HBX 16889A PRO REVIEW: I THINK THIS IS THE BEST SMALL BASHER I'VE EVER HAD

HBX 16889a Pro Review: I think this is The best Small Basher I've ever had

15/8/2021

The HBX 16889a Pro is a highly specced 1/16 scale 4wd offroad RC monster truck from Haiboxing (HBX). It is based on the same car released under the names SG 1601, SG 1602 and HBX 16889 that I reviewed over a year ago here which also won my basher of the year in 2020. This version has many upgrades which I'll cover in full in this article and will let you know how they all come together to make this car better.

Recently we've seen a lot of releases in the 1/14 and 1/16 scale off road bashing RC car class; some of them good like the HBX 16886 Spectre and some of them not so good like the Bonsai 141600. Before these we've had the excellent WL Toys 144001 for which I have written over 30 upgrade articles and of course the HBX 16889 which won my budget basher of the year for 2020. This year we are seeing a higher spec version for both of these models - announced but still some months away is the 144010 (a brushless version of the 144001) and the subject of this review is the 16889 Pro - still brushless but with upgrades across the board.

I've written this review in such a way so that people new to the HBX 16889 will be able to see all of its features while people who are familiar with the 16889 will be able to see the upgrades. First we'll start with a close up look at the specs and components followed by a review of the car as it actually drives. At the end I'll sum up with which I think is better for different consumers.

Please note that the FlyHal FC600 pictured to the left is identical to the HBX 16889a pro reviewed here albeit with a different truggy-style body, rear spoiler and a slightly less agressive tread pattern. It also comes with 2 batteries instead of one is in generally cheaper. Check Coupons and Discounts page for the best deal currently

A close up look at the components and Specs

Size. This truck officially a 1/16 scale and I'd tend to agree, below is an image of it lined up against some of the other popular models in the 1/14 and 1/16 category:

From left to right: WL Toys 144001, HBX 16889a Pro, LC Racing EMB-MT, HBX 16886 Spectre, WL Toys 124018

Motor. The motor used in the HBX 16889a Pro is a brushless 2840 rated at 3800kv. This compares to the brushless 2435 3900kv in the regular 16889 or the 390 motor in the brushed 16889. 2840 is a very large motor for a car this small and light, so you can expect the power to match. Remember that brushless motors in cars of this price bracket are somewhat uncommon and are such an improvement. By comparison brushed motor counterparts are slow and inefficient. This means more battery life and more speed in the real world.

Motor Can is 28mm in diameter

40mm long

2840 sized motors have a larger 3.2mm diameter shaft than the 2435 and 390 motors so rather than a press-fit pinion as in the prior models, a proper grub screw M0.6 14t pinion has been used here.

3.2mm shaft is standard on motors with a 28mm diameter can so they have gone with a proper grub screw pinion

I confirmed that pitch is indeed M0.6 with a Surpass hobby M0.6 pinion. These 5-6 pinion gear packs are the cheapest way to buy pinions of this size

Interesting that the new, larger motor has a very similar kV to the previous model here, 3800kv, which is fairly conservative. I'll talk more about what this means when I get to the performance section but in short, less top speed, more battery life and powerful acceleration.

ESC/Receiver. Like all budget ready to run RC cars the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) is integrated with the receiver (available here as a replacement item). This helps keep the cost down but can often be detrimental because you are tied to the often lacklustre stock ESC unless you change the transmitter and receiver too. It's pleasing to see then that the brushless unit used here is actually very reliable. Although not stated I'd expect this to be rated at 30a. Regardless I've found this unit to run cool even without a fan with no noticeable cogging, which is due to the clever choice of gearing and kV chosen. I really like where the power switch is mounted too - attached to the side of the chassis away from harm's way but easy to access without removing the shell. It's the little extra details like this that make it really enjoyable to run.

ESC receiver unit is compact and is convenient for cable management with direct motor plugs as seen above

Power switch location (circled) is super handy yet is out the way from being accidently knocked when you are out bashing

Receiver range is good, noticeably better than the SG 1602 that this car was originally based on. As you can see in my original review of the SG 1602, I found the range to be disappointing so it's nice to see it has been improved here. I've been out to about 50m so far without any loss in signal, this is about as far as I wish to drive this car before I can't see it all that well.

Servo and steering. The servo is a 3 wire unit meaning if you wish to convert to discrete receiver and ESC further down the track, you can retain this servo (unlike cars that use a 5-wire servo). Better yet this servo is VERY quick, check it out below!! I can confirm this is definitely a 17g sized servo so it's good to know replacements are cheap and easy to find if needed, such as the excellent surpass hobby 17g metal gear digital servo

Servo is actually very fast

According to the specs the servo is a 17g unit but I will confirm. I have now confirmed - it definitely is a 17g unit.

The steering mechanism itself is all plastic but has minimal slop and bump steer so I am happy. Servo saver is integrated into the servo horn. Steering links are not adjustable tierods so you can't adjust toe in or toe out. I don't mind having no camber adjustment but though having an adjustable tie rod here may have been beneficial.

Battery and Charger. The battery included with this car is a 2s 1000mah lipo unit. This replaces the 2s 1300mah LiIon unit as supplied with the regular 16889. Although it sounds inferior by way of lower capacity, the different chemistry used in the Lipo pack with this car allows greater discharge meaning more power is available to the motor when needed - not so much top speed but acceleration is where it really shows. The pack itself is quite small, measuring about 55mm long and 30mm wide. If you are looking for a replacement battery you can go up to 40mm wide and 60mm long if you remove the foam spacer. More on that in the upgrade section below.

Stock 2s 1000mah battery uses a Deans T-plug connector which is the standard among cars this size and well suited to the power output on this car.

The charger included is a USB charger which I am not a fan of. However, as far as USB chargers go, this is one of the better ones with more feedback on the status of the battery as can be seen from the instructions to the right, click to enlarge.

Metal gears. Of all the manufacturers, HBX have the smoothest gears I've come across and this 16889a Pro is no different. This was all the more pleasing when I opened up the gearboxes to find these are both smooth and all metal and I really mean ALL metal - Pinion, spur, diff pinion, diff crown gear and even the diff internals. By contrast the regular brushed and brushless HBX 16889 both use all plastic gears (other than the pinion of course).

Not just metal gear but decent quality metal gears. Just look at the quality of the diff pinion and crown gears above

I'm usually not a fan of metal spur gears because when done incorrectly they cause more problems that they solve. For example in the WL Toys 104001 the stock metal spur is very heavy and this causes poor motor sensitivity and more susceptibility to drive line damage through increased inertia. Further more when the gears aren't cut well they are noisy and unpleasant. The HBX 16889a pro however does have a metal spur gear that is made properly. It is well cut and meshes beautifully with the pinion so is quiet plus it is very lightweight, just check out the design below. Unlike the HBX 16886 Spectre there is no slipper clutch (see review here) here however given the size and weight of the car, it's not really missed

Good design choice for a metal spur gear here. Rather than just using the same die as a plastic unit, the spur is thinner with more cutouts to account for the extra strength and weight of the metal over the plastic. Nice oversized bearing should last well.

Strengthened driveshafts. The HBX 16889a Pro uses oversized metal drive shafts front (CVD) and rear (dogbone) plus oversized metal cups. Furthermore they use an oversized wheel stubs shared with larger 1/10 scale cars that results in using an M4 nuts rather than the M3 units typical of this scale.

Proper heavy duty CVD driveshafts are used in the front

A 4mm wheel stub is used with a pin and 12mm hex drive.

Heavy duty dogbone driveshafts in the rear

Look how much metal is in the diff drive cups. These things should never wear out

This makes for a fairly rock solid driveline and is a major if not understated improvement over the regular 16889 models which used plastic driveshafts and hardware as seen to the right. These had an awful screw fastening system for the wheel which the Pro model as reviewed here full rectifies. Not only are the driveshafts big and beefy but check out how thick the diff drive cups are - I do not see these wearing down in ANY sort of hurry.

Suspension. Oil shocks front and rear are standard on the pro version which is an obvious upgrade from the regular 16889. This was the very first mod I did to my original 16889 here and a massive improvement so good choice by HBX. Dampening is good out of the box but perhaps a little too heavy given the car is so light, I may look to reduce oil thickness down to 10wt further down the track. Shocks have not leaked so far which is promising. Shock towers are plastic but have a few adjustment options to change the leverage of your shocks

Oil filled shocks front

Oil filled shocks rear

Nice the see double wishbone suspension front and rear. This lacks the camber adjustability of tierods but given this car is designed as a basher rather than a racer lends well to it prioritising strength over adjustability. Since the stock arm length is well set, adjustability isn't really missed here. Just a quick note that the front hub setup is quite cool in that it minimises the number of parts - rather than having a hub carrier and hub like LC racing and WL toys as I am used to, this has one integrated unit as below. Less pieces to break and more simple in the first place.

Here is the clever front hub setup - once single piece means it is simple and less parts to replace if it fails.

Although heavily upgrade, this LC racing setup is more typical with more moving parts that separate steering and camber.

Chassis. The chassis and all main parts are made of plastic which is fairly common for basher type cars where extreme chassis stiffness is not required (stiff chassis are needed for racing). This makes for a lighter and more durable car since there is less weight to stop and the small amount of flex in the chassis can soften impacts. So far I've not come across a better plastic for this application than what HBX use. As mentioned in my original long term update for the HBX 16889, the chassis design and material makes the car practically indestructible, praise that is echoed by other users of their cars. This is obviously not just for the main chassis but all of the suspension arms and other plastic components.

The plastic HBX uses for the chassis is perfectly suited for a bashing application

Suspension arms and other components are made from the same plastic.

