet. This is speculation but I'd like to address anyway since it seems like a common thread: my best guess is the caddx turtles HD FPV/DVR (not yet released at time of writing) will fit but not without a little modification. My reasoning is that there seems to be 2-3mm 'spare' room between each stack layer. If these standoffs are trimmed by this amount you will be able to save 6-9mm in height which should be enought to fit the turtles board. It will require some fine wire management and a steady hand to trim the standoff but I do think it may be physically possible - a project for another day. That being said, the double stack of the runcam split micro definitely will not fit.
Plenty to talk about here although most can be foundin commentary of the Betaflight screens below. If you don't choose to read these however:
Final thoughts pre-flight
As you can see from above this looks to be a very well thought out quad and not something slapped together from a spare parts bin. The Babyhawk R and Skystars bolt X120 have both shown that 1106 4500kV motors perform well on 4s in 2.5" and 3" so I am excited to see what the Leader 3SE will add here with all the work that has gone into development from a hardware and software perspective. On paper this looks to have the edge on both of those models in terms of weight, VTX capability and ESC current overhead however the real test will come in flight - stay tuned for part 2 of this review where I will cover flight in full - I already have 3s and 4s batteries charged for tomorrow :)
The Fullspeed RC Leader 3/SE can be bought directly from Fullspeedrc.com and is also available at other retailers however buying from the source is your best chance to get your hands on one quickly.
This review has been kindly written by @fpv_airborne who is looking to become a regular contributor here.
Introducing the HB64
The HB64 64mm micro brushless quadcopter is available as a plug and fly kit from HobbyCool.com with either 14000kV or 16000kV 0603 motors. This review is based on the 16000kV variant and is my pick of the 2. It is just 1mm smaller than a traditional brushed tiny whoop but has much more powerful motors. It is 11mm smaller motor to motor than the brushless Happymodel Snapper7 (review here). I am happy to say that the HB64 has impressed me very much!
The HB64 brushless quad has a 4 in 1 esc and a F3 flight controller onboard. The 4 in 1 esc is rated to 5A and is Dshot compatible and has BLHeli_S configured onto it. These days, we are seeing several companies who are making AIO FC combo with built in esc but this stack seems to work very well. Added unnecessary weight is a big issue for micros but the HB64 weighing in at only 24 grams without battery or 30 grams all up including battery. This weight is impressive knowing all that is included. 4 in 1 esc, FC, battery, motors, props, frame and cam/vtx combo.
The camera/vtx combo works much better than expected. It has a discrete monopole/whip antenna just from vtx to top of frame pod. This antenna is great for the quad because of its extremely light weight. It is also unlikely to be broken because there is little surface area of the antenna to hit objects in crashes. This is an improvement from the original tiny whoops which had the cloverleaf antennas that are easily bendable and breakable.
The instructions that come with this micro quad are insufficient for the full setup of this quad. Included with my quad, there was a little sheet which had a diagram and labeling of the FC. This diagram only showed the FC and nothing else like the 4 in 1 esc, VTX diagram or receiver setup. Even though there is information on Google, it would have saved a lot of time and effort for the buyer to receive more extensive instructions. To that end I have spent some time here documenting what has worked in case others are looking for this information.
I was pleased to find that the betaflight firmware was fully setup with Betaflight 3.2 and only needs to be bound to the transmitter to be ready to fly. The pids and (ALL) settings have been adjusted to suit the quad. All that needs to be done is to bind the receiver to the quad, setup switches for arm etc. in the receiver tab and you’re ready to fly!
While I was setting up switches, after I setup arm, I also set up ‘flip over after crash’ which is a MUST for anyone that crashes a lot because it prevents those awkward walks of shame to rescue your quad. To use flip over after crash, just switch the switch which is assigned to flip over in the receiver’s tab and then arm using the arm switch, tilt the pitch or roll depending on the angle and objects around the quad until the quad is upright, then disarm both switches and re-arm the arm switch. You will then be upright and ready to rip again!
Since I run a Flysky radio, I used a small FS-RX2a pro receiver but the SBUS-based FRSKY receivers will work in the same manner. To set up the FS-RX2A Pro receiver, all that is required is the receiver to be soldered to FC by the GND, 5V and ibus. Then hold the bind button on the receiver while powering on from lipo. Now turn on the transmitter and go into bind mode and that's it! As simple as that and it is bound together. This receiver only works for flysky transmitters but works amazingly well for the purpose and size it is. Next step is to go into betaflight and make sure the serial based receiver (SBUS AND IBUS receiver) is selected and Sbus or ibus in configurators tab, Then in receivers tab, select switches for arm and I strongly recommend you try flip over after crash and beeper in case it is lost or hidden behind something because this quad is surprisingly easy to lose behind a cabinet etc.
