Wl Toys 124016 124017 EAT14 Cogging Issue [Solved]

26/10/2021

QuadifyRC 124016 124017 EAT14 cogging issue fix

The WL Toys 124016 and 124017 (and the Eachine EAT14) have a major issue with cogging - the stuttering that occurs when accelerating from standstill or low speed and is a major downside to these recent releases. Cogging in your car is not by bad luck but by design choice; in the search for top speed bragging rights, the tall gearing has really compromised these cars ability to accelerate. Never fear, QuadifyRC to the rescue! I'll give you 3 and a bit options on how to fix this issue by addressing the root cause rather than by going on a wild goose chase and addressing the wrong things.

Cogging - The Root Cause

As soon as I found out WL Toys and Eachine had retained the big 27t pinion from the brushed models I knew they would be fast but were going to be poor on acceleration. This turned out to be correct as you can see on my Eachine EAT14 review which has the same running gear as the 124016 and 124017. You can get away with this big pinion on a brushed motor (like with the 144001, 124018 and 124019) because of the way they work but not on a brushless motor because of the way they differ mechanically. Cogging is when the electromagnetic field invoked by the motor is not strong enough for the motor rotate and catch the next pole thereby getting out of phase and rocking back and forth; it's that jiggle your car make before it takes off. So what causes it? The motor can not generate enough torque for the given load. The 2845 is not a small motor for a car this size so it is safe to assume that it is the load that is unreasonably high due the very tall (fast) gearing.

Since we know the root cause we need to address it directly in order to get the best quality solution but before I do that I'll let you know the things that will NOT fix it:

Adjusting the setting with the programming cards. This only works when the car is working properly and you want to tune how it feels - stronger acceleration, stronger breaking, how fast you want reverse to be and function like this. By all means get programming card - this one I reviewed here works for this ESC but cranking up punch (acceleration power) will not solve this, it will in fact increase the risk of damaging motor and ESC.

Adding more power with more cells. You'll see I mentioned that the motor didn't have enough power to turn so what if we go up from 2s to 3s to give it more power? Well, you haven't addressed the real issue which is the load, not the motor power. Increasing the power to the motor will make it more likely to spin but it wont fix the cogging and you will more than likely do damage for anything but speed run passes.

Cogging Solution

So it's clear by now we need to reduce the load on the motor, The drivetrain runs freely so it's not like anything is binding. This leaves us with the gear ratio. As mentioned it's really tall and so dropping the pinion size will resolve this. Easy right? I'm afraid not quite for 2 reasons:

This car does not have an adjustable motor mount
Even if it did, these cars use mod0.7 gears which are painfully uncommon.

I still have fixes however and will take you through the options based on what you want to spend and what you expect to achieve.

Solution 1 - Minimum spend re-using as much as possible.

Parts Needed. Here we will reuse all of the electronics and will need to do a small amount of drilling and filing to get a reliable car that performs well at minimum spend. For this we will need:

WL Toys 144001 Motor Mount

Unicorn mod0.7 15t pinion gear from Aliexpress These are the ONLY places you can get if from

3.2mm or 1/8" drill bit. Here is a link to a set with a 3.2mm bit but you can probably get from your local hardware store.

2.5mm and 3mm drill bits. Here is a handy set although you may already have these

Installation guide. In addition to the above you'll want a little butane blow torch. These can typically bought for less than $5 and are needed to melt the super strong threadlock that WL toys use. Follow the steps below to remove the motor:

Unscrew and remove the top deck by removing the 8 screws circled in white

Heat and remove the 2 screws from underneath holding the motor mount on

Rotate and remove the motor and motor mount. Unplug the motor to separate from the car

Heat up the grub screw of the pinion gear (a lot), unscrew with a good 1.5mm driver and remove the pinion

Heat up the motor mount screws and I mean absolutely torch them. Unscrew with a good posidrive bit.