Wheels and tyres. HBX makes uses a really hard compound rubber for their tyres and the 16889 and these are retained for the pro model here. Good for durability but not good for grip however like the other models they overcome this lack of grip by going big on size. This means tyres offer a reasonable level of grip on all surfaces and don't wear down quickly. Rims have a fairly large offset which helps give the car a fairly wide stance and overall dimensions are below:

80mm diameter helps give this car decent ground clearance and a good mini monster truck stance. It also makes these wheels a good option for other cars as I detailed here.

Nice big width helps make up on grip what was taken away by them being an overly hard compound.

Transmitter. This is the standard HBX unit you have no doubt seen before. I've double checked with the 16686 spectre I recently reviewed and they all bind to one another so easy enough to get a replacement if need be. This transmitter thankfully has throttle dual rate meaning you can easily limit top speed - very handy for the little ones if they ever get a chance to have a go. It is powered by 3 x AA batteries. No need to use expensive batteries here, even cheap batteries will last months so long as you remember to turn it off.

Body, Wheelie Bar, Lights. The Body (available here) is the sames shape that has always been used on the 16889 however I do quite like the new colours given they match the orange in the wheels. It comes with a decal sheet you can use to decorate further if you wish. It's a fairly strong body which is good because it often lands on its roof!

I really like the body colour and the way it matches the wheels

This car wheelies a lot and so the wheelie bar is a useful addition but bear in mind you will need to install yourself. No problem it's only 6 screws and they even include the screwdriver!

Included alongside the car and transmitter and battery are the wheelie bar, LED headlights, decals, spare body clips and USB charger.

The wheel bar is well made, adjustable and easy to install.

LED headlights are also here but need to be installed. They included everything needed for this installation including double sided tape and cable ties. They are decently bright as you can see below.

Easy to install especially with all the hardware included.

They are pretty bright

How does the car run?
To make this section easier to follow I'll split it into (performance including speed and efficiency), handling and then durability. Lastly I will talk briefly about upgrades. But first of all, footage!

Performance. Looking straight to the top speed, I've measured a 39km/h when running offroad using the SKYRC GSM020 GPS speed meter. This feels like a decent turn of pace for this little 1/16 scale truck. Funnily enough it's almost identical to the original HBX Brushless as mentioned by Perth West Oz RC in his video where he got 38.8km/h. At first glance is would seem strange that the top speed is the same given the new 2840 motor is over 50% bigger than the 2435. The truth lies in the KV, where the 2435 is rated at 3900kV and the 2840 at 3800kV. This conservative kV choice and the relatively short gearing limits the top speed. Because of this though, this little car hits top speed very fast and in most conditions. As I alluded to, I hit my top speed off road as well as on - the low kv and short gearing makes it super torque-ey and pickup is rapid. The other thing this means is that this car wheelies on demand at practically any speed and on most surfaces, the wheelie bar we installed is not just there for decoration!

The other benefit you gain from this efficient setup is massive run time. Even with the little 1000mah battery I got between 15 and 20 minutes from a full charge which is simply class leading in this size. And to think, if you could find even a 1500mah pack that would fit (looks like I've found one, check out the upgrade section) you could probably run for nearly half an hour. It something that we overlook but this efficiency is such a strong point of this car and was one of the underrated features of the original HBX 16889 brushless car as well. I should note that the final benefit to an efficient system like this is that it runs very cool. After 15 minutes of hard driving with the kids the motor, ESC and battery were barely warm.

Handling. This car is made to be a basher and that is clear in the handling. The weight tends to be rear biased as a result of the light chassis and having the two heaviest components (motor and battery) rear mounted. The means copious amounts of wheelies which are a lot of fun but on the downside it does tend to understeer a little on less grippy surfaces so you'll need to use your throttle to help balance this. Certainly it wouldn't be suited for racing but then again this car has never pretended to be a race car.

Although the oil filled shocks are really a nice addition here, I found the dampening from the factory a little too heavy because the car is just so light. In future I will probably drop to a 10 or 15wt shock oil but don't mind putting up with a bit of bounciness for now. On the flipside they are well set up for landing jumps and that to be fair is more where this car is targeted. Certainly bounciness over rough surfaces is nothing new to the small 1/16 and 1/14 scale cars which is why we tend to look at larger vehicles for very rough terrain.

Durability. This car is an absolute tank. Due to it's wide stance it is almost square in stature so it loves to roll which I have done a lot of! If you refer back to my long term follow up article from the SG1602 here, you'll see the only thing I damaged was the rear spoiler. The HBX 16889a Pro does not have a rear spoiler to break, With out trying to put to finer point on it, I have never come across a car that is more durable than this. While all my other cars end up on the bench for repairs and waiting for parts (including crawlers), this one just keeps going.

Upgradeability. This section will be short, I don't believe there is anything that needs upgrading on this car. It is strong, plenty fast for it's size which pushes the limits of it's handling and runs for a long time. If you really pushed yourself there would be scope to go to a slightly higher kV motor although this would put the stock ESC under more stress and I thing would push the car faster than the handling really allows for. I wouldn't mind being able to go up a tooth or two in the pinion gear but the motor mount is not adjustable and so would take a lot of work that I don't think is worth the effort. The only factor you may want to consider is a slightly larger battery but the size of the battery tray makes it tricky. I cannot confirm any battery that is an improvement over stock that fits in this space. Update! The WL Toys 144001 2s 1500mah lipo battery just fits but it is a bit heavier, see below. Update 2: It looks like there is variation in the size of the WL toys 144001 battery and some have reported the product that is shipping is larger than what fits in this car now

The WL TOys 144001 2s 1500mah battery just fits if you remove the foam padding in the car but is a bit heavier so will make the car wheelie even more

Conclusions and Recommendations

The HBX 16889a Pro is a simply fantastic small scale RC truck that falls squarely in the "basher" category. It improves in so many ways over the original 16889 brushless which itself was an excellent car. The improvements are mainly focussed on handling, durability and acceleration. The result is a little truck that is quick off the mark, handles like a true basher, runs for ages and is super strong. If you are looking for a car that you can get meaningful upgrades for then this is not the car for you, consider instead the WL Toys 144001 which has shortcomings but is an excellent base for upgrading. However, if you are looking for a well priced basher that performs really well at a fair price then I can happily recommend this car. Thanks for reading and please feel free to join my facebook group and discuss if you wish.

My HBX 16889a Pro was ordered from Banggood below. It took less than 2 weeks to get to NZ
HBX 16889A Pro 1/16 2.4G 4WD Brushless High Speed RC Car Vehicle Models Full Propotional

Update! Code BG799CDA will get reduce this price to $116 till the end of September 2021 (Update 27-8-21: more capacity added to this code)

Here are the upgrade parts that are included on the Pro model and not the original. These come to a total cost of $150 retail so you can see there is value in choosing the pro over the regular model. Obviously you need to take into account that if you upgrade a regular model you will end up with base model spares but this should help you understand the value of the pro model vs upgrading the standard model even for just a few of the key parts.

2PCS Upgraded Aluminum Capped Oil Filled Shock Absorber Damper for HBX 16889
$8 at time of writing x 2 sets = $16

HBX M16102 Upgraded Zinc Alloy Spur Gear for 16889
$7 at time of writing x 1 set = $7

HBX 16890 Metal Front Drive Shaft
$14 at time of writing x 1 set = $14

9pcs hbx m16103 upgraded metal differential gear for 16889
$14 at time of writing x 2 sets = $28

2PCS Metal Rear Dogbones Drive Shaft for HBX 16889
$9 at time of writing x 1 set = $9

HBX M16107 Upgraded Metal Rear Wheel Shafts + Pins + Lock Nut M4 for 16889
$10 at time of writing x 1 set = $10
Buy another set of CVDs rather than these and dogbones - cheaper and better

4PCS M16104 Upgraded Metal Diff. Outdrive Cups with Pins
$11 at time of writing x 1 set = $11

sssssssssHBX 16890 Upgraded Middle Drive Shaft
$16 at time of writing x 1 set = $16

The 2840 motor is not yet available closest is the 2838 in 3700kv.
$20 at time of writing x 1 set = $20

Not the right plug but closest I could find that fits in the right capacity. GNB 2s 1100mah
$18 at time of writing x 1 set = $18

M0.6 14t 3.175mm bore pinion
$2 at time of writing x 1 set = $2

Thanks for reading, if you found this article useful please feel free to like or share, the facebook links below directly link/like this article. I don't believe in asking for money by patreon nor by paypal but if you do wish to help me, the affiliated links in these articles help me buy the bits and services I need to produce this type of content. If you are looking for RC cars, quads or parts check out my coupons and discounts page which I keep updated with only the RC cars, parts and quads I like at a proper discount

171 Comments

Rcfreak

16/8/2021 02:52:56 am

Sounds brilliant it was the original that got me into RC. I will have to pick this up at some point.

QuadifyRC

17/8/2021 09:36:56 am

Yeah, I love this car. It's just so complete out of the box. I'm actually just about to add a list of all the upgrade parts it includes (and the value)

Cheong

21/5/2023 01:21:32 pm

Put a 3S on and it's a rocket.

RC guy

17/8/2021 04:28:58 pm

Hey mate, good review. There's a few grammatical errors though which make it a bit jarring to read. Otherwise good and thanks for the info

17/8/2021 04:41:39 pm

Thanks man! Yeah was up a bit late, will go back through and edit.

Sam

9/3/2023 04:42:04 am

Yeah eheh also me I found it as a good review but what a pity for the jarring part.

