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One thing you'll notice about the pro version of the ZD Racing EX16 is that it has these beautiful small scale aluminium oil filled shocks, they look amazing. Sadly whoever assembles the ZD racing cars has led them down badly because the suspension is set up poorly from the factory. It can however easily be fixed and I'll show you just how to do that in this guide This is the third of a 3 part series of tuning guides for the ZD Racing EX16. The others can be found here:  I'll address 3 suspension fixes in this article: Filling the shocks with oil, suspension geometry and droop screws. Read on!
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THE ZD RACING EX16 is an awesome looking little RC Car and has nice components especially if you look at the pro variant with discrete electronics. The most glaringly bad aspect of this car however is the driveline which binds terribly. Left as is it will put unnecessary strain on motor, esc, battery and will reduce acceleration, top speed and battery life as well as causing the car to run hot. The root cause took me a while to troubleshoot but I found it and have come up with a fix that means you don't have to pull the car apart. This is the second of a 3 part series of tuning guides for the ZD Racing EX16. The others can be found here:  What is the cause of the binding?
Like many ready to run RC cars, the ZD Racing EX16 has terrible throttle and steering sensitivity out of the box but. The good news it is very easy to fix as you'll find in my brief guide below. This is the first of a 3 part series of tuning guides for the ZD Racing EX16. The others can be found here:  Hobby grade RC cars have proportional steering and throttle meaning the amount you squeeze the trigger or turn the steering wheel is reflected by the RC with a proportional amount of motor speed or wheel turning. In theory that is. The ZD Racing EX16 is poorly setup from the factory which, to be fair is the same of most cars but it's really easy to fix with the dials on your transmitter.
The ZD Racing EX-07 Is a massive 1/7 scale street bash RC car based on the looks of Ken Block's restomod Hoonicorn Mustang V1. It is available as a ready to run car with everything or a kit version without the electronics and I've chosen the latter. They have got the looks 90% of the way to looking amazing but let themselves down on the final execution, with the body drooping badly around the front of the windscreen it kicks the nose up awkwardly and makes it weaker too. In this guide I will show you how to fix that and make some other easy improvements to the stance to make it look even better than the Arrma Infraction and Felony that it competes with.  A quick note that this is not a review - I plan to do that soon but it's taking a while since I bought the kit version knowing that the stock electronics are a little sketchy. This allows me to choose my own servo, ESC and motor to get the performance and reliability I want. In this article I'll show you how to fix the horrible sag in the body the makes the nose point up, adjust the stance to make it more even by modding the body posts and droop screw settings and lastly an option for different wheels which in my opinion really set the car off.
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