Look how much loctite (read: superglue) mine had. Take car as you'll need to reuse these. Don't worry, once out the old loctite comes of easily.

Next we need to use the 144001 motor mount as it has preset holes the align for perfect mesh with the 15t pinion. A little bit of material remove is required to make this fit. Take care in enlarging the pinion bore especially as it is easy to get off centre. I'd recommend ordering at least 2 pinions for this reason as they are cheap but have a long delivery time.

Take 3mm drill bit and enlarge these holes from 2.5mm to 3mm

Take a 6mm or larger drill bit and increase the countersink so the larger m3 countersunk screws (re-used) will not sit proud from the motor mount.

Install the stock 2845 3400kv motor on the 144001 mount you have just modded.

Enlarge pinion gear bore from 2.3mm to 3.0mm. I'd recommend using oil or cutting fluid to assist and increase bit size gradually e.g. 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 3.2mm as it is crucial to have centred correctly

Install the pinion on the motor and tighten just a little.

Trim the lower spur gear shroud as above with a sharp knife. This plastic is soft and thin so easy to cut.

Reinstall the motor mount by rotating around the bearing mount. Install motor mount screws from under the chassis, position pinion in line with spur gear and tighten the grub screw up tight.

You'll need to trim the upper gear shroud a little too.

From here do the reverse of what you did earlier, reinstalling the gear shrouds, motor plugs and of course the top deck. It should look almost identical from before but you may notice the the motor now sits inside the car a little further.

Performance. Make no mistake, on the same 2s pack this car will be slower, I measured 44km/h with my GPS on stock wheels and just under 50km/h on these wheels. Cogging is completely gone though and you will also have the other benefits:

Much stronger acceleration
Much more battery life
More more throttle resolution (smoother) at lower speeds
ESC and motor will run much cooler (longer running life)

All these add up to a much better experience for off-road at the cost of some top speed. Clearly this won't help for those of you wanting straight line speed runs but the majority of use want a car that runs equally well on all surfaces and all terrains and 50km/h is still quick for a car this size. If that is unacceptable though you can easily jump up to a 3s battery and hit 70km/h plus quite comfortably. This is well within the thermal envelope of this ESC / motor combo, See below for proof of the cogging fix and how the car performs plus a look at the efficiency this new gear ratio brings.

Solution 2: Easiest Install

Parts needed. As I showed in my Drop in brushless upgrade guide for the 144001 / 124018 / 124019 there is a much easier install path but you will need to but another motor. For the additional $10-15 outlay though you will not need to drill, file or cut and in my opinion is well worthwhile

WL Toys 144001 Motor Mount

Unicorn mod0.7 15t pinion gear from Aliexpress These are the ONLY places you can get if from

Surpass Hobby or Racerstar 2445 brushless motor. I recommend 3600kv but more on this and the 5400kv option further below.

M2.5 countersunk screws (8mm)

As per the first option you'll need to remove the motor but since you are using a new motor mount, motor, pinion and screws, you can leave that whole assembly intact and set aside.

Unscrew and remove the top deck by removing the 8 screws circled in white

Heat and remove the 2 screws from underneath holding the motor mount on

Rotate and remove the motor and motor mount. Unplug the motor to separate from the car. Put this entire unit to the side (you don't need to reuse any of these parts)

Installing the motor and other hardware is super easy now since you don't need to bore out the pinion nor the motor mount.

Screw your new motor into the new motor mount using the new m2.5 countersunk screws in the holes as show above and loosely install the pinion gear

Trim the lower spur gear shroud as above with a sharp knife. This plastic is soft and thin so easy to cut.

Trim the upper gear shroud as well

Reinstall the motor mount by rotating around the bearing mount. Install motor mount screws from under the chassis, position pinion in line with spur gear and tighten the grub screw up tight.

From here do the reverse of what you did earlier, reinstalling the gear shrouds, motor plugs and of course the top deck. This motor is the same length as the stock motor but smaller in diameter so should be more roomy.