Finally a good flying micro brushless!
Before I saw this I was hesitant to try another micro build after my previous Eachine H8 with AIO camera and tiny whoop. This is because back when I had those 2 quads, the power and components were not up to acceptable standard and the power was unbalanced so one motor would normally be powered more than the other 3 which created a lot of issues for the pilot. That is why I did not recommend them before. But all I can now say is “WOW”. From the first battery of this quad, I have been impressed. Within a year and a quarter, I can see the huge improvement that has been made in the performance and quality of micro quads, especially since they are now brushless which allows them to have more power and a much longer flight life. Moving forward into the future, brushless is becoming very popular because it allows for a lot more power than the brushed micros, lasts much longer and is more durable and can save weight because of the new ‘Naked bottom’ motors.
While flying this micro, using the first 30 batteries, I was very impressed with the 3 - 3.5 minutes of continuous flying which is great flight time for a micro like this. But after the first around 50 packs through this micro, the battery life shortened to 2 minutes to max of 2.5 minutes before I started to feel the battery sag. This is not that much of an issue because it was only because of the batteries’ life time. You would have much more fun if you purchased at least 4 260mah 3.8V batteries and gain longer battery life because the flying time would be more spread out over multiple batteries versus the 1 260mah battery that is included with this micro quadcopter.
I was really happy when flying this quad with the AIO camera quality. The quality and zoom of the lens on this camera cannot be changed, but as a stock unit they perform amazingly well. Everything in the camera’s sight is visible and surprisingly clear for a nano camera. The quality of this camera in my opinion is comparable to the “Stock” Foxeer HS1177 fpv camera with all the colour and clarity in the view. The camera however is fixed view. This means that the camera is fixed at a 20° angle. However, it works very well with the power and the weight of the quad while keeping the speed fast.
The video I experienced with this quad has been more than enough for what it has been designed for. Flying this quad indoors, the video feed can travel through a couple of walls before severely breaking up. The antenna is well covered and at 25mw at 12 channels, I have not had many issues with the range unless flying between multiple walls.
In conclusion, the HB64 micro brushless quad is an excellent micro quad for anyone from a beginner just getting into FPV to a long-timer FPV pilot for those indoor sessions or just some fun for those rainy days. It has more than enough power for indoor races or to rip around the house/warehouse. Its size and power also allows it to hit those extra small gaps that are impossible for larger micros or 3” quads to hit. Its advantages overlap the advantages from any brushed “Tiny Whoop” and for the HB64’s price point, it is definitely worth checking out and potentially worth buying if it ticks your needs. This quad is also very very durable. I have crashed it from high, slammed into many obstacles and it has just held up without any bent props because of the included prop guards. Within my first 20 flights, I crashed into a deep puddle of water where this quad was fully submerged for several minutes but after putting it under the hair dryer and letting it dry off, I plugged it back in and it worked like it did before the soaking. My last point is to address the quality of the solder joints and construction of the quad. Every part of this quad appears to be well thought out and as a result is strong and durable against many obstacles. In my opinion, I would recommend this quad 100%.
The HB64 micro brushless quadcopter is available at HobbyCool.com:
This is part 2 of the review. In part 1 I discuss an overview and setup (including betaflight settings from factory) are covered in detail: Part 1 review
Firstly a very important correction. In the first review I showed a picture of the quadcopter minus battery sitting on a set of scales at 65g. I took this for granted and after measuring on my own scales got 84g. I don't usually trust weight in text but seeing it was sitting on digital scales I did not measure myself. Disappointing as this is misleading so I updated Gearbest immediately. To their credit they promptly took the image down and corrected the weight in the description - see below.
Preparing for flight
Just some minor housekeeping prior to the first flight. XM receiver was fixed in place on top of the VTX as it was dangling free when I received it. Antenna was fixed in place with a cable tie off the rear arm and heatshrink to secure. VTX antenna got the same treatment off the rear upper-deck of the frame. Lastly I replaced the rubbish battery strap with one from RJX hobbies (review here). Although a buckled strap was included as well as the one picture above, it was much too long? Weird.
Flight performance on 2s
Just because the Bolt X120 *can* fly on 2s doesn't mean you *should* fly on 2s. I used my Turnigy Nanotech 2s 950mah (47g) pack and needed about 40% throttle to hover. I could fly but performance was lacklustre and I got bored. I did get about 4 minutes flight time but won't say any more.