PS. the list for the upgrade parts I guess it is wrong, as there are some plastic parts and not in metal as the pro version and the battery hasn't a T / dean connector

Deti

17/8/2021 07:12:33 pm

Hi
How do you think this car runs in comparison with Latrax Teton?
I mean mostly reliability. Is it like relaxed mainenance or you have to repair here and there each time you bring it out?

18/8/2021 09:40:00 am

Hey man, stronger that the and faster than a Teton, I had one of those once upon a time. These things require very little maintenance. Check here for a long term review I did on the earlier, non pro version of this model https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/sg-1601-sg1602-brushless-rc-truck-long-term-use-update

29/8/2021 12:22:44 pm

Hey!
Thanks for the answer!
Long term review looks very convincing! I just thought about something else - do you know if we could expect long term supply of the spares for this one?
I do not know this brand HBX - are they on the market for some time, how long they supply replacements, or it’s kind of single-day existing entity?

Christiaan

18/8/2021 10:12:56 pm

Is this a new motor mount for the 2840 motor? Or does the 2840 motor fit in the same mount as the 2435 motor?

Could be interesting to upgrade the motor in my SG 1601, not sure whether the plastic gears would handle that...

Konstantinos

19/8/2021 02:21:16 am

Hi mate! I really enjoyed your review!
Can i ask you a question:
Sg1602 or this one?
I used to have 1/8 truggies ( tlr 8t and serpent cobra) but now i want something fast cheap and funny..
My only concern is their diffs as i had a 144001 and I keep blowing my oil filled diffs..( use to run doing mostly drifting)
Which small car should I buy?

20/8/2021 02:52:44 pm

Definitely this one, the upgraded parts make the small difference in price a really simple decision. This is on a differently level to the 144001 in terms of durability. They code I have at the moment in the article makes the price pretty decent too.

Chezza

19/8/2021 12:38:54 pm

Mate! Great review.

I ordered this Pro model from looking at pics, the strength of your review and on a whim. Ordered from Ali so hopefully I get it, ha.

Anyway, I have three brushed 16889s, it’s a long story. I have too many of them now but they are great trucks for my style of urban/street RC. The problems I have had may be solved entirely with this Pro model. I have stripped three drive pinions because I couldn’t fit the upgrade metal rear wheel shafts (cvds?) properly. The only reason I wanted to upgrade the shafts is because I hated the hub screws from the get-go. Sheared one off in the hub and took a month to get new shafts, thus the extra trucks (for speedy parts). The hub screws also cross thread super easy, metal on plastic is like chardonnay with lamb. That is my only real beef with the original, oh and the bodies are weak.

The upgrade shafts caused me a lot of hair loss. I really wanted to buy a different truck but the 16889 was nearly perfect. I purchased this Pro to go all metal on the cheap (you forgot to mention metal drive pinions in your upgrade list) and to see if the rear shafts can actually fit properly. Do they?

Thanks again mate, good stuff.

20/8/2021 02:55:20 pm

Thanks Chezza! Yeah Ali can be a bit of a gamble at times so I wish you good luck haha.

I think this new car will suit you perfectly, you can check the upgraded parts against your other cars to see if you want to upgrade them too.

20/8/2021 05:39:32 pm

Does this 2840 motor sit in the same motor mount as the 2435? It looks the same mount to me.

Could be a nice upgrade for the SG 1601, but perhaps to much for the plastic gears.

22/8/2021 12:38:19 am

I believe it's the same but to be honest I actually consider the 2435 to 2840 the least impactful upgrade. That 2435 suits that car really well and the 2840 doesn't add a whole lot more

23/8/2021 05:25:11 am

Yes, I think you are right. It would give it more initial punch, but with the 2435 it is already pulling wheelies. (especially with a Lipo instead of the stock lithium ion cells)
It might just over-stress the other (in my case plastic) components.

Mcfu

23/8/2021 09:36:20 am

Nice review, but the discount coupon is not working anymore. Says it can be only used 8 times.

mmcck

25/8/2021 05:06:28 am

Same problem

27/8/2021 01:02:09 pm

Good news, I have a new code with 8 more available at this price. Use link https://bit.ly/3iBsq2K and code BG799CDA which has just been updated for me.

27/8/2021 01:01:50 pm

Good news, I have a new code with only 8 more available at this price. Use link https://bit.ly/3iBsq2K and code BG799CDA which has just been updated for me.

Shayne RC NZ

29/8/2021 08:59:30 pm

Hey man nice review. TBH I am a bit over the smaller scale bashers, just sold a box of broken WLToys and parts on Trademe but have seen this on YouTube and always liked the 16889 and 16890. The pro version looks to be a decent upgrade but at $200 NZD I was still unsure BUT your code gave me a $28 discount! Ordered. I've found Banggood shipping to NZ 2-3 weeks so can't wait. Be a nice add to my Arrmas. Thanks for the indepth review bro.

Shahar

24/8/2021 02:27:28 am

Thanks for this post, it helped me decide to buy this car. It arrived today and I noticed there is plenty of room for a much larger battery above the original battery place. So you can put batteries with lengths of 70 and 80 mm. You'll need to arrange another way to hold it of course. Do you think it's a good idea?

26/8/2021 09:42:22 am

Hi Shahar, great! Yes you could fit a larger battery there but my thoughts are the run time is already long and sitting a battery higher up would make the car more likely to tumble. All I can say is give it a go, run time may mean more to your than handling but I personally like to keep batteries as low as possible.

Alexey

19/9/2021 10:03:03 pm

This might be a solution: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4958143

26/8/2021 04:13:26 pm

Looks like the code doesn’t work anymore, says it can only be used 8 times

27/8/2021 01:01:32 pm

Good new, I have a new code with only 8 more available at this price. Use link https://bit.ly/3iBsq2K and code BG799CDA which has just been updated for me.

Robert Albrecht

29/8/2021 09:20:16 pm

Hey, this is Robert from Germany again.
I am just thankful for your work.
I ordered the 16889 Brushless for 77€ in configuration with 2 Li-Ion 1500mah with your Code and the oil dampers for 12€. Around 90 Bucks with delivery from Czech in 4 days for a great if not the best Car for the Task and money which now finally goes to my 5 year old who is making good progress (with speedtrim).

This one is even more tempting and I ordered it because of the price. With your code it’s just 102€… this is mindblowing. 12€ for all the improvements on this basher which is already great in the stock form.

Your articles led me into reactivate RC as a hobby.
Thank you so much for all your work, and the hours of Fun me and my Son had and will have from now on over the years.
It will be the first car I recommend to beginners, friends and Family.

Keep up the good work!

Greetings from Germany / Grüße aus Deutschland

31/8/2021 12:20:00 am

Greetings back again from New Zealand, I'm glad you made your way to this article. Yes, if you look at the upgrades it make purchasing this a simple decision. I first starting using this car when my middle son was 5 as well. Perfect learner for him because it was super tough and the battery lasted a long time.

Steve

31/8/2021 03:39:27 am

Hi, thanks for all your reviews and upgrades. Is there something a little bigger like 1/14 or 1/12 scale that's on par with this out of the box rtr?

8/9/2021 12:43:01 pm

Haha I've been pushing the HBX reps to do this for the last few weeks. A bigger version of this would give the more expensive brands a good run for their money

Roger

6/9/2021 05:36:42 am

Thanks for the detailed review. This car looks very impressive for the price. I tried using your coupon code and unfortunately it actually increased the price, but got the car anyway without the code.

8/9/2021 12:43:51 pm

Hi Roger, there is a really good flash sale on at the moment for Banggood's 15th anniversary which is what the code actually makes it go the wrong way.

13/9/2021 06:50:05 pm

Oh ok, makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.

Zeurdo

11/9/2021 01:58:57 am

Hello, can I find the same wheels to get on my 104001.
Thank you

13/9/2021 05:11:23 pm

Hi Zeur. Yes and they fit well - review on them here https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wl-toys-144001-upgrade-wheels-best-for-bashing

19/9/2021 10:08:49 pm

Mine is very noisy out the box just because of metal gears, they knock on each other very hard, not sure I agree that main gears are meshed well. And I need to mention that greasing out of the box are very bad, I was forced to fill the diffs and regrease whole drive chain.

Checked shocks and they are actually quite bad. Without springs - depressing less than a half of the length, one of them not depressing at all. Filled with some garbage muddy oil with some particles (?!) inside...

And another big problem: almost impossible to find replacement batteries because of the size. This might be a solution https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4958143 if you have a 3D printer.

For the €100 including shipping this car is a bargain anyway, but still quite disappointed. Maybe your review was too positive and sets too much expectations...

22/9/2021 11:30:22 pm

I hear you on the battery bay. A shame it's small but the 1000mah gives a great run time. The 3d printed holder is a good idea but I'd be nervous to raise the COG.

I've had two of these cars and haven't had issue with the shocks, sounds like you got a bad run. Likewise with the gears - bar in large every HBX car I've used has quiet and efficient gears.

24/9/2021 05:32:00 am

Even if the runtime is great - you still need additional batteries if you want to have fun longer than 20 minutes. Recharging in the field in not always an option and even if it is - 1 hour gap between fun is not good at all, especially for kids. So in my opinion this is just bad product decision from manufacturer.

And yes, seems like I have a bad run. But unfortunately it means other users might also have it. Not sure why you reiterating again and again that your two samples are perfect: your statistical sample is not representative exactly as mine. You convey the messsage that HBX are ALWAYS perfect - but I have profs that this is not true.

Cory

1/10/2021 02:42:24 pm

I received my HBX 16689a pro in the mail today and have yet to run it because of the noise coming from what sounds like the differentials. I've included a link to a video with the sound I'm talking about. I doubt this is normal but I wanted to ask before trying to go back after Banggood haha. For what it's worth, when manually pushing my 124019, there is very little noise compared to this.

https://streamable.com/a2h2gh

2/10/2021 03:15:57 am

CORY, to me that sounds normal for a brushless motor. It does sound very different to a brushed motor like in the 124019. I think it's because of the more powerful magnets in the brushless motor that makes it sound and feel clunky. All my brushless cars sound like that when pushed, but when running it should sound a lot better.

28/9/2021 05:10:15 pm

Like I said, the feedback is pretty overwhelmingly positive on these, even in groups that tend to focus on the negative. If you have an axe to grind that is fine but you have already tried to make your point 3-4 times already. Also 20 minute runtime is extremely long in a car that performs like this. If you are wanting something longer I'd suggest looking at a crawler like this one which can run for about 40-60 minutes. https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wpl-c24-116-review-a-cheap-mini-crawler-to-get-you-hooked

Frank

1/10/2021 11:43:08 pm

Hi Alexey

Do you happen to have a video or screenshots showing how to grease the drivetrain/diffs? Can attack it 'blind' but would be much easier to follow a guide.

My diffs also grind more than I'd expect.

Konstadinos

19/9/2021 10:34:26 pm

Alexey, your are 60% right.
Diffs need earplugs, gears are metal, battery compartment is small.
But shocks are working great, i put a 3s battery and this thing can handle it just great, is durable and fun to drive. For 100 euro this thing is just unbeatable..had the 144001 and this thing is two times more enjoyable..

20/9/2021 10:17:40 am

Konstadinos, please, be precise: shocks working great FOR YOU. As I said, for me it is not true, one of the shocks not depressing at all, even 1 mm. Potential buyers should be aware that this might happen - and this is the reason why I share MY experience. I also have 144001 and it is just different type of enjoyment, not sure why you comparing them.

22/9/2021 11:28:53 pm

Alexy this is the first time I've heard of this issue with the shocks in these cars including the 3 I've owned. Reducing the shock oil is pretty straightforward anyway and something I'm all to familiar with for the 144001

James

20/9/2021 07:14:00 am

I think it's a good car but am underwhelmed by the transmitter. My car won't always go into reverse and it feels rather cheap in the hand. Already contemplating replacing the combined ESC with a 16BL30 and a DumboRC, but that's 2/3 the cost of the car again! Quadrify, is the DumboRC much nicer than the stock HBX transmitter?

22/9/2021 11:22:24 pm

DumboRC looks very cheap but it nice in the hand. It's currently on special at the moment. This and the 16bl30 would be very nice in this car.

Clifton Beard

22/9/2021 07:15:33 pm

Hi, great and useful site. I have a few of these HBX16889 following your recommendation, now including this Pro version.

Can I ask your opinion on differential lubrication? Are the diffs ok out of the box or is it worth opening them up and adding better or more grease for better performance or longevity on the plastic or metal gear versions.

I presume the lack of proper sealing means using silicone diff fluid is not possible. What lube would you recommend?

22/9/2021 11:25:24 pm

Mine was lubed well enough from the factory. I'd recommend keeping metal on metal gears greased (where sealed). Packing the diffs with grease gives the added benefit of a little more resistance to the diff and so a little more traction. You could use diff fluid but would need to go pretty high to hope it stays in place.

24/9/2021 05:35:03 am

For my sample it was terribly bad greasing out of the box, I'll recommend you to inspect and fix if required. I use simple lithium grease and it works well.

1/10/2021 11:21:49 pm

Does anyone have a guide or some screenshots showing how to disassemble the diffs to grease? New to this and don't want to mess it up - but out of the box both front and rear 'grind' more than I'd expect.

11/3/2023 05:19:42 am

Just arrived today and still didnt check the diffs but I already purchased a specific lithium grease for gears, I'm just scared if I should add or not cuz I don't want to reduce "too much" the friction to don't breaking it doing the opposite, but so far I'm new in this world I thought to check it and if isn't enough I'll just remove the original and add the new one (for sure better quality)

24/9/2021 03:30:15 pm

For those interested, this version is better value especially with 2 batteries. Looks like it's identical under the body apart from the motor specs being a little different but I doubt that'd make much difference in practice.

https://www.banggood.com/Flyhal-FC600-Two-Batteries-RTR-1-or-16-2_4G-4WD-60km-or-h-Brushless-Fast-RC-Drift-Cars-Vehicles-LED-Light-Full-Proportional-Models-Toys-p-1890171.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=531931&rmmds=

28/9/2021 05:11:19 pm

I agree. There's a coupon that brings it down even further at present: https://www.quadifyrc.com/coupons.html

26/9/2021 07:20:47 am

Hi Quadrify, thanks for the great article. I can't help but crave a bit more speed - do you think a 2845 4400kV would be a worthwhile upgrade for a bit more torque and top end? Not sure if the ESC in particular could handle it but maybe with a 16bl30 - what do you think, or would a better ESC and/or others be needed? The new WLtoys has a 2845 with a 60a ESC but I don't think it's a good one!

28/9/2021 05:13:34 pm

I personally don't think this truck is well setup to handle more speed but maybe I'm a crap driver! If you want to go faster I'd recommend a 2838 over a 2845 as the extra length will give you no real benefit, only more heat, less battery life. I'd go for a 2838 4500kv or even 5000kv but keep a very close eye on your ESC

28/9/2021 08:19:48 pm

Thanks Quadrify, I appreciate you taking the time to reply. My understanding was that the stock motor is a 2840 @ 3800 kV so I thought the 2845 would be better since it'd offer more torque at the same kV (800W power for 2845 versus 600W for 2838). Ideally, I'd like to be greedy and maintain/slightly increase the current torque for acceleration and wheelies but also increase the top end. Otherwise, wouldn't a shorter 2838 @ say 4500kV offer much lower torque in exchange for the top end speed? Please correct me if I have misunderstood!

2/10/2021 12:01:13 am

I think the stock motor is actually a 2838. 2840 motors aren't really a thing, I think they are just measuring it differently. Go for a 2845 by all mean I just think the light weight and limited traction won't allow you to get the power to the ground. A little known fact with brushless motors is that lower kv does not mean more torque. It's actually the opposite. High kv = less winds = stronger electromagnet = more torque.

28/9/2021 10:08:28 pm

Modular guy

11/10/2021 12:41:52 pm

Have a look at the Arrowmax 2s, 3200mah, 50c Lipo made for the Tamiya Dancing Rider.
It fits straight into the 16890, comes with a deans connector.
It is a bit expensive but this made all the difference with this car using the stock electrics.

19/10/2021 04:16:04 pm

I had a look, that is pretty cool. That should run for about an hour!!

Frank Doyle

15/10/2021 09:49:28 pm

Anyone managed to bind these cars to anything except the stock transmitter? Is there an OpenTX protocol for this receiver?

19/10/2021 04:17:37 pm

Good question. I have a 4in1 module for my quads, might have a play if I get the chance. Feels pretty old school controlling a car with stick though and incorporating a MPM in a wheel controller would be a pig of a job, even with PPM out.

Nic

12/2/2022 07:44:08 am

Was there ever an answer to this question? This can help me out right now! Ha ha

Petar

26/10/2021 01:58:59 pm

It's interesting that on Banggood, if you take a look at hbx 16890 for 71e, although in description it looks like 16889a, in customer reviews it looks like 16889a pro / fc600.

27/10/2021 12:31:46 pm

Just had a look and from the pictures in the reviews I saw I still recognise the friction shocks and plastic drive cups which is not the pro spec.

Francisco

4/11/2021 02:37:33 am

Hi,

Thanks a million for these reviews. You're responsible for the purchase of this HBX 16889A Pro and the HBX 901A from Banggood ; )

Just a note to let you know that I found replacement batteries (7.4V 1420mAh 25C T) for this one on Amazon (link below):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086X1SLNH/ref=twister_B08N6NFVNT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Best,

Francisco

6/11/2021 11:23:15 pm

My pleasure Francisco, sorry I'm a bit slow to these comments! That battery looks like it should work

5/1/2022 09:15:44 am

I can confirm that those 1420mAh 2s Hosim batteries fit perfectly in the HBX 16889 (without even having to remove the foam spacer) and have worked very well for me (so far).

Drew

11/11/2021 10:24:13 am

Hello,

Thanks for the very thorough review! I recently picked up two of the FC600 (rebadged pro version) for my young kids (and myself) for Christmas. I had RC's 20 years ago with NIMH, but the lipo system in these is new to me. From what I gather, running the battery too low is very harmful, does the stock ESC have a proper voltage cutoff, or should I add alarms to them? Also, are the included chargers adequate and safe (albeit probably slow)? As my wife and kids may be using these without me, I want to try to get them set up as simple to run as possible. Thanks!

16/11/2021 12:14:24 pm

NiMH? I was still using NiCD last time I raced haha. Yes Lipo batteries need a lot more care, you should not go below 3.5v per cell and definitely not lower than 3.0 cell or you do permanent damage to the cells. Included chargers are only just ok. A proper charger like this one will keep your batteries in good condition for longer and are much safer: https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/a-better-charger-for-your-rc-car-batteries

16/11/2021 02:00:00 pm

Thanks. They may have been NiCd, it's been a long time. All I remember is buying custom battery packs (about 2000 mAh for a 6 cell) with matched cells was the hot ticket. Thanks for the link on the charger, I plan to get something better and try to set it up as simply as possible for the family to use. Is the car safe to run until it stops, or do I need to add an alarm? I can't expect my kids to keep track of voltage.