Performance. Although it took a lot less effort to get to this point due to a direct fitting motor the outcome is very similar to option 1. Note: since the gear ratio is a lot more conservative, the smaller 2445 is not really disadvantaged towards the stock 2845 motor. In addition to the same benefits as the option 1 (acceleration, battery life, smoother throttle, less heat), you also get a lighter and more balanced car as a result. Again, a much nice drive over a wide range of surfaces. Top speed on 2s is 50km/h and 3s is 72km/h, you can read more about performance in my 144001 / 124018 / 124019 Drop In Brushless Upgrade Guide here as it is essentially the same setup

Solution 2B: Easiest Install, high speed

What about the 5400kv 2445 motor? You can of course install this motor as an option too, it is super quick - 78km/h on 2s and 109km/h on 3s as seen in my original drop in brushless upgrade guide. It does run hot thought so would only really consider it for on-road applications. The stock ESC should handle this motor just fine, especially with that great big fan. If you want to see more discussion on 2s vs 3s and different kV options then read this article: RC CAR THEORY: 2S VS. 3S, HIGH KV VS. LOW KV

Solution 3: The best no-compromise setup

If you want the very best setup in this car and are not afraid to get your hands dirty then the best no-compromise motor I can recommend for this car is a 2838 or 2845 sized brushless motor (like the stock motor) but in a more appropriate kV that suits the 15t pinion better, I recommend around 4500kv if you plan to bash hard or use bigger wheels or around 5000kv if sticking with the stock sized wheels and not pushing your cars on such tough terrain. These motor should net you around 60-70kph and run fairly cool. Below are some recommendations in this size:

My Personal Recommendation

Surpass Hobby 2838 KK Series Brushless Waterproof Motor
Probably a better size for the EAT14, gives you more room to work. I like 4400 and 5100kV options here.

Surpass Hobby 2845 KK Series Brushless Waterproof Motor
At time of writing this has the best range of kV options - I like 4400kV and 5000kV here. Remember Racerstar 2845 is the same motor in case it is cheaper

Tenshock 2938 Brushless Motor X1401
This motor is a 2938 size and is a step above performance if you have some extra $$ burning a hole in your pocket. 4850kV is my pick

So there you have it, 3-4 genuine options to resolve the cogging issue in the 124016, 124017 and EAT14. My personal preference is for the second option (a or b) because it is just so much easier but if you have the tools and patience then do consider option 1 to make use of the stock motor. As I said solution 3 would be the best performing but is the worst combination of money and work required.

Before I wrap this up I'll give you a little bonus: my favourite radio options if you wish to upgrade from the barely acceptable range on the stock radio. These directly replace the stock transmitter and receiver:

DumboRC X6. Fantastic value for money radio and even includes a gyro receiver. My full review on the radio here

DumboRC X6a. Different colour option but otherwise same as the X6 in case this one is cheaper. My full review on the radio here

FlyskyFS-GT5. If you want to spend a bit more and get a very capable radio with gyro and multi model memory. My full review and gyro setup of this radio here

If you are looking for a discount on this car, I will post any coupon codes or flash sales for it over here on my coupons and discounts page. Remember buying from any of these links supports my page without any cost to you and is appreciated especially since I don't ask for money via patreon and the like. If you want to get involved in this discussion, feel free to join the QuadifyRC Facebook Group Here or like my page below.

68 Comments

27/10/2021 12:36:58 am

Thanks for the guide - very important
but i couldn't understand why you do not recommend option 3 and why it's harder to preform - you didn't specify does it require more work than option B? in what?
as both contain motor replacement

Geoffrey Chan

27/10/2021 05:00:22 am

Option 3 is the same as Option 1, except you're replacing the motor for a higher KV option. It's not hard, just costs more (~$25) to do because of the motor.