Flight performance on 3s
After my initial disappointment on the weight, performance on 3s 450mah turnigy nanotech was better than I had expected. It felt controlled with enough speed to be enjoyable. I had to switch to default betaflight 3.3 PIDs though since the customised PIDs look more like a 4s tune and felt sloppy as a result. I did manage to get good flight times on these little batteries of approximately 2.5 - 3.0 coming down at 3.75 volts and had fun doing so. Given then power of the quad I'd probably pefer a 650mah 3s for another minute or so of flight and would have less concern about sagging on big throttle punches. For the places I usually enjoy micros the most (tight with small trees) I found 3s the most fun.
Quick update: compared back to back on same batteries with my Leader 120 which is lighter (68g vs 84g) with 'smaller' motors (1104 7500kV vs. 1106 4500kV). I found it was similar speed with comparable handling and I actually got as good if not slightly better flight time on the Skystars Bolt - the extra stator size was negated by the lower kV from an efficiency standpoint. The leader however cannot do 4s...
When I went from 3s to 4s on the BabyHawk R 3" (review here) I got a reasonable increase in speed but not 33% as you'd probably expect. Given the same motor size (1106 4500kV) I was expecting something similar here but got a complete shock here - This thing ABSOLUTELY SCREAMS on 4s. I've always liked the Gemfan 2540 props (review here) but have never tried them on 4s and boy, they sure hold up and deliver on the extra power, it was like a different quad altogether. The speed was like nothing I'd felt on a micro and I had real trouble managing in a tight area. This probably wasn't helped by the fact I was using a CNHL Ministar 4s 650mah battery which weighs 87g so I was really blowing out on corners, even with a lot of extra throttle. It reminded my of running a heavy 4s 3 inch with 1408 motors - super fast but handled like a brick. I'd dare say 450mah 4s at around 62g would be a better option for weight control. at the cost of some flight time. As it stood I was getting 4 - 4.5 minutes on the 650mah battery. I've since moved to betaflight 3.4.0 and have got the tune tighter without oscillations but it is still a handful. For my piloting ability running this quad on 4s requires a bigger area akin to my 4 and 5 inch quads but that kind of deafeats the purpose of this micro. For my money and ability I actually prefer this on 3s - It is much quieter and handles better with the lower weight which is better suited to small parks. The noise alone on 4s makes people more wary of this one.
Rather than trying to recommend how many cells you should run I've merely stated my opinions on what I want from a micro. The most important thing here is that this Skystars Bolt X120 is well and truly capable of comfortably running 3s or 4s depending on where you are flying or how you are feeling on a particular day. The new throttle limiting feature on betaflight is a great way of limiting power to fly on 4s if for example you want to stick with just this battery size with power more akin to 3s. I've written a full tutorial on this here including how to assign to an AUX switch.
Although I alluded to the similarities to the original Leader 120 (review here) it is clearly a different quadcopter with a different feel and different capabilities - it has a much better camera and VTX but is much heavier and designed to run on more cells which make it heavier again for a different flight feel. A better comparison is perhaps the BabyHawk R 3 inch which I find handles better but lacks the speed of this model, particularly on 4s. Images below on a scale for all of these for comparison.
The Skystars bolt can be bought exclusively from Gearbest in several different formats - an unbuilt kit with no receiver (PNF), a built quad with no receiver, or as a built quad with FRSKY or Flysky receivers.
Check on my discounts page regularly for specials but at the time of writing the unbuilt kit is available for $117 and the FRSKY BNF as seen here is available for $134
So the Emax Hawk 5 has been out for a couple of months now and it has really captured the imagination of community. This is because it was an EMax-USA driven initiative that started as a way to sell more parts (Magnum stack, LS motors, Avan props) but ended up so much more. Where the Hawk 5 separates itself from all other bind and flys that have come before (except perhaps the holybro kopis) is that is more than the sum of it's parts - the development that has gone into matching the components, developing a strong, stiff yet lightweight frame and then tuning the whole package means it is a bind and fly that is genuinely competitive for racing out of the box. Listening to HyphPV and Sean Taylor in various channels they both believe this is a bonafide racer which is high praise coming from them.
I'll try keep this review brief because there has already been a lot said about this quad but I'll try to address the aspects that struck me as peculiar or aspects I don't thik have been well covered.
I think the component choice looks solid but unspectacular however the way that this comes together in for flight is super impressive.
Rather than going through the setup step by step in boring text, I've screen-grabbed all the relevant tabs from betaflight below. In short this quad includes custom filters setup, PIDs and rates so that you have an excellent tune right out of the box. This perfectly matches the specfic frame geometry, weight, motors and props that are used. Confident tuners will no doubt be able to adjust to their specific feel but I can say that I've come across no better custom tune in any quad yet, it is comparable to the babyhawk R (my review here) which makes sense - it was tuned by the same team.