Francisco Santos

12/11/2021 03:12:23 am

Hi,
Do you think I can fit two batteries at once with the Flyhal 1935 battery adapter? If so, what mods would be needed or do I you think that it is not worth the hassle?

https://www.banggood.com/Flyhal-9135-Pro-1-or-16-RC-Car-Spare-7_4V-500mAh-1_85Wh-Lipo-Battery-Strap-USB-Cable-Set-Vehicles-Model-Parts-p-1890937.html?cur_warehouse=ES&rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto

Thanks,

Francisco

16/11/2021 12:15:19 pm

Not worth the hassle. They have a long run time even on stock batteries. The break to change batteries or recharge gives it a chance to cool down

Matt

12/11/2021 11:11:55 pm

I also just got the FC600 delivered and have to say it's really fun driving it.
One thing I was wondering about is if the stock electronics are waterproof. I'm new to the whole RC topic and couldn't find any information on this.

16/11/2021 12:16:06 pm

Water resistant at best I'd say - I'd never trust these kind of electronics to be waterproof

Dirk

13/11/2021 02:01:58 am

Would you recommend upgrading the internals of a 16889 to a 16889A brushless setup?

16/11/2021 12:17:19 pm

Did you see my cost breakdown above? It's just not worth it. The parts are good but not for that kind of money. It's cheaper to buy a new car.

Ben

17/11/2021 06:37:15 am

Thank you for the comprehensive review! I just ordered a Flyhal FC600 based on you recommendation. $73 shipped from the US warehouse!

Can you recommend some tires that will work with this? I've read in a few reviews that larger tires work well on this due to the high torque motor, but I'm not sure how to verify they'll work with this truck.

Specifically, I'm looking for some good traction off-road tires (grass, dirt) and maybe a set of tires to tool around in snow this winter (paddles?). Any links or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks again!

29/11/2021 04:27:11 pm

Hi Ben, I strongly recommend the Remo P6973 as reviewed here, they are great on this car as well: https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wl-toys-144001-upgrade-wheels-best-for-bashing

18/11/2021 11:41:32 am

Do you think this battery would be too much - i.e. would 50C be too strong or the 3200mAh run for too long to cause damage to the esc or the motor?

https://www.arrowmax-rc.com/xcart/am-lipo-3200mah-7-4v-for-dancing-rider-soft-pack-with-deans-am-700994-.html

29/11/2021 04:28:26 pm

Not cheap but looks like a great option. This car runs very conservatively so I'd think you'd be fine. Should run for 40 minutes or more!

Jerry

21/11/2021 02:01:35 pm

I bought an FC600 based on this article. The rear driveline was very rough with lots of binding. In case any one else has this problem, I drilled the rear axle cups to be a few mm deeper using a 13/64" (5mm) drill bit as described in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhtYokH50a0. It worked really well and now the wheels spin smoothly.

29/11/2021 04:29:06 pm

Thanks for the feedback Jerry, I've not heard of this issue before but looks like a good fix.

Ash

27/11/2021 08:47:45 pm

Hi, looking to purchase the HBX 16889A pro, before use should i pack the diff with grease? What else needs to be greased? What grease and oil for the shocks would you recommend? I'm new to this hobby thanks!

27/11/2021 08:53:59 pm

Shocks need no fill at all..they are just fine.
Get some earplugs and use one quarter for each diff..the car is super bulletproof..can handle 3s but some times it cuts the current in wide open throttle..
Just go for it

29/11/2021 04:30:14 pm

You don't need to pack with grease but if you use something thick then it'll help with traction. Shocks should be fine as is but try around 30wt if you want more dampening.

2/12/2021 09:05:52 am

Has there been different iterations of the hbx 16889a pro? I'm sure i read somewhere the wiring had been upgraded more thicker or something along those lines, any ideas?

10/12/2021 11:18:09 am

It's quite possible, I know WL toys make little tweaks here and there but for the most part HBX seem to be more consistent. Thicker wires wouldn't make much difference on this one, it's a pretty solid package as is.

Geo

4/12/2021 01:32:33 pm

I’ve just got mine today. Same issue as others. but I think the noise is not the diff like some think it is. it’s the mesh between pinion and spur. If you flip the motor plate around it will give you a tighter mesh. you won’t hear the grinding. One side says 14t the other says 13. It makes it slightly stiffer to push the car than the original config.

10/12/2021 11:19:00 am

Interesting. Given it is metal on metal (and sealed) it may be worth treating with a little grease

Dunkelmann

19/12/2021 03:57:21 am

Thanks. I have ordered this with three batteries from AliExpress. In anticipation I got some Lucas Red 'n Tacky Lithium grease for the diff, gears and bearings.

I thought 30wt oil might do for the shocks. Do you recommend lighter or heavier? I am an RC Car virgin and plan to enjoy it off road. I am not into wheelies or jumps or flips despite seeing many videos.

Finally, it seems in general that Philips screws are disliked. Can one get hex screws to replace them, is it worth the bother and if so what sizes does one need?

I love your comprehensive reviewing style by the way.

Cheers from the UK.

Mitch Thompson

27/12/2021 06:55:22 am

Would you recommend this over the a979 series? Use case is "40yo quad flyer looking to try out cars"...

CHEZZA

2/1/2022 02:25:23 pm

Hey, I'm a little late to the party but I have had a Pro 16889A for a couple of months now. I agree this thing is rock solid, however I have issues with the gear noise.

Initially, I thought it was coming from the front so I reluctantly pulled it apart and found one of the internal diff gears had chipped a tooth. I replaced it and it was better (but this is a side issue). Alas, I am still not happy.

Compared to the brushed and regular brushless (plastic gear) models, this thing just sounds ugly, but still runs like a trooper.
I am interested in GEO's comment about flipping the motor plate, but I don't understand the mechanics behind it. Is that a good idea? Wouldn’t tighter be worse? Is there any way to make this guy quiet or am I just whinging and should shut up? Are all tiny metal-gear cars noisy? I don’t wanna take it apart anymore, I like driving, not fixing, I have soft hands.

Thanks mate, your reviews are easily the most comprehensive on the net. I have made many purchases based on your info. Keep up the good work.

Cheers

2/1/2022 09:13:16 pm

I have now received my 16889. Like Chezza, I find it noisy - and that is before I have run it at all. I dismantled the rear diff to see what was making the noise but mainly just to pack it with grease as others have advised as a pre-run set up.

The noise seems to be coming from the mesh of the spur and motor pinion. The teeth are fine and as far as I can tell so is the mesh. I was worried the mesh might be too loose. I an no expert though. I see that the advice out there is to let spur and pinion run dry, which it is - no grease, no oil.

I too am curious about the motor mounting - how is it adjustable and how will modifying it affect the mesh/noise.

I have seen others have this noise problem too.

Matjes

8/1/2022 10:46:14 am

I have the noise problem too. Any solutions?

11/1/2022 06:44:09 am

Hi Quadrify, any idea what the stock connector is for the lights, and if there's an adapter to JST? I've replaced my receiver with a 16bl30 but would like to hook up the lights to a spare channel on the receiver! Cheers

Griet Titulaar

12/1/2022 10:12:37 am

Would you rather put oil in the diffs (will it even hold?) or rather grease? I have to replace the differential cups because they are worn out and would like to do some basic maintenance on them.

Thanks!

auxiliary

18/1/2022 04:44:07 pm

Does anyone know the charge rate of the 1000mah battery that comes with the FC600/16889a pro? I know I can charge at 1C, but had hoped for just a bit more but there's nothing listed on the battery and I don't have the manual. I noticed the USB charger that it came with says up to 1.3a but wondered if anyone had done more safely or found information online.

Thanks in advance.

19/1/2022 01:53:28 am

I charge (and discharge) the batteries at 4 amps / 40c with an ISDT 608C. Works really well. The battery charges within 20 minutes. Discharging takes a bit longer.

23/1/2022 10:18:23 am

Thanks very much, you haven't had any problems I take it? No swelling, overheating issues with the battery? That's a lot higher rate than even I thought I'd get so that's nice information.

23/1/2022 10:20:50 am

Forgot to add, I'm using a really old charger from when I bought my Revo VXL but it's been solid the entire time. It's a Thunder AC6.

23/1/2022 10:30:04 am

Well, I did notice uneven discharging whe I use the batteries in the car. Just now one cell was at 2.9v while the second one was 3.5v. That could shorten the life a fair bit. I've read somewhere that you shouldn't charge above 1.5a..

23/1/2022 10:40:36 am

Appreciate it. Yea, I might stick to 1.5a since that's still slightly higher than the USB charger. I guess I'll see how the cells charge/discharge a few cycles and go from there.

Iain Langley

21/1/2022 10:13:24 am

Hi Quadifyrc,

This is a fantastic in-depth review. It's really made me want to get a few of these for me and my son to bash around the local park.

Can you tell me if this is the same car?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uJfP59

Thanks
Iain

21/1/2022 11:20:47 am

Iain, that looks like the same car - the 16889A Pro that I have. It is a good price too. I bought mine from AliExpress and love it. It is my first RC car.

21/1/2022 07:29:56 pm

Do you know if I'll have to pay import duty on it, when it comes into the UK?

Thanks
Iain

21/1/2022 09:05:01 pm

Iain, I am in the UK and I was surprised to see that when I actually bought the car on AliExpress, they added on VAT. But I had no import charges. Make sure you go the point just before committing to see if VAT gets added.

Iain Hi DUNKELMANN

21/1/2022 10:23:41 pm

Hi DUNKELMANN,

Thanks for the info. I've given that a go. If I add 1 car to the cart it adds the tax, if I add 2 then it doesn't show any tax, but the shipping costs goes up by about £12, which is less than the tax would be. Do you think that means they'll charge the tax upon entry into the UK?
Thanks
Iain

22/1/2022 12:15:59 am

Iain, I think the reason you are not charged VAT is because the total sum is above a certain threshold (£135? IIRC) under which foreign firms will take off VAT by agreement with the UK.