QuadifyRC

27/10/2021 11:09:18 am

As usual Geoffrey's got it right and says it clearer than me! Only reason I don't recommend option 3 more is because it is more expensive because of the extra motor you buy and is more involved to fit than the 2445. There is no doubt this will give you the best performance though.

Ash

27/10/2021 01:13:48 am

Been waiting for you to upload this and very thankful you have.

Just to confirm, if I have a 15T pinion left over from your guide for the 124019, this will work for any of the solutions above where you have mentioned the 15T pinion.

All the motor options will work with the motor mount and pinion? It's just deciding what combination to go with?

Thanks again for your help

27/10/2021 11:07:29 am

Hi Ash, my pleasure. Yep, This is the magical pinion. I've just ordered another 3! Pretty much deciding how you want the car to perform. Because I'm largely lazy I like the 2445 with motor mount but as for the best performance? 2838 5000ish kV if you don't mind getting your hand dirty.

27/10/2021 12:38:50 pm

Thanks mate,
Grabbed a new motor mount, the screws and a 2845 in the 4370kv flavour. I went with slightly less kv based on your comments as I have the Remo wheels and might try out the others you have mentioned for off-road soon.
Any suggestions on where to grab a decent 3S battery?

Dale

28/8/2022 05:54:06 pm

Hi mate
Great write up
Gonna mod my EAT14 soon
So all I need for is a 14410 motor mount and a new pinion.
Does it have to be 15T?
Can you use a 17 or 19
As long as centre hole is 3mm or smaller
What is meant by mod 0.7 pinion.
Any help appreciated
Thanks buddy
Dale

Tristan

27/10/2021 11:24:31 am

Do any/all these options require change of the bullet connectors between motor and ESC? My understanding is that bullet size changes from 3.5mm to 5mm somewhere around these motor sizes... Is that right?

27/10/2021 12:14:52 pm

All use 3.5mm bullets here so no changes needed

kodak_jack link

27/10/2021 12:12:52 pm

Thanks for dropping in at RC Groups and sharing what you found/ did.

27/10/2021 12:15:51 pm

My pleasure buddy, I grew up with forums and even BBS's so haven't forgotten!

Kodak thinks WLToys are trash

27/10/2021 08:27:06 pm

Kodak you are such a hypocrite. On some forums you have spent countless hours tearing into these models, trying convince everyone they are trash and not to buy them (not hobby grade, just toys).

Yet here you are. Pathetic.

28/10/2021 10:29:12 am

No need for that here, if your issue is on RC Groups you can discuss that there.

Isaac

28/10/2021 09:12:55 am

Good write-up Quad!

I found these tires on Ebay, they are 75x30mm. I think they will be good for the Wltoys cars, and since they have a 12mm hex they will bolt right on. They are actually made for the 144001, check out how they put on the body! lol
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393405346581
They are also not too expensive ($16.30), and they have a semi-aggressive tread pattern, they kinda remind me of the tires you used on the 144001 with the sway bars. Should be good, if the compound isn't rock hard. Maybe you could try these out?

Hopefully they are good! If they are I might get them, if the Remos aren't avalabile

28/10/2021 10:31:52 am

Thanks Isaac.

From A size perspective they look great. I've seen that rim design before though and have looked at a lot of pictures of them broken at the hub. Remos are still my recommendations or those 1822 wheels I review recently.

I'll have a look in to the wheels you recommended a little closer.

29/10/2021 12:53:51 pm

Yep, it's not easy, as you've said, finding wheels in this size, as the diameter is not as common as 1/10, and many of the remaining tires are like 25-6mm wide which is too narrow for the rear. Just thought that it would be best to let you know, the more options the better! Who knows, perhaps these grip as good as the Remos! Let's hope that this wheel isn't too weak, as long as it can hold up to medium bashing, that's good enough for me.