Early flight performance
Wow. I had preconceptions that the 2206 low kV motors would be underpowered but was completely wrong. This is a fast, highly manouverable quad that is well tuned. To date it is the quickest quad I've flown and objectively has been found to hit over 100mph consistently. More than that though it corners well thanks to the 'grippy' props and light weight. I won't carry on here about flight but it felt well and truly locked in, the best quad I have flown.
In terms of FPV the signal was excellent on 25mW which is what I'm limited to on racing. There was absolutlely no sign of electrical interference or noise on my go-to channel (F2 - 5760MHz) at any throttle level. Just as importantly the image from the foxeer arrow micro pro is surprisingly good. This camera is a surprisingly good improvement over the micro arrow 1 or 2 and the micro swift 1 or 2 - I believe the presets were greatly approved on. I've actually ordered 3 more of these cameras to replace my others with because so far have not been a fan of the newer CMOS cameras.
One thing that felt unfamiliar to me were the way the props delivered power and the noise or the lack thereof. Additionally they pull a lot of current -I peaked at 110A on a 1500mah 4s pack. My guess is that in order to take advantage of the relatively low kV motor they went with a VERY agressive propeller with a distinct geometry. After swapping over to a HQ 5x4.8x3 which is stilla fairly agressive prop the Hawk 5 felt much more familiar and predicable to me with a power delivery and audible feedback I'm much more familiar with. I didn't feel I lost anything in speed or grip but peak current draw dropped off to 97A, i.e. 10% improved efficiency at high throttle. I need to note that props are a personal thing and this is my preference. You may find you like the stock Avan Flow props much more, I'm more of a HQ/Dal guy.
Lastly I'll say the efficiency on this is very impressive, again probably down to their choice of motor.. Everyone flies differently so will get different flight times depending on what they are doing but this I founf that even with my most tired 4s 1000mah pack I was able to get 3 minutes of flight which outperformed my lighter Floss 2 build which hand 'only' 2205 motors. On a good 1300mah I got 4 minute sof hard flying and from 1500mah about 4.5 - 5 minutes.
If you are looking for a 5" bind and fly quad quite simply this is the one to get. $250 sounds like a lot compared to other cheaper ones but as I've said before this is so much greater than the sum of it's parts. The clever choice of components, lightweight frame and wonderful tune make this a great quad and it shows - at the time of writing it is always in and out of stock depending on where you shop. Since so many have sold there is also a very big community - more people to solve problems and enhance. For example customs canopies, go pro mounts and recommendations for budget meaningful modifications and customisation is much more readliy available than for less common quads that tend to come and go. I'll bet this quad will be around and supported well for a long time.
Support is great - as you can see above all parts are available from many retailers so replacements are not just available but commonly available.
I can't speak to reliability yet since I haven't flown enough but since they haven't gone with the very latest and leading edge technology and hardware, that means there have been time to iron out the bugs. I'm expecting few problems but will certainly report back if there are.
Lastly I'll make a note again on the efficiency. In the race for power with bigger motors and steeper props this often gets forgotten but EMax seems to be going down the path of optimised efficiency and it shows here. The rhetoric from them is the the LS and newer RSII series are motor were not developed for all out power but more for efficiency which is what racers have really been demanding - making sure that on fast tracks that they still have battery left at the end. This is a benefit to the racer of course but for the casual pilot more efficiency = longer flight time = more stick time for learning and more of the the fun part of FPV... actual flying!
In summary this is a great model and comes highly recommended from me. Of course I'll be looking to improve where I can do so effectively and cheaply and will write about this where it's meaningful. Gearbest kindly supplied me this model and I'd encourage you to purchase from them as per the link below. Using this affiliate link comes at no cost to you but will help me to continue making and publishing reviews like this and recommendations for improvement.
Updates! I've new written a blog on bang for buck upgrades and also a comprehensive walkthrough on a VTX upgrade to allow DVR, smart audio, great power options.
Please note this review will be in 2 parts. In this part (1) I will cover an intro, overview and setup of the quad and I will completed part 2 once I have a decent amount of packs through it. Part 2 is now here
In the last 10 or so months that the Fullspeed Leader 120 (review here) came out, a whole new category of 2.5" quadcopters have been released. These have mostly knocked out the 2" brushless market owing to better power and efficiency that the 11xx series motors are able to deliver with 2.5 inch props - most notably the Gemfan 2540 (review here). In all this time, none have really hit upon what made the leader unique: it's supremely light weight. The Aurora Mini Fight, the HGLRC Hornet and to a lesser extent the 3" babyhawk R (review here) have all showed what more powerful 1106 motors can do but have all had 15-25g or more weight on the Leader.
