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Micro Camera for the Furibee X215 pro

14/5/2018

9 Comments

 
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Furibee X215: A robust well thought out PNP quad - except the rubbish camera
The Furibee X215 has been out last year and has been proven to be a really well thought out quad. It's not especially light but is VERY robust, has a relevent up to date spec list and handles suprisingly well. Stewart from UAV futures rated it very highly especially since it can usually be had exclusively from Gearbest for under $140 here:
​ 
https://www.gearbest.com/brushless-fpv-racer/pp_708202.html
Substandard Stock Camera
The only realy shortcoming for me other than props where are a disposable item anyway (I use Dal t5040c for anyone asking) is the FPV camera. When the weather is perfectly sunny outdoors it looks beautiful @ 1200TVL CMOS but it is horrible at handling light transitions - as soon as you go into shadow it can take over a second to transitions = crash. For me anyway. Also the stock lens has a very narrow FOV meaning peripheral vision is poor. You can replace the lens with a 2.1mm or 1.8mm to improve this but the light handling will be not better, it will be throwing away good money after bad. Because the camera is your eyes for FPV it needs to be good.
Picture
That's a heavy camera - micros are typically 5.5g or less
Why I used a Micro Camera
The obvious trick would be to replace the existing camera with a standard or 'mini' sized camera which would be a direct swap however I had a spare micro sized camera kicking around so wanted to use that. Also note that micros are much more common now than mini or standard to there is a wider range AND they are cheaper. I used the Foxeer Arrow Micro V2 (below) but would recommend the Micro Arrow Pro as the RRP is lower and has better default settings. Lastly a micro camera saves you almonst 10g over this full sized one.
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Foxeer Arrow Micro
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Runcam Micro Swift
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FuribeeMS 1672 - budget alternative

Parts Needed

It took me a while to figure out how to install cleanly but was able to do so cleanly in the end with a minimum of parts and tools:
  • 2 x 19mm standoffs (I just dremelled down some spare 27mm ones I had lying around). 20mm here: https://www.banggood.com/Suleve-M3AS11-10Pcs-M3-20mm-Aluminum-Alloy-Standoff-Spacer-Round-Column-MultiColor-Smooth-Surface-p-1290426.html
  • 2mm drill bit
  • Solder and iron to solder in new camera

How to install
Here are the steps youl need to take to replace the camera:
  1. Remove the old camera
  2. Remove the carbon fibre side plates from the aluminium frame sections
  3. Remove the front 2 stand offs
  4. Replace the connect by depinning/repinning the connectors or remove the old camera wiring and replace with the new camera wiring.
  5. Drill the carbon sideplates with a 2mm bit in the location shown below.
  6. Put the sideplates back in but this time on the inside of the aluminium frame
  7. Fit the smaller 19mm standoffs where the old standoffs used to be. The extra thickness of the carbon planes now on the inside of the frame is what allows for the shorter standoff.
  8. Fit the new micro camera with the M2 screws that came with the micro camera.
  9. Test, fly, enjoy
Picture
All going well it will look like this. Notice the carbon fibre plates on the inside of the aluminium
Picture
Note the location of the new M2 holes drilled in the carbon side plates
Picture
You can see my ghetto-trimmed 19mm stand offs here and just how far recessed the camera is
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Another shot of how far the camera is recessed - no frame in view at all with a 2.1mm lens
Picture
Changed the FPV antenna conntector from RP-SMA to SMA while I was at it.
Picture
Where the coax FPV cable meets the VTX is where you need to replace. Fiddly but actual pretty easy.
Results
Needless to say a night and day difference, so muck more confident now I have this better camera. I'm not at a level that I can tell but the new micro cameras have a lot less latency than the last generation CMOS as comes stock with the X215. Before I fired up the camera I though for sure I'd have the frame in view but to my pleasant suprised it was a completed unobstructed view with a very well recessed lense. Given the strength of this frame I don't think I'll ever have to worry about damage to the camera.

Conclusion
I've always liked the way this quad flies but now that it has a camera that is good rather substandard I find myselt wanting to fly it much more. It's amazing how much the FPV system affects your enjoyment of flying when I know personally that I get carried away with motor specs and props or 4s vs 6s etc... A properly functioning camera and video transmission system a real world difference that you can immediately tell.