Thanks for offering to look into it, I know you're pretty busy!

vanzeller

29/10/2021 12:46:24 am

I found these new brushless versions very disappointing especially considering the price. Speaking of price, I feel like you should have mentioned that if one is going through all the trouble of replacing the motor, might as well get a super cheap 144001 and do a brushless conversion. It's the same effort and it'll likely end up costing less!

Anyway solid write up as usual. I really like your work - regards from Portugal.

29/10/2021 12:49:54 am

Thanks and I agree. In fact I've already started this exact article to compare cost and performance

Jeremy

1/11/2021 06:19:13 am

These are all good solutions, but have you tried only changing the ESC from Surpass to Hobbywing? I know that it won't make the motor any bigger or the gearing any lower, but I find that Hobbywing ESCs have much smoother starts. I suspect that just throwing in a 16BL30 is a great option for 2S in these cars, or a 10BL60 or 10BL120 for 3S.

2/11/2021 12:06:05 am

Hobbywing ESCs are definitely smoother but it's kinda papering over this main issue, that being the gearing. A 16BL30 with this gearing would be a bit on the small size, even on 2s

Domingo

1/11/2021 09:01:32 am

Hello, thank you very much for the guide.
Before there was not a small pinion that did not have to be drilled for these engines?

1/11/2021 11:21:03 am

Another question, how would it go in this car or more specifically in the 124017 the 2440 engine with 4000kw and the 15 pinion to run with a car on rc dirt circuits

2/11/2021 12:08:14 am

Probably a little to small. I'd go 2445 3600kv or if you don't mind drilling then something in 2845.

2/11/2021 12:07:19 am

Unfortunately never a pinion in this pitch with a 3.2mm shaft smaller than 27t. You can get a 24mm diameter motor that comes with a 2.3mm shaft that fits directly though.

Bill link

1/11/2021 11:25:10 am

It seems a big step to go from 27 to 15 teeth. It's going to slow the car down an awful lot.
I've ordered a 17 toothed pinion ( meant for an WLTOYS A959). I'm hoping to use this with a 144001 adjustable motor mount. Why go for the adjustable mount? Well the two small mounting holes aren't present on the adjustable mount. This (hopefully) will allow me to mesh the 17T pinion, mark the position of the motor against the new motor mount, and then drill fresh holes in the mount to allow the motor to be attached.
17T from a 27T won't be such a severe change as the 15T option.
I'll keep you updated when the parts arrive.
If it works out well, I may order a dozen or so, convert them and sell them as a bolt-on mod via ebay.....

marky

1/11/2021 03:03:38 pm

I just ordered the same thing :)

Wonder if there's an easier option swapping the pinion and spur over to something else??

2/11/2021 12:12:41 am

Unfortunately no other spur options. I wish there was something on M0.6

2/11/2021 12:11:47 am

Hi Bill. Yep, the 17t is definitely a better option on this motor but didn't mention here because it is a pain in the arse for most to slot a motor. I'd rather buy a motor with a more appropriate kv on sale for around $10 than slot the mount again.

What you mentioned with drilling holes works, Ron from my facebook group does this because there is plenty of meat on the mount in that location. If you want to make a few then a jig is a good option but you probably know that already.

Don't forget you'll need to take the pinion bore up from 2.3mm to 3.2mm as well

Bill

21/12/2021 10:13:49 am

Well I received the bits, 17t cog, adjustable mount and carried out the planned mods. Worked out very well. Quite difficult to get the gears to mesh "just right". Not too much play and not excessively meshed. Ended up mounting the motor using 3 mounting screws instead of 2 and used 2 of them to oppose each other when tightening to make small adjustments to to motor position (mesh).

Additional advice I can offer is rotate the motor maybe 30 degrees clockwise from the "screw holes vertical position" Because if you don't, the motor cooling fins will foul against the top centre frame ( Fitting the smaller cog means that the motor position is shifted closer to the centre line of the body ).
Another thing I discovered was that increased torque sheared the pin inside one of the front CV joints. I had originally used a surpass card to reprogram the esc for "strong" start torque because of the original cogging issue. I think that this combined with the increased torque from fitting the smaller drive cog caused this pin to shear. I've changed the esc program for "low" start torque now. Take off is just great, so I'm going to leave it like this for now. Next step....FPV setup!