So I would guess you will be charged in the UK. You might consider buying it twice for simplicity.

Valentin Stoinov

29/1/2022 07:31:18 pm

After having it for a while and serviced it a bit and after the initial problems i had with mine, i have to share few things that may be helpfull to other owners:

1. Oil Shocks:
1.1 I suggest to check the oil in each shock and the rebound some have none some have less some have more, also if you find the springs kind-a soft, i couldn`t find any real fix except preload or change the springs to harder one.
1.2 Check the bottom of the shock cap, i noticed some quality control lacking in that departament, some shock caps have left excessive bits of plastic left and that leaves the cap at angle, i guess that is left from the matrix or the mold it self.The fix is easy use exact knife or fine sand paper to even them dont overdo it!
1.3 They definetly get dirty after few packs and the oil gets muddy which is normal i guess, but a thing to keep eye on when servicing, the o-rings have some left over silicon around them so not a top quality there.

2. Bearings: .
After 6 packs i noticed a little piece of the front left diff bearing has damage a small piece has teared off from the outer housing of the bearing.On the right side there is some noise, while i have may missed taking good look at the the left when i frst serviced it and it may had come from the factory this way i dont know i really cant figure out how this happened.Well the fix is obvious just replace them.

3. Drive cups:
1st thing to do remove the body push the model down and move it by hand inspect for binding.You may find resisting and binding when the suspension is not leveled, the fix for that is to drill the outer wheel cups 1mm less or more, its different for each side the problem comes from the rear dog bones mostly being to long or the cups themselfs not being drilled enought from the factory (5-5.5 drill bit or what you find working in your case CARE NOT TO GO DEEP when drilling take your time an dbe carefull).
4. Definitely get a motor heat sink especially if you run it on grass the motor gets hot!
5. Inspect the diffs for grease (i had problem with mine which was more towards the QOL of things since it was a bit more complicated) I regreased it with lucas white lithium (that is what i had laying around, marine grease will works also the diffs cant hold OIL!)

6. Inspect the drive train for bends, some of us had problems with bend central drive shaft.

7.Steering linkage, Servo saver:
Now this is probably be the most anoying thing that you gonna find on this model, there is a lot of play in the linkage and you probably gonna notice that you have to trim it often, the biggest part of the problem is coming from the servo saver the screw comes loose after a while leading to the servo saver not always going back in neutral position after turning, tight it more but the problem will partially remain even when its fully tightened. I found its a bit better not using the servo saver at all, but this you can do at your own risk since you risk damaging the servo.
I`m on the lookout for adjustable tire rods or turn buckles in order to find a fix for the play in the steering links, if i find something that does the job and is working well i will let you know.

3/2/2022 07:46:42 am

I can underline all the statements you made here. Could you perhaps link a heatsink that would actually fit? I have yet to find one that is smaller than the one for a 2838 motor...

Andreas Scharl

26/4/2022 02:53:24 am

Can you point me to a tutorial on how to service the shocks?
The rear ones are way less damped and thus race through the travel easily after a couple hours driving. Preloading the springs helps a little.
What did you use for shock oil?

4/5/2022 05:33:47 pm

Check sol rc YouTube channel he have great service video for the 16889 I use 400 cat at the moment, make sure to check all o rings.

7/2/2022 01:30:11 am

I quite like the look of these rims for the 16889.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uJwhAA

Can anyone suggest some tires that will fit them, and that will suit the 16889 for general off-road use.

Cheers

TIA
Langers

9/2/2022 06:51:26 am

Bump...

Anyone got any ideas?

Thank you
Langers

8/2/2022 11:22:49 pm

Hi!

Which of these metal parts do you recommend for this car?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003592126807.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5e9b17dbbwEOJt&algo_pvid=82fec4d6-fd07-4e84-b176-17796da1749e&algo_exp_id=82fec4d6-fd07-4e84-b176-17796da1749e-33&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000026412740015%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B8.96%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BEUR%3Bsearch-mainSearch

I don't want to go full on metal, but I also want to make the car as sturdy as possible.

Thanks!

Francisco

8/2/2022 11:26:23 pm

I wouldn't bother with these aluminium parts. I have a complete blue set which does look the part but isn't as durable as you might think. Plus, the flex of the RC goes out the window making it prone to break on other parts.

9/2/2022 05:56:37 am

Thanks!

Not even the wheel hub caps? I see that hbx now has their set on sale, but you can buy the parts separately, so if any increase the durability, I'll go for it. But if plastic works bettter and lasts longer, I'll leave it as is.

http://www.haiboxingtoys.com/hbx-16889-16889a-parts/4831-hbx-16889-upgrade-kit-metal-parts.html

Francisco Silva Santos

9/2/2022 06:03:33 am

I was thinking of only using the rear upper links, steering links and servo link, with front steering cup and the rear hubs (links below), leaving the arms in the original plastic.

http://www.haiboxingtoys.com/hbx-16889-16889a-parts/4803-hbx-16889-upgrade-parts-metal-rear-upper-linkssteering-linksservo-link-red.html

http://www.haiboxingtoys.com/hbx-16889-16889a-parts/4829-haiboxing-16889-upgrade-parts-metal-steering-cup-m16013-metal-version-blue.html

http://www.haiboxingtoys.com/hbx-16889-16889a-parts/4783-hbx-16889-16889a-upgrade-parts-metal-rear-hubs-m16014-metal-version-red.html

9/2/2022 06:43:53 am

If you really want to, go for it! I found the items too stiff and fragile at the same time if that makes any sense. For example the screws vibrated loose eventhough I used loc-tite.
Admitting, I did not use the HBX parts but some knock offs. Maybe these are better.

Ryan

1/3/2022 01:09:59 pm

Greetings from the United States. There is a wealth of knowledge on these pages! I am a 45 year old father of a 7 year old girl, and we are getting into RC cars this year. Back in 2020, I got into toy grade Syma helicopters and quadcopters for indoor use during the Covid-19 quarantine. Regarding RC Cars, my daughter has a Crawler and I have a 16889a Pro. I see that you recommend Remo P6973 tires. Can these be installed without modification? Also, in regard to new, unused batteries, what would you say is the reasonable shelf life? In other words, can one go a year or so before you put a first charge and start using a Li-Po battery, or is it best to start using them straight away? Thanks for your body of work here.

4/3/2022 10:34:32 am

Hi, Yes, they can be fitted without modification and IMO they're the best all-purpose tires for this basher.

3/5/2022 04:14:33 pm

Hi Ryan, Hello from NZ and sorry for the very late reply. Great to get into it with your little girl, so much fun together. Remo tyres have much better grip wet and dry and bolt on with no mods. Should last a year fine but keep at storage voltage (3.7-3.8v per cell)

Manuel

4/3/2022 08:31:26 am

Hi, how fast is this Car, when you adjust the speed at the Remote Control to the lowest setting? Like to know if it would be ok for an absolut beginner or young child.

4/3/2022 10:35:40 am

Yes, lowest speed setting is perfect for beginners and young kids.

13/3/2022 08:21:18 am

Hello all,

Our cars have been running great for some time now, but are finally starting to take on some damage. I went to use one today and the servo will barely turn the wheels. It is responsive, but weak. I can move the wheels manually through a full range of motion, so it doesn't seem bound up. Is it time for a new servo, or look for a problem somewhere else? Any recommendations for an upgrade? Thanks!

20/3/2022 03:41:36 am

OK, since I have 2 of these awesome little bashers, I plugged the servo of the bad one into the ESC of the good one and it steers fine. Must be an ESC issue with the first one then? The throttle still works though, anything else to check before I order a replacement ESC? Also, the steering is pretty choppy and hangs up on one side or the other occasionally. It doesn't seem to have much restriction in the system, but does over-center a little. Would a stronger servo fix this?

4/5/2022 05:54:06 pm

The stock servo is a bit weak, the servo saver is getting lose after driving there is slop from the linkage and ur front right will have bigger slop then the left.You have few options for the stock situation just tight the servo saver or don't use it at all on your own risk.There are cheap and no so cheap alternatives for the servo the surpass hobby 17g metal geared is cheap especially on sale was like 4-5 euro I have one and was running with that servo until I decided I want something better that can give me full steering on rough terrain and medium grass so I got a savox but it's not cheap one at all, I personally removed the servo saver to eliminate as much slop as I can.

Maxim

18/5/2022 07:55:35 pm

Hey there! I would like to add something rather crucial in my opinion. This car is just the perfect size to run with a 2s 18650 battery! You tested it with the 1500mAh lipo, but a 35A 2600mAh 18650er battery made of VTC5a cells weighs exactly as much, delivers more torque than the original lipo, and runs for well over an hour. It just barely fits into the battery holder, if you remove the soft foam bumper - I wish I could upload a picture. Battery stays nice and cool, even when ESC and motor are hot. I love it. Perfect gear for FPV also

18/5/2022 08:28:36 pm

Sounds great! Got a link to the battery you used? Maybe a link to the picture (host on some free site)? Does it come with a Deans-connector (T-Plug) or did you have to solder it on?

18/5/2022 08:53:14 pm

I found this 3s one: https://www.banggood.com/de/URUAV-VTC6-18650-3S-11_1V-3000mAh-15-or-30C-3S1P-Long-Range-LR-Li-ion-LionPack-Battery-XT60-Plug-for-RC-Racing-Drone-p-1790228.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search

2s on aliexpress (good price!): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001270780841.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.231e183dgAEKZH&algo_pvid=62a6d176-7178-48d7-8baa-8f1ea68069ac&algo_exp_id=62a6d176-7178-48d7-8baa-8f1ea68069ac-15&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000027267113207%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%21%2115.42%21%21%21%21%21%400b0a555d16528636638051270e3063%2112000027267113207%21sea

If a Li-Ion 18650 cell is really better than a Lipo though, I'll leave that answer to the experts.

20/5/2022 08:59:19 am

I built mine by my own. With a little practice you don't need a spot welder but can solder them without heat damage. Just needs an 80W soldering iron and you apply it for not more than 1 second, using solder flux. Let it cool before continuing.

I bought them fron nkon.nl, a trustful source for Germany:
https://www.nkon.nl/de/rechargeable/li-ion/18650-size/sony-us18650vtc5a-flat-top.html
There are a lot of fake copies in the market, I don't recommend buying them... People in the comments are complaining about the capacity, the stickers tell overrated powers, which aren't currently realistic. Buying the originals is still cheaper than LiPos. If you are from Germany, I can even recommend somebody on the forum, who can spot-weld them for little money.

Some people even use the VTCs for drones. I have measured the VTC5a to have an inner resistance of just 5mOhm. The original HBX 1300mAh LiIon has 21-25mOhm and the original Lipo has 25.5mOhm.
The VTC6 30A has slightly less continuous current but therefore more capacity. For this application, it would absolutely do the job as well, since I highly doubt that this HBX reaches 30A out of burst. I used these for my bicycle battery.

I wasn't precise with the weight though. I've measured now and it is 103g on my 2s. The original Li-Ion weighs 70g, the original LiPo 50g. However, the weight difference between the brushless 16889 (676g without battery) and the brushless 16889a (806g without battery) is already 130g, so I consider this battery absolutely fine and I don't feel an impact on handling.

Whether or not Li-Ions are superior, I also leave it to the experts. LiIon has better energy density and longevity, but lower spefific current. So wherever the power they supply is enough / the additional weight is ok, I use them, otherwise LiPos.

PS if you really want to see my poor pic, I've uploaded one in the review I've done on banggood, mentioning that I am using 18650s:
https://de.banggood.com/HBX-16889A-Pro-1-or-16-2_4G-4WD-Brushless-High-Speed-RC-Car-Vehicle-Models-Full-Propotional-p-1876495.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

Grüße

George

24/12/2022 11:09:48 pm

Hey man. I'am new to RC. Bought same battery made of VTC5a cells. But still waiting for car and charger. ATM have some questions. How does it performs comparing to factory LiPo? Burst and max speed? i am thinking about c-rate.... Also have you tested it with aftermarket LiPos to compare? I'am just learning don't want to be just user))) Thanks

25/12/2022 03:20:39 am

As long as they are original, they will perform well. With this car, definitely same burst as the original LiPo. I have measured their inner resistance to be 5x lower than the original LiPo, so the voltage sag should be lower, resulting in higher continuous power output and top speed. The c-rate - VTC5A allows for up to 6A charging, 3A is normal charge. Even at normal charge, they charge about as fast as the car discharges them, so you can go forever.
I haven't tested it with aftermarket LiPos, and I don't see much point to it. These motors don't require really high power output, you won't notice much as long as you go for the same voltage. If you want more power, you have to go for 3s, however I am not sure if the HBX ESC handles it well.

18/5/2022 08:18:12 pm

Think it's worth pointing out that the 18859a is almost exactly the same but 1/18th instead of 1/16th - in case anyone prefers something even smaller scale.

28/5/2022 09:23:21 pm

SImilarly specced but otherwise quite a different car thought right? I really need to get on to review.

Ollie

24/5/2022 09:13:48 pm

Great review! Think you convinced me to go for this one as my first basher. Do you have any current discount codes? Can't seem to find any. Thanks!

28/5/2022 09:24:52 pm

Cheers Ollie. The Flyhal FC600 is the same car and is currently on flash sale: https://bit.ly/3t4olcl

24/5/2022 10:54:54 pm

Hi,

The Flyhal FC 600 is almost identical (same quality parts) and can be bought on Banggood for roughly a hundred bucks.

https://www.banggood.com/EACHINE-Flyhal-FC600-Two-Batteries-RTR-1-or-16-2_4G-4WD-45km-or-h-Brushless-Fast-RC-Cars-Trucks-Vehicles-with-Oil-Filled-Shock-Absorber-p-1890171.html?cur_warehouse=PL&ID=531931&rmmds=search

Best,

Francisco

28/5/2022 09:25:16 pm

Aha you bet me to it!!

Cheapies beginner

29/5/2022 08:35:33 pm

Hey, saw your cheapies post. I'd looking for the better charger, SkyRC - Dual channel - which variant? The T100, T100 with with T, T100 with XT30, T100 with TRX or T100 5 in 1?

As you can no doubt tell, total noob!

Cheers!

10/6/2022 05:44:53 am

Has anyone had problems with the front CVD shafts shearing? I thought I stripped the diff, but it turned out one of the front CVD shafts had sheared and the driveshaft was spinning freely in the hub.

I have ordered a replacement, but I'm still not sure why it broke.

13/6/2022 10:01:17 pm

Same thing happened here, on both sides. I just took the CVD out, wound of the small coil in the hub part (where the wheels attach) and replaced the broken pin with a nail of the right diameter, which I cut and filed to the correct lenght. Once the new pin (nail) is in there slowly wind the coil back one, making sure it sits snug in the grove and prevents the pin from falling out again.

Easy 5-10 minute fix at next to no cost.

13/6/2022 09:57:26 am

Mine is starting to play up, for some reason it's struggling for traction, the wheels are digging into the grass, the car doesn't move as good as it used to. Any ideas what could be the problem?

13/6/2022 10:03:26 pm

Might be worn tires (less traction). maybe just more slippy conditions like wet grass, stock tires provide like to traction when it's wet on the FC600.
Maybe try to make a little video and post it on the fb group to get more help fast. Make note of any strange noises or parts not moving when they should so we can find the issue.

Joel

13/10/2022 03:49:07 am

Hey Quad, long time reader, love your site!

I have two of the Flyhal fc600 and this part below keeps failing me, I've bought like 5 sets now between mine and my son's car. Could there be something contributing to that that I need to fix? I'm a beginner but really enjoying the hobby thanks to your awesome reviews!

2PCS HBX M16105 Upgraded Metal Front CVD Drive Shaft + Pins+Lock Nut M4 for 16889 1/16 RC Car Vehicles Parts

I just bought some Remo tyres for it too as I have them on my 144001 and they worked great on this truggy too.

Thanks!

Joel

Andreas

13/10/2022 07:33:08 pm

Hey Joel,
my sons have the FC600 too. this part failed twice on my elder sons car as well. The pin that attaches the rod to the part that sits in the bearings and holds the wheel somehow got lost.
My solution: gently wind off the spring, that holds the pin. find a steel nail, that fits in diameter. Clip it to approximate length and file away until it fits perfect. install the new pin and then gently wind on the spring again that holds the pin and it's as good as new.
So I hope you didn't throw away the "broken" parts, cause they can easily be repaired.

Joe

31/10/2022 04:48:10 pm

I got a pair of FC600 for me and my 5yo son partially based on this excellent review. After some very rough driving, we managed to strip out the threading in the motor mount. There is another set of mounts offset 90 degrees but it doesn't fit with the provided screws or with the plastic piece that aligns the motor into the right position with the gears. Is this repairable, or do I need to replace the motor? If I replace the motor, what do you recommend?

Also, we lost a couple screws -- any recommendations on where to source those? I found some replacements that almost fit locally, but they're not quite the same.

31/10/2022 09:20:42 pm

You could repair the threads with helicoils or similar thread repair kits. Luckily these screws are metric. Make sure though to take out the rotor first and clean the stator from the metal spans after repairing.

The screw sets you can find on e.g. the official Haiboxing site http://www.haiboxingtoys.com/, since the HBX 16889 is identical.

Interesting though, I have 3 HBX and none of these issues. My friend has a Flyhal and tends to lose screws as well. Since they share the same parts, maybe there is a different assembly process or QA.

26/12/2022 06:40:35 am

It'll be my first RC. I don't have any good offline shop, so i'am using Banggood or Aliexpress...as result the shipment time is a bit long. Can someone give me an advise:
What spare parts do i need to have in stock, maybe screw set box etc? Thanks

Adam

15/1/2023 02:33:52 pm

Does anyone know what the part on banggood is for the bearings that are part of the diff assembly? I have the FC600 and the book shows the parts for the non pro model with the plastic diff parts so is no help

Justin

3/4/2023 03:43:11 am

I replaced my fc600 with the surpass metal gear servo you listed and the steering is feeble.
What I mean is is it does not turn nearly enough.
I have the arm sitting perfectly central in neutral position but servo does not seem to turn far enough.
My endpoints are turned to max on dumborc i replaced the radio gear with.
I am sad :(

Stefan

7/4/2023 02:03:31 am

Great review. I received mine a few weeks ago.

Unfortunately, it drived faster in reverse than in forward mode. I tried to switch two cables at the motor and flip the throttle reverse switch. However, this did not help. The car always drived faster when the trigger at the remote was pushed to the front. Is this a known issue?

I solved it by switching the wires of the potentiometer in the remote control. Not very nice, but it worked...

But now, I still think it is not as fast as it should be. I would estimate max 20 km/h instead of the 39 km/h you have measured and wheelies are impossible. What could be the reason therefore? Throttle poti is at max.

7/4/2023 03:58:13 am

Hey Stefan,
this is indeed interesting. Which Poti you soldered the other way around? I guess the throttle trigger, not the throttle D/R?
Yes, this is a known issue, especially if you turn down the power.
As for the power loss, I can't confirm... I have 3 16889a pro, all of them do ~40km/h. It could have many reasons: did you try if the drive train rotates nice and freely? Did you ever overheat the motor? Is the battery damaged and the voltage sags severely under load? This you could measure with a multimeter, while holding the car in hand and give the wheels some load by rubbing on the ground.
Grüße

7/4/2023 05:34:53 am

Hi Maxim,
thanks for the quick response.
To your questions:
Poti: Yes, I changed the wires from the throttle trigger. Is there no other solution like reprogramming ESC or Remote?
Drive train: It runs very smoothly. The car starts rolling by itself even at low steepness of the underground.
Motor: No overheating here. It stayed always cool. No wonder at that low speed. 😉
Battery: Seems to be good as well. 7.7V free running, ca. 7.4V under load.
I will try to measure the speed with my GPS watch.
Grüsse

15/4/2023 05:52:42 pm

Hey Stefan,
could you verify the speed issue?
There is one thing I have noticed while bashing yesterday. While the backwards speed is higher at reduced power, it is lower than forward at full power. I explicitly tested this on even grass and could definitely tell by the motor rpm. Could this be the reason you have a slower forward now?
Grüße

AussieRC

11/4/2023 08:10:55 pm

I really like all these articles I have used them so many times for my rc cars with lots of tips and tricks and appreciated your experienced information about this fun hobby.

This is an awesome car for the price and build quality. It does take a very heavy bashing. Especially at skateparks. However I would appreciate some advice please. I have broken my second HBX 16889A Pro in the same place. There is a cover that goes over the motor gear and the gear on the main drive shaft. This cover has a screw that goes through the plastic and into the motor to hold it tightly into place. I have broken these two cars in exactly the same spot and would appreciate some advice on how to fix them and to prevent it from happening again please. On both occasions the screw has snapped so one half is in the plastic over and the other half is still in the motor.

Yes it's a mess but I would like to fix it. Please help. Cheers.

11/4/2023 09:26:35 pm

Hey AussieRC, this only happens, if your motor screws get loose and you don't notice. Make sure you tighten them properly and try using some loctite to prevent unscrewing.

Best Maxim

12/4/2023 12:14:01 pm

Thanks mate would loctite prevent the screw from snapping in the same spot on each car?

The screw has snapped. Half in the motor and the other half of the screw is in the plastic.

I would like to fix both theses cars. Is there a way to maybe take out the embedded snapped screws and put in a bigger screw or metal plate. Maybe drill a new hole in the motor that's bigger? Or any other suggestions to make it stronger.

I don't really want to buy a 3rd HBX 16889a Pro. I love these cars for the price but this is getting expensive. Cheers.

12/4/2023 07:07:18 pm

Loctite prevents loosening, thus they don't snap.
The screws in the motor should have metric threads, it is fairly easy to find some stainless. They are tougher. As for the screw bits stuck in there, you have to be creative to get them out... There are common ways on Google. Also, the motor can be disassembled reversibly.

AUSSIERC

15/4/2023 04:10:51 pm

Hey MAXIM,
After taking the motor out and wearing reading glasses with a decent light source the screws were not snapped. It looked like it initially. My bad apologies.

I used the same holes in the motor to reattach the motor mount and threadlocker on the original screws.

Your solution worked so a big thank you and I hope this is helpful for others as well with the HBX 16889a Pro. This truggy is so well built for the priceand handle allot of bashing. I've had this get about 8 foot air off a vert ramp and landing on concrete with the front bumper and it still goes. Not recommended too many times otherwise people end up reading this post.Cheers mate.

15/4/2023 04:46:05 pm

Hello, Broken CVD help please for HBX 16889a Pro.

Ok so after successfully fixing the motor mount that MAXIM suggested I have gone and broken a CVD(at skate park again). I'll try to explain but excuse me if I am using the incorrect terminology.

At the front of the car the CVD has the following parts. A dogbone with a ball end that has a hole in it. There is a pin that goes through this and somehow it keeps the dogbone securely mounted into the metal cup with the shaft that goes through the bearings in the wheel hub. I have lost that pin on many occasions with these cars and would like to know is there a solution to reattach something similar until a replacement CVD arrives 4 weeks late? It is quite annoying that such a small priceless little pin puts me on hold for using my car for weeks on end.

The user manual for the HBX 16889a Pro doesn't show how the CVD is assembled. However the user manual for the 144001 does show how it's CVD is assembled but it doesn't list the pin in the parts list.(I thought I could use this as a reference).
I have also searched allot and cannot find any information how how they are constructed and how to fix this small part.
Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks, AUSSIERC. Cheers.

15/4/2023 05:48:30 pm

Hey AussieRC,
glad your motor is attached again :)
So you're talking that you have lost the pin at the ball end of the CVD? It is held in place by a little spring coiled over both ends. You seem to have lost that too. Check the other side - if there is no spring at all then you have a weird kind of CVDs... All of mine have a spring coiled around, the spring is covered by the plastic wheel hub and everything looks impossible to lose. The ones you can buy at Aliexpress usually have the spring too.
https://m.de.aliexpress.com/i/1005004418196366.html?gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite
Also have a look in the upper comments by searching for "CVD", I remember someone had a similar issue.
Best,
Maxim

15/4/2023 08:15:18 pm

Hi MAXIM,
Yes the motor fix you suggested has done the job perfect. I just got back from the skate park and gave it a big bashing just on 2 wheel drive running at the rear so no forward flips but backflips were fun :)

"So you're talking that you have lost the pin at the ball end of the CVD? "Yes that is correct.

I did a search on this page for CVD and understand you were talking about the spring on the outside cup where the dogbone ball end slots inside. I Couldn't easily see that it as a spring, I thought it was factory design markings :)

This looks difficult. I just have to try to carefully remove the spring and then see what I can use as a replacement pin.

I'll give it a try and post my results back on here. Cheers.

15/4/2023 09:45:54 pm

Hi again,

I have fixed the CVD. This has made my day :)

I used a razor blade to carefully unwind the spring on the outer metal cup the dogbone slots into. I unwinded the spring slowly in the direction away from the ball end of the dogbone was much easier.

Then I inserted a pin(I used the pin that goes into the plastic wheel hex on the 144001) through the metal cup and ball end of the dogbone where the pin goes through and carefully wound the spring back into place. Put it all back together and I now have 4WD again. Skate park here I come again :)

A big thank you to MAXIM and ANDREAS SCHARL for this very helpful and easy fix which saved me ordering parts from overseas and waiting for several weeks for the items to be delivered. Awesome advice. Thank you so much guys :)

16/4/2023 06:22:52 pm

Ok, so I just got back from the skatepark and I have dislodged the motor again on my HBX 16889a Pro after applying thread locker to the motor screws :)

I think I will try some better quality screws that are longer and use the threadlocker again. There is not much thread on the stock screws once they go through the plastic motor mount to grab onto int the screw hole on the motor. Should I try that and then allot of the medium thread locker on the longer screws? Or should I go for a higher strength thread locker? The only issue with the higher strength thread locker is I believe I have to heat up the screws if I ever want to unmount the motor and this could risk melting the plastic motor mount if I used a blow torch or soldering iron?

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions. Cheers.

22/4/2023 05:08:07 pm

Ok, so I put longer screws through the motor mount and into the motor with blue threadlocker.

I absolutely bashed this again and the motor screws held tight and didn't move.

However, After many back and forward flips with bad landings, cartwheels, huge airs and about 8 foot air off a vert ramp and landing on the front bumper the gears are grinding and sounding like an old tractor.

I haven't pulled it apart yet but I've added up the cost and it's too difficult to buy all the parts within Australia and on banggood so I might just buy another HBX 16889a Pro(3rd one). Or I might look for something more durable if anyone has any suggestions?

I really do like this truggy but I do push it to its limits.

I suspect if I get a better known brand name the parts will be more expensive?

Thanks in advance and look forward to thoughts or suggestions you guys have.
Cheers,
AussieRC.

28/4/2023 08:36:32 am

Hey AussieRC,
I don't think there is much to change really, it will not be the entire drivetrain. For that to find out, you will need to disassemble and inspect. Also, if you take the motor out, check if it rotates free of contact. If not, your screws might be too long, or it has deformed. But both is less likely. It sounds rather like gear crunch to me, one of the main gears on the diffs.
Also, check if your plastic centerline has snapped or deformed (the one separating motor side and battery side), which basically prevents gear crunch in case of chassis compression.
About the durability - yes, the higher brands will have more expensive parts. However, I highly doubt that they are more durable, according to the internet reviews about the 16889. I once had a Traxxas Slash 1:16,which was known to be "invincible", but I was disappointed in terms of durability, compared to the HBX. If you still decide to buy yet another for the parts, consider the MJX Hyper Go 16208. It is a copy of the 16889, but with bigger motor and 3S capable and more durable body. So a little faster even.
Best
Maxim

6/5/2023 12:41:54 pm

Hi MAXIM,
Thank you for your help. I took it apart and removed the differential and could hear it grinding inside(planetary/sun/satellite gear or whatever each manufacturer calls them) so I swapped over a working differential and the problem has gone. I checked and there was no other damage to the pinion gear, spur gear or the centre driveshaft gear that meshes with the outer gear of the differential. I will order another one or two as a backup.

I like the MJX Hyper Go 16208 as you suggested but will research it more.

I have learned allot on this site and appreciate everyone's help. It would be good if this site was using an open source forum structure so we could upload photo's and have more detailed instructions. For example, I would like to post online pictures and modifications of the HBX 16889a Pro to make it more durable.

I have learned from people on this site and the author, who does an amazing review and tips for so many rc car models.

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