LIGHTWEIGHT 5" RACER WITH 20MM X 20MM XJB F428 STACK - PART 1: COMPONENTS OVERVIEW

This year I have decided to try racing with Multi GP in my local NZ chapter and rather than using my trusty but heavy Martian II, I will be building a new 5" lightweight racer. I've decided to break this into 3 parts to cover in detail what is going on:
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1. Parts choice and reasoning
2. The build
3. First flight and performance

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​Build objective

I find with a new build that sticking with a clear primary objective will help you better choose your compoents. My objective for this build was lightweight and durable, built specifically for multi GP racing rather than a jack of all trades. Durability includes reliability since gear failure is probably the most disappointing way to DNF based on my days racing RC cars.

​Parts choice and justification

GLRC XJB F428 - TX20 - ELF F4 Flight Control System - As soon as it was announced I new this would be perfect for the floss 2 frame I'd already pre-ordered. ​




Why did I choose this:

• On paper it can handle enough current for what I am targeting (28a x 4 or 35a x 4 burst),
• It is supremely lightweight (16g including camera)
• All of the components are matched without need for extra BECs etc. I like how the FC connects to the ESC with pins rather than wires
• The small 20 x 20 size will make for a very tidy build
• Micro CCD camera included that has comparable performance to a swift or arrow micro
• Cheap! ($90 for everything at time of writing - FC, ESC, VTX, Camera)

​My only concerns are: will the VTX signal be clean enough for group racing? Are the ESC VBAT pads too small for a suitable wire size (16AWG)? Can this actually push 2205 or will it go up in flames or less spectacular blue smoke?

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Hyperlite Floss 2 5" frame - The only issue I had in choosing this one was to decide between this and RCAddicts newly designed Mode 2 Ghost frame. Very much neck and neck but the floss 2 was available locally with immediate delivery. ​
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Why I chose:

• Lightweight (66g)
• Skinny replaceble arms that allow good airflow for unloading the propellers
• Top mount battery. This costs about 15g over the floss 1 or mode 2 ghost but personally I like the feel of a battery on top
• Cheap! ($48 at time of writing)

​More of an observation than a requirement but the frame is also simple, easy to build and service.

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RACEDAYQUADS BADASS 2205 2450KV NAKED BOTTOM RACING MOTORS - I always knew I wanted a mid kV 2205 motor for this build to stay light. I looked at the various returner r2 variants and decided the raceday quads were perfect due to the 7075 aluminium. Notable mention to CATALYST MACHINEWORKS FREEDOM 2205 MOTOR and Returner R2 Ghost Edition 2205 2555kv. 

Why I chose:

• Lightweight (approx 25g each depending on wire length)
• Mid kV (2450 kV)
• Brother hobby quality
• Strong 7075 aluminium
• Cheap! ($13.50 each at time of writing and only $10 posted to NZ)

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DALPROP T5045C Cyclone 5 Inch 3 Blade Propeller Props are of course a personal choice but I'll be starting with my favourite brand Dal prop. I chose not to start with the Cyclone 2 5046 to try keep the current draw down a little. ​
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​Why I chose:

• Well balanced
• Legendary tough Dalprop polycarbonate
• Easily available
• Perdictable power delivery

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