Pablo

3/11/2021 08:53:26 am

Hello from Mexico Quad.
Thanks for the guide. On the official website of Lcracing there is a wide assortment of parts that are compatible with Wltoys, including L6027 MOTOR MOUNT ALU (https://shop.lcracing.net/products/l6027?variant=30298866090097) and pinions of different sizes. Will this mount motor be compatible with wltoys 124016? And what about the pinions if the fit in wltoys 124016?

6/11/2021 11:19:46 pm

Hola from NZ Pablo. The mount can fit but needs a lot of shimming, I wouldn't recommend. LC racing uses a more common m0.6 pitch as opposed to these cars which use a very rare M0.7

Nathan

12/11/2021 12:20:37 pm

Would the combination of the 27t pinion and the 2445 (5400kv for arguments sake) produce cogging? Is it the size of the stock 2845 that is the problem or is it down to the 27t pinion regardless of motor size?

16/11/2021 12:22:17 pm

If it could fit (it won't) that'd be a disaster. It's like taking the issues with the EAT14 and making them worse. It's the 27t pinion that is the issue here.

nathan

16/11/2021 04:49:55 pm

After re-reading your thread i get it. Thanks for putting up with noob questions like mine.

29/11/2021 04:32:13 pm

No probs, we all start somewhere!

Yasin

19/11/2021 09:43:26 pm

Too bad the service at banggood is terrible. Do we have another choice to order from? Anything but banggood. When they don't deliver or deliver broken stuff they don't read your warrenty claims, they just stall for time saying it is all good.

29/11/2021 04:33:24 pm

That's a shame, I've had over 300 orders and only once has the wrong thing turned up (which they promptly refunded). Aliexpress is worth a look but you need to research the vendor. Consider makerfire as well but they have less items.

wolfhusky

21/11/2021 09:27:02 pm

Hi Quadifyrc - and greetings from Germany,

thank you very much for your insightful guide! I am completely new to the hobby of rc cars and will start (X-max :-) with the 124017. Therefore please forgive me, if my question is nonsense...

I understood, that the main problem is the transmission ratio in combination with the out-of-the-box motors torque. The torque is too low OR the transmission too high. Hope this is correct?

If it is, wouldn't it work to just upgrade the motor to one with more torque (and lower rpm)? I'am asking, because I would expect to be able to "simply replace" the old with a new motor and be done with it. Without the new pinion and motor mount from Solution 1 and no drilling.

Regards
Jan

29/11/2021 04:35:48 pm

Hi Jan! Your question is very clear - the issue is the gearing is too tall. The torque on the motor is just fine and that's why the changes I've recommended here all revolved on correcting the gearing.

You can move to a larger motor which is the only real way to get more torque but this brings more heat and weight which I really dislike. If you really want to go down this track have a look at a 3650 motor around 3000kv

Mike

24/11/2021 08:00:34 am

I've seen online that WL Toys have updated the 124017 to come with a 2845 4300KV motor and 19t pinion. And they've apparently modified the TX to improve the range as well. I've just ordered a 124017, and hoping I receive the revised setup.

24/11/2021 10:11:58 am

Where did you ordered from?
I’ve asked Bangood if their version is the new revised one, they didn’t know what I’m talking about and said no upgrades has been done to those units
so ridiculous that they are not aware to this
The EAT14 could be perfect if it was modified

25/11/2021 02:06:47 am

I ordered from Banggood. No mention of the revised version on their website (I only became aware of it after I'd ordered). It did say it was a preorder, so that gave me some hope it'd be the latest version, but the tracking also says it's already been shipped. It's the Makerfire website that mentions the revised 124017 specs, and they only have it as a preorder.

Todd Thomas

5/12/2021 09:36:30 am

I order two 124017 from Bangood one on 2021-11-10 and one on 2021-10-18. They both arrived to gather a couple of day ago. I opened one and it had blue motor mounts. I just tried it and there is no cogging on grass.

Now what to do with all the part I bought in anticipation of receiving v1?

The car is kind of perfect as is.

29/11/2021 04:37:23 pm

Yes I saw makerfire announce this but have seen nothing since. I think the 19t with the stock motor would be a good option. 4300kv is better suited to 15 or 17t

1/12/2021 02:25:13 pm

Well my 124017 arrived from banggood on the 29/11, and it does seem to have the revised gearing. I've prised open the gear cover and counter the pinion teeth. Not easy to do, but I seem to be counting around 19, but definitely nowhere near 27t. I can't see any markings on the motor to identify what kv it is. Only other thing of note is that mine has a blue motor mounting plate, whereas others I've seen online have a gold motor plate. Don't know if that signifies it's a different size (to accommodate the smaller pinion), or if they've just changed the anodising colour.

I won't be running it just yet as it's a Christmas present for my lad. If it wasn't the revised gearing model I'd have ordered up some parts to modify it with.

10/12/2021 10:55:06 am

You've definitely got the V2 - interesting. That blue motor plate is the easiest tell. Have a fun Christmas with your little man!

Dogma

5/12/2021 03:13:22 am

Hey.tbanks for your effort trying to help so many people.
What if i just replace the esc with another branded one like hobbywing? Will that fix the cogging problen?

5/12/2021 09:21:20 am

No, the gearing is too high for a sensorless drive to cope with. Changing ESC won't help.

10/12/2021 10:56:02 am

My pleasure, it's a part of the hobby for me. I've heard having some improvement with an ESC like a 10BL120 but it's not a complete fix and still doesn't address the main issue (gear ratio)

Jan

5/12/2021 08:22:56 am

I am now following your Solution 2 but with a motor from Solution 3.

Therefore, I tried to find a 2845 motor with a shaft diameter of 2.3 mm (to match the pinion 15T mod0.7 with 2.2 mm diameter). So far I did not succeed and found only 2445 motors with a fitting shaft diameter. All on Alibaba / Bangood 2845 were 3.125 mm. Do you know any 2845 (e.g. 4400 kv) with a 2.3 mm shaft?

As an alternative: Would it also work to take a fitting 2845 with a 3.125 mm shaft and combine it with a pinion with 3.1 mm? Can you recommend a good combination? I guess I would have to choose a T15, T17 or T19 with 0.7mod and fitting inner diameter...

Thanks and regards
jan

10/12/2021 10:51:34 am

I'm afraid a 2845 motor with 2.3mm shaft does not exist. The 2445 is the largest with a 2.3mm shaft other than that random orange 2838 from aliexpress. The combinations here are the ones I recommend and are pretty exhaustive

Stephane

30/12/2021 09:35:09 am

hello, I don t know much about it.
what do you mean for the 2838 orange 2.3 mm random engine?

ade husni

7/12/2021 03:15:30 pm

hii can i install bigger motor? like 3650 4300k? will it fit and what about heat and speed? thankyou

10/12/2021 10:52:40 am

If you want to go for speed runs, sure. I don't like them for any other application because they are unbalanced for weight and tend to heat the car up excessively. Gearing is still not suitable for offroad either.

Nik

18/12/2021 01:13:54 am

Hi, I have tried your solution with the 2445 racestar motors both 5400kv and the 3600kv with the 15 tooth pinion (ordered from the link in your solution) I am still getting the cogging just as bad as the original motor and pinion from both motors. Am I missing something or have I missed understood?
Thank you so much for your advice with this it really is appreciated, your website is a fantastic source of information especially for an old returning RC enthusiast.
Thanks
Nik

Dustin Gautreaux

28/12/2021 12:15:57 pm

Hi there, wonderful write up! Quick question. I've ordered the surpass hobby 2845 5000kv. Will this be a simple motor swap or am I looking at drilling new holes in motor mount and drilling out pinion bore? Just want to know what I'm getting into before I break those screws loose. Thank you!

Berni

6/1/2022 07:27:36 am

Hello, here you have the new 2845 4300 kv motor, with the 19t gear and with the motor support.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_uHrj8r

Karl

14/1/2022 03:15:41 am

Hey!

Ordered myself 124017 V2 after finishing 124019 drop in brushless swap and I was wondering...
Can I directly blug in dumborc reviever with gyro to 124017 and will it work with dumbo remote?
Had to calibrate esc in my 124019 but I am not sure if calibrate option is available on 124017.

Loving your guides ;) always doing everything with those guides. My first shock oil fill and diff grease was done with your help!

14/1/2022 11:01:00 pm

Hello
thank you for your guides who make me discover a new world
I have just equipped myself with a 124016 v2
it works very well but the speed does not interest me I prefer to privilege the torque
what would be the best option for bash staying in 2845 and 19t?
3100,3200,3300or 3600kv?
I plan to use 85mm, 90mm wheels,...
Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.
Google translation

STEPHANE

15/1/2022 04:57:48 am

3100,3200,3400, or 3600kv?
the 3300kv does not exist in 3.175

Willie link

19/2/2022 07:28:43 am

Excellent post. Helps me a lot on developing options for this car. I ended up with DIY Mod1 31T Spur and an adjustable motor mount that would accept Mod1 pinion.

Diego

20/3/2022 10:53:27 am

Hello, is there any other place other than AliExpress to buy the 15t pinion? Shipping costs are at 43 eur plus product cost
One question which might sound a little but silly : what change is required to move away from mod0.7? Thank you

Martin

12/5/2022 08:11:35 am

My badly cogging and over-fast Eat14 has just had the option 2 treatment and is a much better car for it. Thank you.

This site is a fantastic resource.

Please, I want to buy cars for my two children. I want them to have the experience a Tamiya build brings but I also want them to have a cheap and fast car like my Eachine.

Have you by any chance written a set of assembly instructions for the 144001?

In the dream scenario I would buy two 144001 (or similar) and dismantle them before giving as presents with a set of instructions.

I don't think I could do it myself with decent enough illustrations.

12/5/2022 11:28:59 am

Hi Martin

GLad to hear it worked out! Option 2 is my favourite :)

These two articles may help:

https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wl-toys-144001-setup-3-things-you-must-do-before-you-even-turn-it-on

https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wl-toys-144001-free-or-budget-upgrades-part-2

Raphael link

19/9/2022 05:17:51 am

Great write-up!

I got one last week, and the car takes a FULL 2 seconds from the time I push on the controller till the time the vehicle takes off.

I was about to buy the motor you recommend to fix it, and discovered that mine has
Motor:2845 4300KV bürstenloser Motor (mit 0.7m, 19T Getriebe)

It looks like the problem should be solved, so why is it hesitating SO much?!

Thanks for the great info!

19/9/2022 08:41:32 am

Hey mate
I installed the 19T pinion along with WL toys new motor mount
Cogging completely gone on my EAT14
100% better

19/9/2022 12:11:18 pm

Excellent!!

19/9/2022 12:10:57 pm

Hi Raphael

2 different things happening here. The V1 124017 has a cogging issue which is a bogging down under light loads. What you are describing is the delay in the ESC. This is resolved by replacing the ESC if you cannot live with it. Some have reported improvements by replacing the transmitter / receiver only but this is not as effective. 2 seconds does sound extreme so there may be something else going on?

QUADIFYRC RC Car Review and Upgrade Guides

Wl Toys 124016 124017 EAT14 Cogging Issue [Solved]

QuadifyRC 124016 124017 EAT14 cogging issue fix

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