Enter the Skystars X120 Bolt. This is an 1106 powered 2.5" quadcopter and weighs 65g - only 2g more than the Leader 120 whilst retaining a durable 3mm thick bottom plate. Better yet it receives all of the modern improvements that have become more common on brushless micro quads since the Leader's release:
Overview of the build
Soldering around the stack looks adequate and it is nice to see they took the time to keep motor wiring tidy and tucked away. Motors themselves are 1106 4500kV and are a naked bottom design which helps with cooling and weight. They are similarly notchy to the Emax RS1106 motors on the Babyhawk R. Motors have only 2 mounting holes on the frame arm by design. On mine 3 had all 3 screws but one had only 2. No big deal for me but a little sloppy on QC.
Below is the stock betaflight setup. At the time of writing (June 2018) Betaflight 3.4.0 has just been released as RC1. The Skystars Bolt X120 came defaut with 3.2.4 which is a release that has dynamic filtering so I am happy to leave this be. The default target was omnibus F4 SD which is odd since this card certainly has no SD card for blackbox storage. When I update I will be changing the target to omnibus F4 no SD.
I am pleased to say that setup has been customised. In particular I like that the dynamic fliter has been turned on but especially that custom pids are present on profile 2. All values are significantly lower than default and my guess is that they are set up for 4s. Interestingly the rates look quite unique - max yaw rate is increased over stock @ 769, pitch is higher at 870 and roll is very high at 1176.
For the purpose of reference I have a screen shot of all customised screens below and my take on the unique settings.
So that will wrap up part 1 of the review. Keep an eye out here for part 2 where I will maiden and try with 2s, 3s and 4s of varying sizes with my take on performance and DVR footage. Thanks for reading.
The Skystars Bolt X120 can be bought from Gearbest who kindly provided this model for review. It can be bought from Gearbest in multiple formats to suit your transmitter including:
I've had the AKK FX2 in my main race quad now for 3 months because of less than ideal experiences with longevity from other VTXs in the past. I can say that after numerous race meets, fun fly sessions and solo practice it has held up perfectly with no issue performing exactly how I want - no fuss. Furthermore when flying in a group I've had no problems of channel bleeding or power-up blasting which are the features that TBS and Immersion RC promote as key features in their premium VTXs that cost nearly twice as much.
More importantly than this though, the FX2 gives an excellent signal. I don't find myself wanting more than 25mW except when flying around dense trees when I use 200mW for extra penetration. I have had no need to run 500mW or 800mW other than just to test that they work. For disclosue I use an emax RHCP pagoda antenna and a RealAcc 8dbi patch (review here) on my Aomway Commanders (review here) and a UXII MMCX stubby on my quad.
None of the above are 'killer features' but again, just do the basics that you'd hope for in a good vtx. What is unique about this model though is that it sits tidily and firmly in the flight stack of my Floss 2. Alongside the Sunrise Cicada all in one ESC/FC (review here) I use it makes for a super solid stack that has not cable ties, double sided tape or hot glue. Additionally given the way the MMCX connector exits cleanly out the back I can either use the included pigtail but my new preference is to use the UXII stubby MMCX CP antenna. This is super light and super compact on my floss 2 - no protruding antennas or mounts to be broken. Lastly the base of the board is dead flat. I didn't see the advantage of this until I saw FC board like the Kakute with the elevated gyro - the FX2 definitely clears this with standard standoffs. Alternatively you can fit a skinny receiver like a FRSKY XMplus between the FC and vtx like I've done below:
In summary, all of these 'little things' done right make for a really good vtx ESPECIALLY since it can be had with free shipping under $20. These are sold exclusively from AKK with free (and fast) shipping or from Amazon.
If 30.5mm mounting is not your thing, the FX3 is based on a 20mm stack and the X2 is a board that will require the aforementioned cable ties or double sided tape while the nano3 will mount to the back of your runcam micro similar to how the FullspeedRC TX200 (review here) does it. The Nano only accepts 5v but does do smart audio.
The FX2 is also available in the 'ultimate' variant which will output up to 1200mW but it's hard to recommend this for quadcopters - even for long range the pros like FPVProvo recommend only 200mW and rather focussing on your aerials and receivers.
The options from the article above:
If you are reading this between the 6th and 12th of June, AKK currently have a sale on as below, click on the picture or any link above and it will take you to their sale pricing: