The QuadifyRC Drop in brushless upgrade guide for 144001, 124018 AND 124019

DROP IN Brushless Upgrade Guide for WL TOys 144001, 124018 and 124019 [QuadifyRC]

21/1/2021

WL toys have had a series of hits with the 1/14 scale 144001 and now more recently with the 1/12 scale 124019 and 124018 - same car just a little longer. In order to hit their price point though they have had to compromise on the power train - opting for brushed motor technology that although surprisingly fast offers poor long term durability and even worse efficiency leading short running times. Upgrading to brushless is a solid option but has required hacks and workarounds in the past to get anything other than basic speed run builds. This new guide aims to be drop in solution with no mechanical modification required.

Just to recap I've already made 3 brushless builds. If you have the ability I still highly rate the ultimate brushless upgrade as I believe the motor and gear combination is perfect for fast, reliable and efficient 2s running.

144001 ultimate brushless upgrade guide (2838 4500kv and 17t pinion) - also for 124019 and 124018
144001 no cut option (as above with 15t requires rebore of the pinion) - also for 124019 and 124018
144001 speed run build (3650 5200kv on road only) - also for 124019 and 124018

144001 ultimate brushless upgrade

144001 no cut option

144001 speed run

Build objective

The core objective for this build is to make the process as simple as possible - servos, receivers, motors, gears all bolt up directly without having to re-drill, slot or fabricate anything. For full disclosure the ONLY cutting that is required is removing a little of the thin plastic on the motor shroud - purely cosmetic and can be done easily with a craft knife or nail scissors. The end result of a car that is very quick (48mph/78kph on 2s and 68mph/109kph on 3s) and has superior handling due to reduced weight that is suitable for on road and offroad with markedly improved battery life

Competed build - I've installed in the 124018 but it would work as well as or even better in the 124019 or 144001

Parts I used plus alternatives

All parts are listed below. I've listed alternative items with same or similar specs should there be stock issues.

Radio
Radio will need to be replaced, you cannot use the stock item for a brushless upgrade. DumboRC make an excellent budget model or you can upgrade to the FlyskyFS-GT5

The Dumbo X6 (with gyro) is typically the best value option: review is here

The X6a is identical to the X6 but cosmetically a little different: review is here.

The flysky FS-GT5 is a little more expensive but offers a lot more features, especially if you want to use it to control multiple cars. Review is here.

Servo
The stock servo will need to be replaced with a 3 wire servo. I recommend the reliable PDI-1181MG but it is often out of stock. The Emax ES3054 is a good replacement as is the newly released surpass hobby 17g metal servo

JX Digital Servo 17g Metal Gear PDI-1181MG This is a direct replacement for the stock servo that is faster with metal gears but often out of stock

Surpass-Hobby 17g Metal Gear Servo. A new one from Surpass is working well in a new build I have. Good alternative to the 1181MG if unavailable

Emax ES3054 17g 3.5kg 0.13sec Metal Gear Digital Servo. Another good alternative to the 1181MG if unavailable

Motor
On to the fun stuff! The motor is the most unique part for this build. For size I've chosen the 2445 as the longest barrel 24xx motor available. It has the correct mounting points for the stock bracket and importantly has m2.5 mounting screws (no drilling of the motor mount) and a 2.3mm motor shaft meaning no re-boring of the 15t pinion gear. Ideally I would have liked 4500kv but have gone with 5400kv and will use exclusively on 2s. Consider 3500kV as a milder option that is capable of running 3s quite happily

Racerstar 2445 Motor Senseless Brushless Waterproof 5400/3600/3000KV. As Above I recommend 5400kv but 3600kv is a good option if you want it to run a little slower and cooler.

Surpass Hobby 2445 KK Series 2S Brushless Waterproof Motor 3000/3600/5400KV. Make no mistake, this is the same motor but under it's original name - Racerstar is a house brand for Banggood.

Brushless ESC
I don't think anyone will question my use of a premium hobbywing ESC (such is their quality and performance) but I know I will ruffle a few feathers by recommending the 30A 16BL30 model. My reasoning is simple. This is the unit that is OEM'd for the LC racing EMB series which run 2838, 2938 and 2850 motors ranging from 4500-5000kv on 2s AND 3s. These are well made cars and have shipped with these ESCs for years with little to no complaint on the ESCS even on 3s. I've also listed a budget surpass equivalent but strongly recommend the 16BL30. If you remain unconvinced, consider the 120A Hobbywing 10BL120 as an overkill ESC that has a massive amount of overhead yet remains highly compact for a simple build.

Hobbywing QuicRun WP-16BL30 Brushless Waterproof 30A Sensorless ESC. This is a high-quality programmable compact ESC that is well suited to motors in this size range. Rated for 2s and 3s.

Hobbywing QUICRUN 10BL120 Sensored 120A 2-3S Lipo Speed Brushless ESC. Much higher rated ESC if you want the additional power overhead. Not waterproof but capable of running sensored motors too.

Other parts
These are the must-have other parts needed for the upgrade. Not sexy but crucial - especially the unicorn pinion that I found after a months of searching and testing.

0.7m 15t pinion with 2.3mm bore. The only pinion available in this size. The magical piece that allows for this upgrade. Link for another seller here

Motor mount for 124019 124018 144001. I recommend this as a critical part because it is difficult to remove the stock item in 1 piece

M2.5 Countersunk Screw (50 pcs). Buy in 8mm length. More than enough to use for the motor mount and replacing damaged items. Require a 1.5mm hex driver.

Amass T Plug Connector Male Female With Sheath. These will need to be soldered on in place of the mini Tamiya plug. If you want to save a little money and have heatshrink there is this option too.

Install Guide

Now that you have all the parts it's time to put it all together. I've installed in a 124018 here but images are the same for 124019 and 144001 as well.

First remove these screws to remove the upper deck. You'll note these first 6 images are from the 144001 but the process is the same

Remove the whole assembly above by unplugging the motor bullet connectors. You can also remove the gear shroud

This is how it should look now, you can remove the servo at this stage.

These are the two screws you'll need to remove for the motor mount which use a very strong loctite. I was able to remove without heat on 2 cars but needed to drill out on 1 car. Never fear, the screws I recommended (m2.5x8) work here as well

Screws are out

Now if you rotate the motor and mount about the bearing on the bracket you can remove. I strongly recommend against reusing this bracket because even if you do get the motor screws out, the pinion will strip 99% of the time. Just leave this unit as is

Here I've used m2.5 x 6.5mm screws to mount the motor but the m2.5 x 8mm i've recommended are a better length. New motor mount of course - always have one of these spare for a build like this.

You can see the at M2.5 countersunk screws fit in the close mounting position PERFECTLY - unlike when you use M3 countersunk redrilled as per my other guides

Hex driver here is pointing to where a small amount of material needs to be removed from the gear shroud to allow the motor to fit in this closer position

I used a (blunt) craft knife to remove this material but it is so thin an flexible that a pair of nail scissors will probably give you a better finish

Not a beautiful job but the motor will be covering this all anyway.

Now loosely slide the pinion on the motor shaft and reinstall the same way you removed from the car. New m2.5 x 8mm screws going back in that you bought. You did get them right?

With the motor mount fixed in place, tighten the pinion with a good 1.5mm hex driver so that it sit square with the spur gear

End result looks like this. The one positive with a fixed motor mount is that when you use the right motor in the right location with the right gear then the mesh is just PERFECT

Next I marked out where the material needed to be removed on the upper gear shroud...

... And removed

Keep test fitting to make sure you don't remove too much. You can see when enough have been taken away it sits square with no fouling.

Top plate goes back on. Try not to lose any screws like I did 🤦‍♂️

Here is the first test location I had for my gear. Before you fix anything down make sure you test with the body on in battery in place etc to make sure everything fits cleanly.

Since this particular install is on a 124018 I found the canopy fouled on the top of the servo plugs coming out of the receiver as seen above. This wouldn't be a problem in the 144001 or 124019

Ultimately I landed on the receiver between motor and ESC. It will get warm but receivers don't really mind the heat. This is only possible on the longer wheelbase 124019 and 124018

I like to secure excess motor wire with a cable tie but with no obvious points to run it through I drilled a 3mm hole in the top deck as above

And got just the security I needed

Here it is all reassembled - not a lot of room in the 124018

Performance results

For those that follow me on facebook (here if you want: Quadifyrc on facebook) you'll know that I've been testing this for about 2-3 months at time of writing in order to give you the best possible view rather than slapping it together and hoping for the best.

Weight and weight distribution
Moving to this setup will save you weight (130g to be specific) in all the right places, namely the rear of the car. This will be a minor improvement to the balance of the 124019 and 124018 given the longer chassis length and a major improvement for the 144001. This will make the car more balanced through corners and a lot more even over jumps. It will also make the suspension much easier to dial in,making the rear springs a little more suitable given they are not carrying excess weight.

Power and speed
You probably didn't come here to read about improved weight balance though so on to the speed. With the 2445 5400kV motor I got 78km/hr (48 mph) using the stock 2s battery on stock tyres running on the road. It's not speedrun-fast, but it is more than fast enough to know that you need to take care when cornering. Running it offroad, (even on the P6973 tyres I heartily recommend in this article) it is *barely* controllable and faster than the 2838 brushless upgrade I talked about in this article. Another benefit over the original 2838 brushless upgrade article is that the ESC is much smoother, cogging at even the lowest speeds is all but gone. Combined with a perfect gear mesh this is just such a smooth car now.

Update: On 3s I got a whopping 109km/h (68mph) - more than I was expecting! The cooling mod I mentioned below has really helped and was happy with motor and ESC temperature. Perhaps even more amazing was the battery pack voltage after a down of these passes. I was expecting it to be near depleted but look what I got below... Just to be clear, I got this speed using a 30A ESC and 30A Xt30 connectors. I may have found a new niche class - efficient speed runs 🤣

I used a China Hobbly Line 2s 2200mah 40c pack for this run. Does the job well.

3.93 volts per cell after 12 passes? Madness! Could have gone for more but I reckon I'd be tempting fate with a crash

109km/h is more than I was hoping. Remember this is not set up as a speed run car - I am using the tiny 15t pinion. I think this could go even faster with a 17t pinion if you really wanted but not really my thing.

The issues I've found + solutions

Just to show you I'm not trying to shove this upgrade down your throat it isn't all rosy though. This combo does seem to run hotter on 2s compared to the 2838 upgrade and that makes sense - a side effect of the faster, higher kV (5400 vs the 4500kV 2838) means that it does produce more heat. In fact during my torture testing with the bigger P6973 tyres on thick grass with the 124018 chassis, I managed to get the thermal cut off on the Hobbywing 16BL30 ESC to kick in - lucky it has one and certainly a reason why I like this ESC. I haven't had this kick in since though just something to bear in mind. In order to balance this argument though the 124018 is the worst car for cooling - all gear is housed tightly under the canopy with very little airflow - I suspect this would be much better on the 144001 and 124018. Also it is the middle of summer here and was around 25°C during my testing.

Efficiency and battery life
Based on the above it is understandable that power consumption was up on the 2838 4500kv, with the stock 2200mah battery lasting around 15 minutes on the 2445 5400kv. Although an improvement over the stock motor's 10 minutes, the 2838 would probably run about 20 minutes on the same pack. After a full run I found the battery is only just warm, a good sign that the power drain is not so high as to stress that battery.

Venting
I've written a brief article here (article to come soon - pics below for now) to greatly increase cooling without use of fans or additional heatsinks. This solution is only suitable for driving in conditions that are not muddy nor dusty. Here is the link to this breakout article which is applicable to the 124018, 124019 and 144001. I've found this change has been really effective, even with ambient temps of 22-25°C

More air in at the front

More air out at the back

Forced airflow at speed over the ESC and motor helps keep it cool

Reducing timing via ESC settings
Another option to use instead or as well as the extra venting is changing some of the ESC settings (namely timing). Since the 16BL30 used here and the 10BL120 is fully programmable directly from the ESC as supplied you can easily turn back timing from the stock value of 11.25°. I haven't done this because I don't feel it necessary but if you do experiment with the lower values to see what works best for you. Remember, more timing = more power and more heat and vice versa

The stock setting for the 16BL30 ESC is 11.25 degrees, reducing this value will cause the motor to run a little slower and cooler just like reducing timing on a 1:1 car. I didn't find this necessary. Full manual to the right if needed

quicrunwp10bl30-10bl60-8bl150.pdf
File Size:	7513 kb
File Type:	pdf

Download File

Update! Reducing the timing can definitely help get the heat under control if needed, see my new article on timing specifically for this setup here:
https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/brushless-motor-theory-adjust-esc-timing-to-control-power-and-heat

Reducing motor kV
Sadly the next step down in 2445 sized motors is only 3600kV and think this is a little low for 2s operation but would be good for 3s. I have ordered one to try for completeness and will report back on comparison to my expectations here with recorded speed. You will note that the 2440 motor is available in 4600kv but my genuine opinion is that this stator is just too small - more than 10% less volume than the 2445. UPDATE: I've tried the 3600kv and actually really like it on 2s and 3s. This motor is now my preference for bashing and keeping temps under control. See this article for more detail RC CAR THEORY: 2S VS. 3S, HIGH KV VS. LOW KV

Update! I've done extensive testing on the 5400kv AND 3600kv motors now for speed, heat and battery life on 2s and 3s. All the results, a whole lot of theory and my conclusions/ recommendations are here:
https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/drop-in-brushless-upgrade-guide-for-wl-toys-144001-124018-and-124019-quadifyrc

A riddle solved
When I set out on my 144001 journey, the motor mount with alternative mounting points always perplexed me. Why would they go to the effort of putting specific mounting holes in the mount if they weren't going to use them? - they obviously had something in mind. Weird thing was though that nothing was ever released to take advantage of them. Now that I've used the 2445 motor with 15t though pinion I do think this was the original objective - it just fits so easily and perfectly that I think this was the upgrade path that was planned all along.

Recommendations
If you want a simple a straightforward brushless upgrade suitable for on and offroad for the 124019, 124018 or 144001 with no extra drilling or cutting then I strongly suggest that this is the mod for you. Yes, a 3650 brushless motor with stock pinion will also drop straight in but I stand by my opinion that I believe these are only suitable for straight line on road cars; the weight makes them corner and jump poorly plus the heat buildup is significant, even on lower kV motors. Cogging is also an issue with the tall stock gears on 3650 motors.

I have tried to make this guide as complete as possible with all of the parts and options clearly laid out so that you can swap if there are stock or pricing issues or even upgrade spec if you wish. You can of course use other parts but I've specifically mentioned products here that I have direct experience with that have held up to my testing. Banggood do have all of these available except for the 15t pinion gear which I'm working on (Hao, if you are reading this 😉).

There are of course compromises that have been made to bring you a drop in solution such as a slightly higher kv motor than desired but you will still have a fast and reliable car as a result that is easy to build. If you are more of a tinkerer though I still rate my ultimate brushless build for the 144001, 124019 and 124018 as not the fastest but the most well balanced build.

Exact parts I used in this upgrade:

Racerstar 2445 5400kv Brushless Motor

Hobbywing 16BL30 Brushless 30A 2-3s ESC

Dumbo X6a radio gear with gyro

PDI 1181-MG 17g Metal Gear Servo

0.7mod 15t pinion gear
(Alternative link here)

144001/124018/124019 motor mount

Amass T-plug deans connector

M2.5 x 8mm countersunk screws

Hopefully you have found this article useful, I'm focusing on making my guides and testing more technical and exhaustive so the choice is made easier for you. If you purchase via the links here or on any of my pages I receive a small commission at no cost to you which is enough to help my cover my hosting fees and other expenses related to quadifyrc.com - thanks!

98 Comments

Thomas Bosboom

15/2/2021 09:23:19 am

Another great guide; love to the way you explain your reasoning!

QuadifyRC

15/2/2021 10:25:37 am

Thanks Thomas

If you're on Facebook I have just started a new group where I'll release articles like this early - facebook.com/groups/quadifyrc (I think that's it!)

Ethan

16/2/2021 07:42:00 am

I found this 2445 in a 4700kV, but it costs more than $75 US shipped to the states. Can't really justify spending that much money on just the motor.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOfN643

16/2/2021 11:17:29 pm

Dammit they're out there but that price is a bit on the nose. It mentions mounting screw is a m2 but surely that's a typo and should be m2.5.

BenLandel

16/2/2021 11:29:18 pm

Where did you put the receiver and esc on the 144001? Did the 2445 motor left enough place to mount something next to the steering servo? On my car, with the 2838, the flysky receiver is a very tight fit in there and the 2445 should be longer...

17/2/2021 09:21:56 pm

I used the 124018 here so more room lengthwise. On a 144001 there is more room in the cab so I would mount the receiver on the top deck

18/2/2021 05:26:13 am

Now we just need Banggood to get that pinion...I try to stay away from Ali. Please keep us posted on availability.

19/2/2021 08:46:43 am

I'm working on the pinion now with the Banggood RC product manager to see if they can get it

PoisionYu

24/2/2021 03:49:54 am

Any luck with that?

Garybaldy

24/2/2021 03:52:24 am

Are there any combo deals on banggood that are also drop in?

RCFREAK

26/2/2021 01:14:59 am

Hi quadify,

I'm following this guide very closely and have all the parts on order except for the AMASS tplug connector. Your link for this item is not working and im unsure which product to use instead (complete newbie here).

Could you or anyone else please update the link and/or point me in the right direction for a suitable replacement?

Much thanks in advance, this is the last piece I need to complete my build. All help greatly appreciated.

26/2/2021 11:30:42 am

Hi there

Thanks for the heads up - page has been updated with new options. Make sure you show your build in my facebook group!

27/2/2021 02:44:11 pm

You are a legend, thank you so much, I really appreciate your help. I don't use Facebook, but I will surely let you know how the 2445 build goes.

I was going to leave my car stock to be honest, but i had been bashing about all fine no problems, then went and did a few road runs and the drive train locked up. Upon inspection the motor pinion had slipped out at an angle AND was missing three teeth. Hardly barely run it.

Seems like a good excuse to upgrade. Thank you once again for your guides.

Anthony

27/2/2021 02:02:07 am

I love your guides. This site my my bible for WLToys Mods, in my eyes. A small opinion: I think it would be great if at the end of your articles, if you put a list of links (even affiliate links) with everything you recommend in one place would help us with easy buying. Even if you had like a "best, great, good" lists with all the links, that way when we are done reading everything, we can just click and buy. I've seen this on youtube videos and I can only think folks other than me would appreciate that.

Just a suggestion. We all appreciate everything you do.

2/3/2021 10:46:31 am

Hey Anthony that is very kind of you to say and thanks, am starting to go back and add this to articles now

27/2/2021 02:28:20 pm

Hey Anthony that is very kind of you to say and thanks! Good suggestion!

Cyrille

2/3/2021 09:56:19 am

Hi
Thanks a lot for your guide.
Did you try the 2445 3600kv? I'm hesitating with 5400kv and would be interested by your feedback.
Thanks

2/3/2021 10:48:25 am

Hi Cyrille

No problem! I've ordered the 3600kv but it is out of stock - will update when I have one here. The 5400kv is much better with the cooling added as mentioned in this article. The 124018 has terrible airflow and would expect to be better in the 124019 or 144001 stock

Arie

9/3/2021 01:44:04 am

Hi QuadifyRC, would you recommend this same upgrade for running a 124018 on the beach preferably with paddle tires? Or would you suggest a differennt motor with perhaps more torque and/or less speed?

Any other suggestions for running a 124018 on the beach are appreciated

13/3/2021 08:59:48 am

This is a great point. I just bought a 124018 whilst waiting for my brushless upgrade to arrive for my 144001. I live by a few beaches and have been checking out paddle tires, but have yet to find any with a similar diameter to stock wheels. A change in motor is probably the solution. A lower KV thus bigger torque brushless upgrade perhaps?

I'll let you know if I find any decent tires!

13/3/2021 11:12:33 pm

Best tyres I've found in this size is the Remo P6973 which would be ok in hard packed sand but not as good as paddles in soft sand

15/3/2021 01:35:45 pm

Re: 5400kv vs 3600kv? Assuming Kv is somewhat accurate and drivetrain is efficient then 1/3 slower.

13/3/2021 11:11:18 pm

Hi Arie

Paddle tyres have a large diameter so I'd recommend going with the lower KV option to offset this (3600kv). CHeers.

15/3/2021 11:31:36 am

How notable a difference would the 3600kv be in comparison to the 5400kv, in terms of general use. Will the top speed be much lower?

Erwin van Beek

16/3/2021 10:24:13 pm

Really nice website with all the info you supply! Great job!

Just a quick question, i'm going to buy the 124019. Just doubting what esc combo to put in. Since i'm not a soldering hero I would like a combo which is allready put together with wires. What you say about this setup? Want to run it on 3s and hoping to get around 70 mph. Would that be a good setup? Or would you recommend a other combo?

https://www.banggood.com/nl/Surpass-Hobby-Waterproof-3650-4300KV-Brushless-RC-Car-Motor-With-60A-ESC-Set-For-1-or-10-RC-Car-p-1298142.html?cur_warehouse=CN

19/3/2021 01:33:39 pm

Thanks Erwin

I'd recommend this combo here, there a lot of options for ESC and motors out there - good, bad and awful. I spent a lot of time research and testing this and other combos and so stand by it. When you start changing parts in and out it becomes more difficult. That combo you linked is ok but I don't recommend it in this car as it will be heavy, inefficient and has poor control at low speeds.

19/3/2021 12:16:00 pm

Hi,
I'm an RC newbie. I'm still waiting for my 124019 to be delivered. I've read your articles and it's a wealth of information! Thank you so much!

Can you tell me if this motor/ESC combo will work for this car?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32406437536.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.55cfb2e0h2wOHY&algo_pvid=6e38d270-138b-4712-adc1-5793b9e98487&algo_expid=6e38d270-138b-4712-adc1-5793b9e98487-3&btsid=0b0a556616160951792722169eab90&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

30/3/2021 09:16:22 am

Sorry I check out a lot of parts and there are a lot of bad ones out there. I only recommend the ones I've tried like the specific items linked in my articles.

Henry

27/3/2021 06:34:13 am

Great Guide!! By doing a brushless upgrade and reducing the gearing to from 27t to 15t, would it be possible to put some larger tires on it in order to make it more of a basher?

30/3/2021 09:17:01 am

For sure but would recommend the low kv option. Bigger wheels and tyres will also stress your driveline more

Fellow

29/3/2021 08:18:26 am

Hello!

Why the Amass T-plug deans connector are needed? Or what for? Cannot see what you used them for in this guide.

29/3/2021 10:48:12 am

They are used on the ESC as it comes with Tamiya connectors.

John

4/4/2021 03:21:17 pm

Which build this or the 2838 4500kv would be faster?? Thanks Quad!

15/4/2021 12:00:59 pm

Definitely this in a straight line but the 2838 has more torque

Isaac

14/4/2021 02:19:48 pm

Hey Quadify, I just found this while browsing through Ebay for Wltoys 144001 parts (Amazon doesn't stock many): https://www.ebay.com/itm/LC-RACING-Motor-Gear-SetEMB-1-EMB-SC-EMB-WRC-EMB-MT-EMB-DT-EP-1-14-RC-Car-L6032/174357336936?hash=item289881d368:g:AwkAAOSwnu1egh2h

It's a set of 3 pinion gears, are these the same as the ones that come stock on the 144001?

15/4/2021 12:01:46 pm

Sorry mate, differnt pitch on the LC racing cars. From memory they are 0.5 or 0.6m compared to 0.7m on 144001

17/4/2021 07:22:48 am

So I just finally got my version of this build completed in a 144001 with Remo body mounts and short course truck shell, lc racing springs and various metal upgrades...

IT IS INCREDIBLE.

It's almost scary fast, I can pull wheelies from start or even if I slam the throttle whilst already half on it. I love it.

Is very smooth, but you can get it to cog slightly if you try. It does get fairly hot and I'm wondering about an added heat sink, but I haven't managed to hit the cutoff temp, so assume all is good.

I set the lipos to cut off at 3.4 on the ESC but they seem to stop at 3.7 for some reason. Are there any particular settings you recommend when programming the ESC quadify? So much to play with.

Overall, I'm absolutely blown away, this feels like a really serious RC car now. I've ordered 4 of the clear Remo short course shells to get creative with, that's me entertained for the foreseeable future lol.

Thanks quad.

17/4/2021 11:43:59 pm

Glad you like it :)

Sounds like the 3.4 cutoff setting is perfect for you as a finished resting voltage of 3.7v is perfect. the difference between the 2 is the voltage sag you get near the end of the pack. Finishing on 3.7v rested is in the safe zone for storage so your packs should last well. If you are on FB, please share your painting in my group!

18/4/2021 06:56:33 am

Thanks quad, I don't like it, I love it. Thanks for the guide, I honestly can't believe I own an RC that goes 50mph+ everyone that sees it is amazed.

Unfortunately I'm not on facebook, but I'm tempted to join because of your group. Once I paint up the clear body shells and add a few finishing touches, I'll get a picture to you somehow.

Thanks again.

Now I'm wondering, do I put the same set up in my 124018 also, or try something different...... 🤔😁

Chris

17/4/2021 06:12:15 pm

Another great guide. Thank you!! Cause there was no 15t pinion available, I used the 17t from the ultimate brushless guide. I also use xt60 connectors. It doesn't work really, too much heat I guess. Can you help me? Just the best Chris

17/4/2021 11:46:20 pm

Hi Chris. Sorry to hear you are having problems but as you have found, the 17t is just too big for this high kV motor. The vendor I use suggest there is heaps of stock of the 15t? https://bit.ly/30zzNhg

18/4/2021 05:27:11 am

Thx for your reply! But i bought the 3600kv. Doi You think it could be too close to the spur gear? Or has the motor too little power?
Thank you for your expertice.

4/5/2021 12:20:16 am

Hi Chris

If you don't mind modding the motor mount then the 17t pinion is a great option for the 3600kv 2445 motor.

Domingo

20/4/2021 03:24:02 am

Hello.
I love your page, you are an encyclopedia of wltoys, thank you.

I have a 124018 with a stock engine.
I use it 90% on a dirt track for rc with some friends, who we all carry wltoys.
For this type of terrain, which engine would you recommend?
I want to continue using the 2s batteries, maximize the duration of the battery as much as possible while maintaining more or less the same final speed, the speed can drop a bit I don't care.
I also think important point, I live in a very hot place and this chassis is a chimena hahaha.

Thank you very much in advance.
All the best.

4/5/2021 12:19:01 am

Thanks Domingo and sorry for the late reply. I 100% recommend the 3600kv motor option for you, it will do precisely what you are asking. Stick with the 30a Hobbywing esc here too.

5/5/2021 01:43:01 am

I will do that, as soon as the original engine stops working or something breaks and I have to order parts.
Thank you very much =)

Louis P Ortiz

21/4/2021 11:41:19 pm

So I have a 2430 7200kv 25a esc BL motors with a 2.0mm bore shaft RPM: 7200KV
Max Current: 24A
Max Watts: 200W
Can Size: 2430
Sensored: No
Motor Size: Approx. 41 x 24mm/ 1.6 x 0.9inch(Height x diameter)
ESC Size:Approx. 37 x 26 x 14mm/1.5 x 1 x 0.6 inch...
If this esc won't work I'll probably or even if it works get the 30a hobbywing esc. And I couldn't find a 15t pinion but I did find a 17t Tooth pitch:0.7 Modulus 2.0mm bore and I have the motor mount with the extra holes. So im wondering what should I do I'm going put in my 124018 already have an extra flysky reciver for my next project so. In your opinion what should I do.. I was gonna run a 540 or 550 brushless in there but I just have the 18th scale brushless set up just chilling bought it for a different project but couldn't get it to work so I was thinking either put it one of my wpl rigs or set it up in the 124018.. and when I came across this site a few days ago.. I was thinking it might work.. cause I hit a piece of concrete sticking up in some tall grass AND I bent the Drive shaft lol that was it so I recently changed it and it has a metal spur gear same stock 67t spur gear

4/5/2021 12:23:15 am

Hi Louis. Unfortunately that motor is just too small with too much kV for this car. The smallest motor I recommend is the 2440 4500kv and that is borderline. My favourite setup for ease and performnce is the one mentioned in this article.

21/4/2021 11:42:15 pm

Jeff

27/4/2021 10:41:26 pm

Will a 60a esc help with heat and thermal cutoff with the 2445 5400kv motor?

4/5/2021 12:17:33 am

Yes but bear in mind this will put all the stress back on the motor. There is so little in price difference between 60 and 120a that I'd actually go with the 120A as mentioned in the article.

Moskito

3/9/2021 10:58:11 pm

I was actually hoping the 60A version is smaller, as I need to fit it into the 144001. But seems like it is same size as 120A... :(
So sticking to the 30A seems most promising.

Ben

2/5/2021 08:35:12 am

Hi, thanks so much for this article. It convinced me to go brushless. I first tried with a all-in-one cheap kit in aliexpress but the motor which arrived was undersized (2435 / 4300kv with 35a esc). There was cogging and it would not run in grass.

I ordered a 80a esc / 3650 4300 Kv motor. It’s really impressive but too much cogging indeed.

Is the 2445 motor a huge improvement over the 2435 ? Would it run smoothly on grass ?

My brushes motor was eating the grass perfectly. I could do backflip going full power with the car sitting at the bottom of a wall. Would it be possible with a brushless setup? Or cogging would prevent it to happen?

Many thanks again.

6/5/2021 09:09:29 am

Hi Ben. I haven't tried a 2435 in this car but have tried a 2440 and that's about as small as I'd go. I can definitively say the 2445 is a good option with the right ESC. There is no cogging with the ESC in this article.

Lauri Labe

5/5/2021 09:23:52 pm

Hi, I just love this site and builds!

I ordered a 124018 for my son and want to upgrade brushless, but rather than any others, I would like to lower the top speed and expand driving time. What do you think, would a 2445 and 3000kv be a good option?

6/5/2021 09:11:34 am

Thanks! I love feedback like this! Great approach. I'd stick with the 3600kv motor and lower throttle dual rate on the remote if you want to slow it down - acts as a scaled throttle limit. That way you can crank it up when he gets better (or if you want to play). The 3600kv motor runs very cool.

Adrian

15/5/2021 11:29:52 am

Hi, I bought all the bits, my original stock motor broke!
I got the 120amp ESC. Do I need to buy the program card or is it good out of the box?
Cheers

24/5/2021 09:57:45 am

Hi Adrian

You mean the 120a Hobbywing? Good choice. You can actually change all of the settings via the little programming button by the power switch.

Patrick

24/5/2021 08:07:45 am

Hey Quad,
How do you think a 60a goolrc esc would handle on this set up? Am I just better off getting a HW?

24/5/2021 09:58:40 am

Hey Patrick, go the hobbywing. GoolRC can be good in the right conditions but will never be as reliable or smooth as the Hobbywing options.

25/5/2021 03:39:50 pm

I came into an issue with the hobby wing ESC you recommended - after a small crash the esc blinks red and jolts the motor during startup. It heats up the motor really quick when I hit the throttle, but does not run. I swapped the ESC to a suprass one, but it runs super hot after a few speed runs. It is possible that the heat from the defective hobby wing ESC damaged the motor and is now causing it to run hot with my suprass ESC? You have stated that it should be pretty cool in your comments.

26/5/2021 01:22:03 pm

Sounds like the issue may with with the motor rather than the ESC? They are more susceptible to impact damage compared to the ESC. It's unlikely that the ESC would damage a motor.

Herst 11

6/6/2021 07:46:33 am

hi ,

For offroad which one has more torque? And for speedruns ?
2445 3600 or 2838 4400?
It’s for 124019
Thanks

8/6/2021 12:53:58 pm

Hi there. the 2838 4400kv is a larger more powerful motor than the 2445 3600kv however it does require drilling out the pinion to make it fit plus increasing the size of the holes on the motor mount. I hope that answers your question

Andrei

7/6/2021 10:14:12 pm

Hi, what do you think about a Racestart 2845? 3800-5000 KV? I intend to use the stock 17T pinion and the Remo tiers you recommended. Using the car mostly off road , grass / dirt.
Thank you!

8/6/2021 12:56:17 pm

They are very good motors and about the biggest i'd recommend for these cars. Personally I'd stay with the lower kV options. Stock pinion gear is 27t and I would definitely not run that. Personally I'd drill out the 15t to 3.2mm bore and run that if you wanted to use this motor with the Remo tyres on grass and dirt. You may need a bigger ESC than the one listed here. Consider the 2445 3600kv which is smaller but much easier to fit with no cutting or drilling required.

Henk

21/6/2021 12:59:02 am

Hi,

I don't understand the pinion gear info. I ordered like in your blog the 2445 3600KV. This has a 2.3mm axle shaft from the motor. But what does the 0.7mm mean?

I have ordered the wrong one for this motor. And the local seller have 15T 0.8mm and 15T 0.6mm what could i best choose?

21/6/2021 09:33:29 am

Hi Henk

It's actually 0.7m which stands for 0.7 modulus - a measure of the gear pitch. Pinions in this pitch are very rare and outside of stock, only the ones I've linked here fit. Nobody stocks these outside of the Aliexpress seller I've linked.

lawson

22/6/2021 05:53:38 pm

could i use a a959 17T pinion
cheers

23/6/2021 03:03:18 pm

Yes you can but you would need to slot the motor mount as per the ultimate brushless upgrade guide.

LAWSON

23/6/2021 05:45:59 pm

Sweet thanks mate!!

Rodrigo

24/6/2021 08:54:02 am

Hi!
Congrats for the tutorial. It will helps a lot!

I found this Surpass motor kit with esc 2445 3600KV + 35A Esc. Do you think it's worth it? ...instead of using esc Hobbywing? Thank you very much in advance!

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKnaYZj

24/6/2021 02:31:04 pm

Hey Rodrigo, I've tried that ESC and it's not bad but wouldn't trust it on 3s. That combo on 2s would be good (and it's cheap!!)

kamillo

1/7/2021 07:49:34 am

Hi,

thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I started with rc cars few weeks ago and it help me very much to understand how things are working.

Based on your article I bought the wltoys 124018 and modified to brushless setup with following components:

Racerstar 2445 - 5400 KV
WP-16BL30
FlySky FS-GT5
Pinion 15T

Motor is getting pretty hot, also in case of setting esc to lowest timing. So I decited to mount fan on it.

I changed the ESC settings 4. Start Mode to Level 5 and 8. Throttle Range to 6%.

I noticed a behavior which I could not find in your article or in the comments so I guess something is wrong with my setup.
When I was accelerating on stock setup, the throttle on my remote was very direct and sensitve related to the motor. But after brushless modification something changed. Throttle on my remote control is little bit less sensitive. It disturbes me, but I have no clue what the reason for it could be.

Any idea or advice what the reason could be?

Many thanks in advance.

1/7/2021 11:53:39 am

Hi Kamillo

It's a little hard to tell what the issue is with words and it's impossible to share video here. If you are on FB have a search for my group. If your motor is still getting hot after all that, consider picking up a 3600kv variant. As well as the kV the way you drive and conditions you drive in have a big impact on current draw and heat.

ARS link

2/7/2021 03:54:14 am

Thank you so much for such a detailed explanation.
Im a super noob here and Ive ordered the below setup exactly.

Racerstar 2445 5400kv Brushless Motor
Hobbywing 16BL30 Brushless 30A 2-3s ESC
ES3054 17g Metal Gear Digital Servo Motor
0.7mod 15t pinion gear
124019 motor mount
Amass T-plug deans connector

Can you advice if i can run a 3S on this setup with no issues?
I plan to lower the esc timing to 3.75 degrees as you mentioned so would that work?

I plan to use this for bashing mainly and the focus is not on getting 100 miles/hr but some decent speed will be nice.

2/7/2021 01:50:02 pm

Hi there, thanks for the feedback. If you are going bashing I'd probably drop back to 3600kv which is still plenty fast but gives you more room to breathe. The 5400kv is VERY fast even on 2s but does run hot as a result. I recommend 5400kv on 3s for onroad straightline speed runs only. 110+ kph is faster than a car like this really handle other than a straight line only build.

ARS

2/7/2021 02:20:16 pm

Thanks again for the quick response. I will place an order via your hyperlink for a 3600kv motor but Bangood takes forever (I would also think it’s my lack of patience )

I however expect to receive the 5400KV motor this week so if I run that on a 2s with reduced timing will it break anything or burn the motor ? This will be my first ever upgrade and I want to follow your guidance to T.

Sorry for multiple questions and I sincerely appreciate what you do.

2/7/2021 02:25:18 pm

No problem mate, happy to help. The 5400kv is crazy quick, just keep an eye on the temps (and don't use larger wheels!) and you'll be fine. To be honest I am fine on 5400kv but i know some others struggled.

Dropping esc timing to 3.75 is a good idea :) The ESC will jump into thermal protection mode if it starts to struggle so there is a failsafe there.

2/7/2021 02:28:35 pm

Awesome I’ll try it and let you know how it goes.
I follow every thread of yours and I’m using the p6973 wheels.

Kodak_jack link

2/7/2021 11:24:16 pm

The air flow problem is nicely addressed. I'm assuming you still needed to do this with the interior pieces removed, right? With the smaller motor physical size, were you OK with the X-brace in the flip- up top or did that/ should that be modified for more room? Stock Dean's connectors that come with the buggy seem to get in the way when closing the top. Do the recommended connectors help with that?

7/7/2021 10:50:43 pm

Thanks! Other than the panel pieces I trimmed (while still attached) there were no other changes. I kept the flip top as is, was still able to fit everything as is without needing to modify for space

8/7/2021 03:26:57 am

I read your articles and updates but in the end I was still in doubt. Would you help me? I am willing to make the adaptations for motor mounting if necessary (extra holes...). My goal is not to lose anything in speed and acceleration and gain in battery life. I would like to use 2S or 3S. My RC is 124018. Which kit do you suggest? Motor 2445 3600KV, pinion 17t ? Motor 2838 4500KV, pinion 17t ? Another configuration? another question, for 3S battery use, which ESC would you recommend in this kit?

Thank you in advance for your amazing work!!

8/7/2021 10:25:51 am

Hi Rodrigo

Definitely 3600kv 2445 and 15t pinion gear. It has a little more top speed and much more acceleration than stock with MUCH longer battery life - about double. You can then go to 3s for about 50% more speed

8/7/2021 10:47:39 am

Thank you very much!!

8/7/2021 09:22:27 am

Hi,

I has the WL 124018 just a big month at home. I tried to drive it with the delivered remote but was very difficult for me, The only other RC car i have is a WPL D12. So it's all new for me. But a good reason to buy a remote and receiver. I bought a Surpass Hobby remote and with a Dumborc receiver with Gyro. Also i bought the Surpass Hobby 2445 3600KV with 35A ESC and metal gear 17g servo. And the 15T pinion you mentioned. And it runs great! I love the break function. I am a noob with this and makes it a lot easier. It goes so fast and i need to learn how to handle. And it hurts me sometimes the mistakes i made and see the car rolling a few times. But it's so robust! Nothing broken yet It's a really robust car. More than i has thought! Thank you for your tips.

8/7/2021 10:27:33 am

My pleasure Henk, that's a nice setup you have there. Because you drop so much weight when you go to the smaller motor, there is a lot less energy in crashes and it is more durable as a result.

Scott

11/7/2021 10:14:26 pm

I am considering the 2445 3600KV drop in brushless upgrade, for a basher (and also considering larger tyres, up to maybe 85mm dia). i was looking at the 2838 before, but got scared off when i saw some youtube vids of how easy it is to get the pinion drilling wrong. i noticed the 2838 3800KV motor on the facebook modders group, the one that has a 2.3mm shaft. wouldnt that 2838 3800KV be a better motor than the 2445 3600KV, have no disadvantages, only advantages? is there any reason why this 2838 wouldn't be the go-to "drop-in" brushless upgrade?

16/7/2021 03:48:33 pm

That 2838 3800kv motor from aliexpress looks like a good option although I have not tested myself. A friend who has tried both said they are very similar in practice (to the 2445 3600kv). The only reason I don't recommend is because there is only one vendor and little stock. The motor is an older design too but don't think that really holds it back. The 2445 3600kv is my favourite light basher setup by extension I'm sure that aliexpress motor would be good too.

Gunnar

19/7/2021 09:31:07 pm

Looking to build my 144001 into more of a basher and have need of a controller that can be reversed on the fly. What's your thoughts on this setup with a Flysky NB4?

30/7/2021 03:33:12 pm

You mean this one? https://bit.ly/32EyFKB It's an outstanding radio set for the money, I strongly recommend it.

KayRC

24/7/2021 05:06:03 pm

Thank you for sharing this. Have applied for the FB group membership too.
I bought this 15t pinion. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848991441.html
Would this work with this 2445 3600kv brushless setup? Waiting for the parts to arrive currently..

30/7/2021 03:34:05 pm

No problem, hopefully you're already in! The pinion you linked is perfect

Pete

29/7/2021 07:21:00 pm

Hello!

I have followed your drop in upgrade with ESC HW 16BL30 and Racestar 5400 motor and I was happy until I upgraded wheels. I chose some wheels from aliexpress with dimensions 75x30mm and 44 grams. It is lighter and smaller then your recommanded wheels. My problem is that with a new wheels I get thermal cut off after 3 minutes of running on 3/4 throttle. I lowerd timing on ESC to 3,75deg. After this cut off comes after 5 minutes. I run in the same condtions as on shock tires where I didnt have issue with the temperature. Another big disadvantage is running time, with new wheels I got 40% less then with stock :(

I suppose you are mainly running with non stock wheels. You dont have this issue? It is probably because better grip. I will probably have to stay with stock tires which are not good and have poor stamina.

Anyway thank you for your website, it is very usefull!

30/7/2021 03:36:28 pm

Hey Pete

I mostly ran the 5400kv setup on stock or slightly smaller wheels. When I switched to the 3600kv motor it gave me more options for larger wheels and so stuck with that. I like the 5400kv motor but depending on where and how you drive it does tend to run hot. I think if you have lowered the timing already then perhaps consider the 3600kv motor.

Dennis

5/9/2021 03:45:20 pm

Hi. It looks like you really know your stuff! I just recently inquired a 12th scale (unsure of manufacturer) but its the Wild Challenger Turbo 2wd truck. It has (now has) all metal A-arms front/rear, metal axles and knuckles, brushless 60A esc & motor, I think factory rx but it may be a diy receiver. Originally servo and 5 wires go toward servo. The radio is a 2.4ghz M2R Racing. It was evidently running at one time and I have managed to get an output from esc to motor and it sounds mean! I am just wanting to get a quick recommendation to get it going again. If you need pics I can send. Thanks in advance, Dennis

5/9/2021 10:10:52 pm

Hi Dennis, thanks. Sorry not familiar with that model. If the controller say M2r it sounds like WL toys or a rebrand but I'm not aware of a 2wd model they make. If that is the case through they usually run and brushed ESC and receiver combined with an all in one servo. If yours is brushless that sounds aftermarket and all bets are off.

Yasin

17/9/2021 07:14:10 am

Hi QUADIFYRC, You're awesome!
Thank you very much for providing al your work en information. I've read and learned a lot of fun things here :)

I'm gonna upgrade my 124018. I use it for riding in through sand, forest, grass and speed runs on the streets. I am considering 3600kv, or even the 3000kv motor, but then with larger wheels. I would like to have more ground clearance, but also a good top speed. WHat wheel and kv motor do you recommend? What would be the speed in your experience?

Thanks again! :)

QUADIFYRC RC Car Review and Upgrade Guides

DROP IN Brushless Upgrade Guide for WL TOys 144001, 124018 and 124019 [QuadifyRC]

Leave a Reply.

Archives

Categories