Links
Furibee X215: https://www.gearbest.com/brushless-fpv-racer/pp_708202.html
Foxeer Arrow Micro: https://www.gearbest.com/camera/pp_650430.html
20mm Standoffs: ​https://www.banggood.com/Suleve-M3AS11-10Pcs-M3-20mm-Aluminum-Alloy-Standoff-Spacer-Round-Column-MultiColor-Smooth-Surface-p-1290426.html
Picture
Picture
9 Comments
Henry
19/5/2018 11:32:36 am

I love this. And I fully plan to get around to doing this to my Furibee x215. I have a query though. The 20mm standoffs you link to... will they need to be cut back to 19mm? I found these https://www.banggood.com/Diatone-2018-GT-R90-FPV-Racing-Drone-Spare-Part-M219mm-Two-way-Knurled-Aluminum-Standoff-p-1225439.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN - would they be a better choice? Would massively value your input. Oh and also I found this https://www.banggood.com/Foxeer-Arrow-Micro-Pro-13-CCD-600TVL-PALNTSC-FPV-Camera-with-OSD-BlackBlueRed-p-1248761.html?rmmds=search&stayold=1&cur_warehouse=CN and am wondering if it will be a suitable one to use. It's practically the same from what I can see but would value expert knowledge before sitting to wait for slow ship from China and finding parts aren't what I expected! Many many thanks for great writeup!

Reply
QuadifyRC
21/5/2018 11:17:12 am

Hey Henry!

Thanks for the kind comment. I think you will get away with a 20mm standoff no problem but the are very easy to file or even sand down as the aluminium on these is pretty soft. The ones you linked are for M2, you need M3 and these ones are on special:
https://www.banggood.com/M3AR7-10Pcs-M3-20mm-Knurled-Standoff-Aluminum-Alloy-Anodized-Spacer-p-1118406.html?p=O407199341113201703R&jumpAuth=afe86ee4

This is the best CCD and is on special at present:
https://www.banggood.com/Foxeer-Arrow-Micro-Pro-13-CCD-600TVL-PALNTSC-FPV-Camera-with-OSD-BlackBlueRed-p-1248761.html?p=O407199341113201703R

On a side note I just flew mine this weekend and was my last quad standing, the new camera protection especially is great!

Reply
Henry
22/5/2018 08:48:17 am

Thanks so much for replying. I have a few final queries if you don't mind answering that I would be ever so grateful to hear back from you on. I am slightly nervous to drill the frame and make sure I align things properly. Firstly, is it easy to drill or tricky in any way (anything to watch out for?). I am no expert with a drill but I can do basic stuff. A little concerned I botch it and end up with not fit for purpose holes! Secondly, aligning the holes properly. Can you give me any tips? I've been wanting to rip this camera off for a while now. And I am all for camera protection (chinese don't seem to care about this!). BTW if there was anything else you would change on this quad.. what would it be? I'm wondering how far I can soup up the basic specs. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!!

QuadifyRC
23/5/2018 02:00:35 pm

Hey Henry. I can appreciate why you might be nervous. If you have a scrap lying around practice on that first to get a feel for it but drilling carbon fibre is easy, especially for a M@ hole. Make sure you don't get close to the dust and wash with water after as it is potentially toxic.

As for location drill the first plate in place using my picture as a guide. Then take both plates off and line them up to use the first place you drilled as a jig, guiding you to drill the next hole perfectly square.

For mods I'd change the props as per the article and the just buy more batteries and just fly it. It's well balanced as is other than the FPV system. One thing I've done recently though is raise the vtx with spaces so it doesn't touch the flight controller gyro as mine was touching.

Reply
croydon link
7/10/2018 09:45:37 pm

Hello i was wondering if you would know where i can buy a spare cable for the stock camera as it broke and i have no clue about where to find one. thanks

Reply
QuadifyRC
8/10/2018 09:10:21 am

Hi Croydon. I don't believe you can buy a ready made replacement without getting a whole new camera. As I mentioned in this article the camera is the weak link in this quad, a new one make a huge difference in the enjoyment of FPV. OF the credible retailers, Hobbycool has the best price micro arrow pro camera going at the moment: $18 http://hobbycool.com/arrow-micro-pro-600tvl-fpv-camera-with-osd/?afmc=1x

Reply
croydon
8/10/2018 03:33:43 pm

Then would you know where to buy the stock camera? as i don't have a soldering iron to put a different one on it

QuadifyRC
9/10/2018 11:38:50 am

Sorry I had a look but can't be sure of a direct replacement. You should be able to get around soldering by snipping wires, twisting and heatshrinking.

Reply
mobil ödeme bozdurma link
30/8/2022 01:24:20 pm

https://guvenbozum.com/

Reply



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